pauleleven

you wana go?

Go away daveo NERD!

Holy shit, guess Union only works for us smaller guys...... You need something with a metal frame and disk, bolted dead on, only one I can think of is SP binding, probably the top of the line one Slab One, full aluminum construction.

Given Northwave boots, Union Force and Atlas both work pretty well with my northwaves. I think both are offered in a large, Atlas is a bit stiffer, bootbed also has inward can't.

Ouch mein daveo, ouch... Think about the direction your chest is facing, say your bindings are at 55. When your chest faces more than 55, you're in the plus position. When your chest faces less than 55, you're in minus.

Didn't see included my photos too... I'm khaki pants, last year on softboot I definitely brought my knee in quite a bit, not great. This year going race technique and hardboot, more powerful now. So this knee in thing, the riders are immitation older Alpine styles, but old Alpine styles had hardboot to support the knee..... In any case, most people who ride like this on softboot a have bad heelsides, because there is no support for the back cutting point.

Season 5, videos on SG163, I see a lot of Sigi in you When I was talking with Sigi and Justin, the general sense is minus on heel, plus on toe, but Sigi added that he enters heel on minus and exit on plus(both within 10 degrees from binding angle), transition is silent, no twisting. I'm a strong advocate for minus heel, it is immensely powerful and stable, converted many softboot friends into speed-carvers, also essential for race style. My next obstacle will be the steeps......

This surprises me a bit, it would seem more people are riding no cant nowadays, I'm assuming angles 50+

That is very very true, until you do this Some idiots teach this, deliberately bringing in the knees, which wrecks havoc because it is not on the same plane as the ankle and knee. The amount of information regarding setup is... Scarse and in many cases inaccurate, people are set up to fail.

Heck yea, super comfortable and adjustable bindings, good rider culture, what they're doing for Asia-specific binding may not be too great (a few more carbon bindings for just the asian market), but I do think the bindings are well researched and designed.

Except, you are literally the only one with that binding.

Nah, I think I will go 155 next year

I have a flying v 152, mind you I mean, WE DON'T LIKE BURTON

No one in China knows about the importance of canting, they just luckily have bindings (flow, union) that have built-in cants. Also, no one knows about Driver-X........ it's sad, watching people ruining their knees

no daveo, we don't like Burton, remember?

However, people on this forum love a few boards that are just a dream, some examples Thirst Superconductor, Kessler 168, SG 170, kind of like a magical board that fits in many conditions, which is worth starting with even as a beginner and keep until it breaks. hey @daveo, care to elaborate?

Longest true slalom board I know is the Nobile 166, for SL it'll be everything below that. K168, SG 170 those are weird freecarve boards and one of a kind per brand, otherwise everything follows the progression of: 166- for SL board, longer the stiffer 171+ for GS, longer the stiffer If you're starting out, get like an used slalom board to get a feel for it, stuff like old F2 Speedsters and stuff, get one in your weight range ish. Once you get some time on snow and have a decent technique and preferred style, then choose a new board. Generally people like GS boards for free-ride, SL board is constantly turning and quite an aerobic exercise, but SL is always easier to learn with. Then each manufacturer makes boards a bit different, like Kessler SL and GS boards always want to go faster and kill you, not great for a beginner; SGs are really solid as far as balance goes; same can be said for Goltes, Nobile, Some Oxess, and the NA board makers.

Those guys are weird, riding 45 30 and wrecking the back knee, lots of beginners also believe in a big stand width, big splay, and stiffest board and binding they can find, but nothing on the stiffness of the boot...... COME ON Like, I talk to softie carvers in China about Driver X and they're like HUH???????? With BX Setup I would imagine stiff binding, stiff boots and low angles are priority rather than an Alpine setup, which is just not as powerful or ergonomic pushing out with the backfoot. So Driver X and a carbon binding makes sense.

You've been riding some older boards, I'm guessing you will spend anywhere between 10-30 days on this board before you hit the weight threshold as you put more power into it, but you may never hit it depending on your riding style, you should be fine. Doesn't have to be Vist, any of the Vist Types would work. (FG Plate from @slapos), but again you may never need it.

He doesn't like conglomerates, C3 is pretty close to one lol. They do have amazing marketing tho, I'd always choose Capita comparing to a Burton.... Also love my Union bindings

See if they could buff up the flex a little bit for your weight, you'd be a little bit on the end of the spectrum. It's a reputable board maker and fits your requirement really well tho. Another option is to add a vist plate to it, which will buff the flex a bit, but I would say ride it naked until you are absolutely bending the S*** out of it before going with a plate.

Yes, however it will be very hard to establish a factory and have it NOT Eco-Friendly in the EU nowadays. One guy I know in the industry is pissed at the Mothership because the long-term sustainability (after ~30 years) is not taken into account, but he's an ex-hippie from California living in Switzerland, so lol. Great guy tho, went on ranting about politicians erecting this monstrosity of a factory to line their pockets and win re-elections....

Turny skateboards are fun, played with a Surfy skateboard (YOW) for the summer and that just completely opened up my midsection as far as range of movement goes, good and precise utilization now in my core which helps so much with angulation. I would say LDP is much different tho, cuz it's just like, hip movement, but the same board can be used for amazing push&carve experiences, with almost the same technique as a snowboard.

13 m range is gonna be hard to find an off the shelf board in your weight, I'd say go custom, can even ask for a long board at 180+ with that added stability, while having the smaller sidecut, and have it in your weight.

Nobile and Kessler lined up with the widest point together The Nobile 166 is effectively a K162 in snow cutting abilities, fun board tho