pauleleven

All due respect, why would you want to go with either a board too soft or too stiff for you? Long and short SCR Is hugely dependant on your riding preference: Narrow or steep terrain? Want to do aerobic exercise and carve intensely? Go with a SL board, less than 170 Good calm even and wide slopes? Prefer to cruise more? GS board more than 170 Then you'd look at your weight range, which correlates with the length, off the shelf boards the longer the stiffer, take SG: 175 is women GS, 180 is strongwoman or lighter men GS, 185 is stronger men GS, and Ester Ledecka. If you think your technique is good, you can touch your butt on the heel side, and you have good quads, sure go with a board above your weight range. Otherwise go with one in your weight range Do not go below, it won't be able to handle speed as well. Custom makers are great, cuz they can make it for your weight, but tell them if you have good quads and carve intensely for a stiffer board than just your weight. Damp race style boards (Kessler Oxess SG and Nobile, from experience) add a lot of anti-vibration material, Oxess and Nobile are experimenting with Ptex layers, that will dampen the wobble you feel, these technology has come quite some way. Titanal is pretty much known for ice qualities, doesn't make a board stiffer because they shave down the core a bit to have the same flex, if you have ice in the local resort definitely go with a Titanal board. Longer boards almost always ride like a stable long board, unless: it's badly constructed and is not stable; Technique needs work; Designed with short SCR. But with any of the modern European raceboard, they are more than stable enough even in the SL variation. I will say, however, most people would definitely prefer longer GS boards, because carving GS turns on a SL board relies heavily on the quads, going full tilt with a SL board is also super tiring due to the frequent edge change... GS boards can always ridden into a small radius, just angulate more (and make sure no bootouts) My 0.02 Also, square cut tails typically have an aluminum bar, which makes the tail more durable over time, that's about the only thing

Nope, I didn't go to France, went up to Davos with my school (it was cheap)

Custom Foam liners from Heierling in Switzerland (Davos). These guys have a lot of fitting experience (100+ years of it), we first started doing foot analysis, sure there are those pressure plates from Sidas and such, but they had a large one you walk on in order to determine your problems in motion. Then they were able to decide what cant to add to the footbed once it's formed. They also have laser alignment to check if the knees bend in linen or not, to decide if we'd wanna add boot canting. Did the footbed, checked my shell (a bit small), went and spread the lower half to create more volume around the ankle, then it's the standard-ish procedure of injecting foam. Typically shops would do one boot at a time, at a raised platform because only skiers get it, but these guys have a ton of experience with snowboard racers, so they had me stand on my board and move in a circular motion while the foam flows and sets, that is rare at bootfitters.... In the end costed a fortune, but absolutely worth it because that afternoon was the most fun I've ever had snowboarding, going from the stock flo liner in UPZ to this was like going from soft to hard in the beginning, the response was just amazing! They fit for a long list of racers, including our very own @nevingalmarini No wonder these racers can ride so hard!

Knee deep powder gives me problems even with unlocked UPZ I would need to specifically adjust my bindings again to be more comfortable getting more weight in the back, but at that point might as well put bindings on a wide pow board..... Be safe out there!

I ride a scarily similar setting to @SunSurfer at 60 60 48cm, only toe and heel no cants. I would say, from personal experience, that outward canting is not needed until front is ~65, I have found no need for back can't as well, because I don't ride with a plate bad my knees come together a bit when the board is bent. But yeah, one of the best things you could do is adjust bootcant first, then do the angles, whatever is comfortable always works best. Also, on faster boards I ride my front foot with more forward lean, which puts my front knee out of the centre when referencing Beckman's fitting guide, but it helps me stay ahead of the board.

What sugar daddy?

I should try those, but I also need money to buy a bazillion more alpine boards.....

With ya cute Driver-X and stuff yea? Asian Technical Riding has WAY TOO MUCH hype in it..... Not worth it for me... There are absolutely quite some good riders, but it would seem hobbyists are just learning the wrong thing from them, if they get access to a decent rider even.

The amount of recognition softboot receives is unparalleled, and of course you being a hardbooter would only know local hardbooters... But seriously, a bunch of the best carving riders do not ride hard at all. A lot of the hobbiests having 45 front is not productive as it sometimes has significant boot-in, losing leverage. If you consider a good hardboot rider, who is comfortable with "the norm," there is no reason that the lowest angle possible is uncomfortable. (If they did ride hard-boot, they would opt for lower angles as opposed to boot-in options of simply, 45 for the sake of it) I never got that feeling with the Soul. I was going to say they still did that, but after quick checking of BC-Stream's website and Gray's, they have since abandoned the soft-nose design, which I think used to limit speed greatly. Soul on the other hand, feels like one of those high-speed boards, which means (and felt like) a uniform flex gradient. Carve-Trick-Carve on the other hand tho, that's just pure f***ing talent, respect!

Most of the softboot riders in Asia do not have experiernce with hardboot. Softboot carving is just marketed remarkably well through sponsored riders and stuff. The slopes in Japan are not the steepest nor are the the longest (with soft snow), softboot kinda makes sense given what's available. As far as spins and tricks are concerned, they are absolutely amazing at those during carving, however most of the good carving freestyle riders I see ride angles ~27 21 or less for more power into the ollie. A few years ago they had this weird innovation where they would make the front of the board super soft comparing to the rest of the board, so it bends in a J shape. It would appear that they've since abandoned it...

I'm bad at calculators

For North American weights you always want either the Ti or Type R, which is comparable to Kessler Cross in the same length The standard Desperado will probably buckle.... Also doesn't do well on ice too much.

Definitely rode a stock K162, possibly this year's B stock with 0.4mm titanal rather than older 0.3, it's such a powerful board that you just have to be more powerful.... K168's geometry is more friendly, from what I've been gathering here on the forum. I have 175 FC from Sg and it is a lot of fun, doesn't do well on ice but heck I love the flex (~75kg geared). Are you saying 157 race only does well in soft conditions? Could it under your weight range?

Sorry, I was regarding mainly about the race sidecut Customs are nice for long feet, I have small asian feet so no problem for me

Rode K162 a couple weeks ago, it wants to go faster significantly more than SG FC and Nobile, @daveo had previously said that anything except K168 feels murder-y Force 165 has width of 252, soul 159xt is 275, I'd imagine the new soul xts have width of 270+, force xt maybe 260-270 for BX riding (faster edge flip). That's kinda the different school of thought on carving tho.... SG's way feels like, do less, and if you want a tighter turn for more carving just angulate more. Such a racing idea..... us lax carvers need custom shit while he rides everything, everywhere.....

Nein Daveo, nein.....

Rode soul Titan when it first came out last year, that thing is a funcarving beast without the stiffness and need for speed of a force, yet super stable still... Force V17 they don't even use in BX much... Vaultier uses V15, the sidecut with that stiffness will make it an extreme bomber.....

Me too Also on RCR Some may say rc8 or 10 would be too soft, but there are also soft ski boots as well Still works in Alpine bindings, but need to adjust as the toe piece is lower. It's also a tad bit softer on the bottom than stock bottom pieces When skiing you wanna make sure both boots have the same forward lean and preferably same cant(or neutral)

Thicc with two Cs

I have no such cousin

Who dat?

Wtf I can't afford maotai, friggin thing is like 300 dollars a bottle

Well, I'm poor, don't have a plate, never even touched a vist plate so I wouldn't know

Oh Daveo devao, if the plate is top-bottom symmetrical, and the plastic is threaded on both sides, then you can flip it

yes way