TimW
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Posts posted by TimW
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Great to get so much feedback! Thanks!
5 hours ago, BlueB said:I see exactely 0 reasons for somone that tall to ride a 145cm carving board...
I have to agree on this one
15 hours ago, lonbordin said:It's interesting... I enjoy riding it but I don't trust it. Way too easy to overpower.
I had the same with the shorter boards, when my riding developed they became too easy to overpower, whenever there was a softer spot I would lose it. Over 20 years ago though, with a modern board built to my weight and liking it should be better.
But all the responses convinced me that I should add a shorter board to my quiver. Not a 145
, but consensus seems on a 160ish, 145-150 EE board as a turny board for busy days.
Currently thinking along the lines of a 22cm wide, lowish camber, metal board. This should keep things a bit calm. Of course a high camber carbon pogostick is also fun but I don't see myself riding that all day and keeping up with it.
Most of you seem to have quite narrow short boards. If my memory serves me well I quite liked the little more width that the asyms had. Bigger feet might be a factor there.
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I'd like to get your opinion on short boards for hardboot carving. 'race style' carving, loading that edge. Do short boards work for you? And if so, how short?
The reason for asking is that I built the board below for my daughter. 145x24.4 cm, 115 eff.edge. Somehow this board appeals to me, I feel like building this board with proper stiffness and putting my plates on it. My sane mind tells me this is ridiculous.
But it does trigger me to try something different. Typically I like long effective edge, stable boards, so let's go the opposite way.
So what's the shortest that worked for you? and for reference, how tall are you?
For me, my F2 Beamer 162 felt too short, Nidecker extreme 163 felt OK ( longer eff. edge), everything after that was >170 and that felt much better. 191cm tall.
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Lucky you that you just dislike the slomo
. I also dislike the overdone body dragging. When hands start digging a trench it is too much for me. Nothing against EC (e.g. Jacques Rilliet makes it look great IMO), but some overdo it.
Edit: Guess it is also the slomo that makes the body dragging stand out more, think it would look better to me without slomo.
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@Jack Mmy reasoning was the same, although I am not actually sure what hardness level I like. I never got to installing a spring system on the Deeluxe, so my options were walk mode or locked, 2 pretty extreme options. Pretty sure I will like a bit more of support. Laterally I am sure I like decent stiffness at higher binding angles, but with Intec a bit softer shell should be good.
But nowadays the only option is pretty much to buy some boots and hope you like them. Glad I am not on too tight a budget anymore.
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Just ordered the XC12 boots. Thanks for the advice!
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Thanks @lonbordin and @SunSurfer, excellent reference info on sizing!
Think I will go for the UPZ XC12. Not interested in punching out a 312 shell to become a 324, so I will order a 324 then.
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@teachso you are in a 312mm shell?
@lonbordin saw that you are also in a 312 shell with 290 (cm???)feet. What would you say for 295? 324 shell?
295 is on the upper end for the shell according to (all of their) their size chart(s), from that I would guess it is a pretty safe choice:
Anyone with feedback on the liners? Should I count on having to get new ones?
@SunSurferthanks for the compliment!
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Thanks for the feedback guys!
@SunSurfer how is the sizing on the UPZ boots? I saw EC12 and RC12 for 500 euro in a webshop, but noticed that they recommend to go up .5 to 1 size (european) from your shoe size. If I follow mondopoint I need to go 1 size down from my shoe size.
I understood that the liners UPZ has no (flo liners) are better than the old ones, can anybody confirm?
@lonbordin I am 6'3 / 1.91 and 80kg/180lbs. Your experience does not sound too good for the new Deeluxe buckles, thanks for that input!
@barryjHow do the 700 compare to 325s? Did you notice much difference from the different design while riding?
@slaposI'll pass on the S5's, I would have .5 a finger then, a bit too much of a performance fit for me. I like comfort! Just overdoing it a bit on my current boots
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Looking to buy new hardboots, but since we are spoilt for options nowadays, I'd like to get your opinions.
Currently I have Deeluxe LeMans, 2003ish, with Intec. Ride them in walk mode. This is OK for me, but there is certainly room for improvement. I use Technica ski boot liners in them. Preferred them over the (non-TF) wrap liners. Boots are mondo 30, my feet are ~295, pretty sure a size smaller shell would be OK. Generally not that critical on boots, my feet seem to be easy going.
Small video to give you an impression of my riding (best quality I have, not really into GoPros and such
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List of options:
Deeluxe 325 / 425: Well I know these, probably would buy just the shell and custom liners (and a spring mech.). Are the TF liners much better/different than the normal ones?
Deeluxe 700: A bit softer shell as I understand? How do these compare to the 325? Is the asym cuff good or bad?
UPC RC12 / XC12 / EC 12: With the heel position, will there be any fitting issues on a large TD2 and large F2 titanium (mondo 295)? How do the compare to the deeluxe? XC12 or EC12 with the long spring box seems to be the better option for me (being used to riding walk mode)? The swoard EC12 package does not seem to bad a deal with additional springs and tongues.
UPZ AT8: Don't seem to be very popular. Worth considering to make the choice a bit more complicated?
Mountain Slope: by far the most expensive option since I would also need new bindings. Also worried on side to side flex. Hated the side to side flexibility of Burton reactor / burton race plate combo, at the time I put a steel pin through the heel of the boot with hooks on the binding to eliminate flex and that was a huge improvement to me. So I don't really see a reason to go MS.
Please let me know your thoughts, feedback much appreciated.
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9 hours ago, JRAZZ said:
Does this make any sense?
Well, you are a hardbooter converted to softboots, so you do not make sense to us anyway!
Anyway, I have Northwave Domain (w Ride el Hefe) for softboots. Plenty stiff for me, I'd say stiffer than me Deeluxe LeMans fore/aft, more flex sideways (vs. Intec!). But in your reasoning, I agree there is a difference between stiffness and supportiveness. The hardboots feel more supportive to me.
Boot length is similar, but on the softboots this is right at the sole, on the hardboots it is much higher up. Only at the forward lean mech. the hardboots is longer, but there the highback would be on the sb. (Mondo 30)
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I'd guess it is not loss of tension, but the boot and tonque being flexed too much and the tongue pushing the buckle open. If you (almost) fold a curved part like the tongue, it will flatten out sideways. This will make it push against the buckle.
If you twist the tonque to the inside before you buckle your boot (away from the buckle) this may help.
But the real solution (if the cause is over flexing) is a stiffer spring/less forward lean on the boot.
BTW my lemans boot sometimes opens as well on some days, other days I have no issues. I twist the tonque when this happens, but it will move back slowly while riding.
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5 hours ago, barryj said:
Great info guys! Thanks!!
Not sure how I could overflex the boot running cranked down Red long springs but my rear foot BTS forward lean was a little aggressive also. Also the heel buckle is fully extended/unscrewed to it's limit
Tonight I've switched the long Red top springs to Long Blue top springs........so all blue BTS and backed off the forward lean about 1/3.......I was making these changes + lowering my TD3 cant ring from 6 to 3 to get more centered over the Thirst SF.
Today was 1st day with running 3/3 and it was another day of improvement
.....except for buckle blowing open repeatedly! 
I'll ride tomorrow and we will see if any of this helps or worsens the buckle issue!
Running less heel lift on your rear boot will probably result in you flexing your boot more. This may well worsen the buckle issue. If you stick to the 6deg cant and put your cuff more upright, your body position should stay similar, but with less rear ankle flex, and hopefully less unbuckling.
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1 hour ago, FelixD said:
Does that mean you are using walk mode all the time even riding? I did feel that forward lean mechanism of Deeluxe 425 limited my forward movement. Thank you
Yes, front boot in walk mode, rear boot with the knob turned 90deg (which gives free forward flex, but limits how far upright it can go).
The Deeluxe forward lean mechanism fully locks the boot, which most people consider (far) too stiff. Therefore most replace the it with a spring mechanism, like Bomber's BTS.
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I assume it refers to the forward lean setting on the deeluxe.
Felix, do not set it in the most upright position. Not straighter up than the middle setting. You can also try walk mode(which I use myself). Some will argue that walk mode can be dangerous for your ankles, I disagree, the forward lean mechanism limits forward lean to the most forward fixed setting, also in walk mode.
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11 hours ago, Dex said:
Are all carve boards too thin in the middle to even do a straight back foot?
What width would be necessary on a directional board for such a stance? I'm not saying I definitely need to stand like that in the end. I do on freestyle boards.
This is actually a separate question from the hardboot or not question. You can ride any board with hardboots. Hardboots are similar length as softboots, so the angles you can ride are similar.
On a narrow carve board it does not make sense to ride a 0° angle on the back foot. If you want to ride 0°, it is not the right board for you. Only buy a narrow board if you want to make better, deeper, more satisfying, great looking, mind blowing carved turns. If you find out that you belong to this mentally deranged fringe of the snowboarding population, you will want to ride with a forward stance, and zero overhang.
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I cannot comment much on the fitting since I never seem to have issues with that myself, but hardboots are definitely different in supporting and holding your foot, so it may be the solution for you.
For the riding you do hardboots are definitely suitable. There is an all mountain section on this forum for a reason, and hardboots also work in powder. I bought some softboots a few years ago but I have not decided yet if I like hardboots or softboots better in powder.
Problem is that it is a bit hard to properly try hardboots without spending. In most European countries hardboots were big in the 90's, and you regularly see them offered cheap in second hand online marketplaces. But those normally have crappy worn out liners which will not improve the experience, so keep that in mind if going this route to give it a try.
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You guys are evil, a little more consideration for those of us who do not get any riding this year because of covid would be appreciated. Just photos of iced bumpy runs or unrideable slush please.
Just kidding. Have fun guys and put in a few extra runs to compensate for the ones I am missing. And keep those photos coming!
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When it becomes harder to make it turn in soft snow.
If a board is (too) soft, it is fine on hard snow, but you have to be careful onsoft snow not to turn too tight/go over the nose.
When the stiffness is right, you can hard charge on both soft and hard, and the turn radius is not too much affected by snow conditions.
When a board is too stiff, it is hard to bend the nose in soft snow and it tends to straighten out and not turn. (Which can be compensated by hard work)
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My sb bindings have inward canted footbeds. Two options provided.
Toe/heel lift is replaced by the adjustable highback, although that only affects heelside.
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Note that intec is stiff laterally whereas bails allow lateral flex. Different lateral stiffness may have some weird effects. The sidewinder's flexibility will mask the difference a bit, but I'd keep both bindings the same.
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Can't you just remove or cut the lower spring if you want the boot more upright with the ACSS?
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I'd suggest first practice scrubbing speed on that gentle slope that you are comfortable on. Unweigh on transitions, angulate and push in the turns to tighten those turns to loose speed.
When you get more and more aggressive you will get to the point that between series of turns, you will have to let the board run to gain speed. Or better, move to a steeper slope.
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For intec surely the heel takes most load as it takes all the side to side bending moment. The toe will only take vertical load.
For bails it will be more evenly distributed.
Cant & lift will put the bolts at an angle on F2s, which will unevenly load the t-nuts, so for sure check them if running lift/cant
Pricy t-nut btw
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10 minutes ago, SunSurfer said:
Heel pain can be a problem with the conventional placement of the cables on the outside of the heel. Personal experience of swapping the heels so that the cable route is on the inside made my boots comfortable
Removing the lower part of the cable housing also works for that. You can also replace the cable with dyneema rope, once did that as emergency repair and used it for years.
.....except for buckle blowing open repeatedly! 
I'll ride tomorrow and we will see if any of this helps or worsens the buckle issue!
Do short boards work for carving hard?
in Carving Central
Posted
@Corey nice vid! I can understand that Bruce and Sean were a bit hesitant, as it changes the character a bit, but I also think I will like the lower angles more.
@lowriderI have been thinking about a skwal but doubt I will like it. So it will not get priority, building is time consuming and I have a few others planned. Maybe if I bump into a used one.