jburk

Sold pending funds...

I have a set of FinTec heels, new last season and they've had about 25 days of use, but they also have several miles of Mt Hood Meadows parking lot on them as well. I opened them up in mid-September for an inspection, cable, internals, and lubrication all looked good. Includes a set of spare cables, handles, and plugs (note the plastic bag contains 4 handles and the plugs). Replaced the stock phillips with M5 bolts. $90 + shipping, CONUS and Paypal only.

I have a complete BoilerPlate 2nd board kit for sale, comes with 6-, 3-, and 0-degree cants, disks, rings, shorter hardware for the BP version. Everything that was shipped when you bought the kit from the Bomber store, plus a bonus 3rd disk. $100 + shipping, CONUS and Paypal only

What’s the minimum cant adjustment that can done with F2 bindings? Are the wedges thin enough that you stack several up if needed, but can go with a single wedge for just 1-1.5 degree cant? I had a set of F2 bindings from the mid-90’s, and the cant wedges were so thick that it was an all or nothing affair at ~5 degrees, this was back when everyone thought inboard cant was a good thing.

damn you. some things can never be unseen.

I ordered a Wax Wizard / Pro-Glide from SkiMD's website late on Friday (after business hours on the East coast), and it arrived in my mailbox in Oregon on Wednesday afternoon. Very fast shipping, nice... Tried it out, I think I'm going to be a convert from the hot iron. Uses way less wax, no worries about cooking the base by accident, and no scraping! That last bit is my favourite part.

Sort of related, I took one of my TD3 baseplates into a local anodizing shop today that I know has low minimums and doesn't mind doing small jobs to look into going this approach. The good news was that their minimum for a black anodizing job was $30, the plates were going to be $4.50 each to anodize, and they could turn it around within a week. The bad news was that after a couple of tests, they said that they thought the base plates are nickel-plated, and the plating would have to be stripped before it could be anodized. They knew most of the shops in town who do plating work that could have stripped off the nickel plating, but they also said that none of them would touch small jobs (apparently it's come up before, and anyone they've sent anywhere hasn't had any luck). So close, but no soup for me!

Thanks for that, exactly the feedback I'm looking for. Had a ski instructor who used to make us do a couple of (slow) runs with the buckles just tight enough to hold the clasps down, essentially unbuckled. It really drove the point home that you could get most of the way there with just the bottom of your feet, and sort of taught how to turn with minimal effort instead of muscling things around. "You can't turn the ski!! Only the ski can turn itself!" Would have been zen, except for the mid-Euro accent...

Went looking for that, couldn't find it, so I just started a new one: . Hope I don't cause too much duplication of info, or that I'm asking the same question that has been answered 9 times already. If so, feel free to heap scorn and derision on me.

There's been a few threads in the last year or two relating to this, some of these have been "liner A vs liner B" type of threads. Rather than discussing the pros and cons of the various liners (which might not be that useful to any one person since everyone's foot is different), I'd like to take more of a poll among those that have used an Intuition liner in a UPZ boot. I'm assuming that anyone using a UPZ boot has a foot at least a little bit similar to mine (narrow heels and ankles, wider forefoot). I'd appreciate if you'd limit the responses to liners that went into a UPZ boot; telling me what liners work (or didn't) in a Deelux or Raichle won't help me choose a liner for a UPZ RC-10. which liner did you end up choosing? were there any that you tried and decided against, and is so, what was it that you didn't like? were you looking to change the stiffness of the boot with the stock liner, or just get a better fit? do you prefer more of a race fit, or something a bit more relaxed? did you also use an aftermarket footbed, or did the liner obviate the need for one? For myself, since I'm pretty happy with the current stiffness of the RC-10, seem to have decent heel hold, but find that it feels like the whole liner squirms around in the shell, I think I'd be better off with either the Alpine, ProWrap, Luxury, or Dreamliner. If anyone's tried any one of those, I'd be interested in their impressions. For what it's worth, the "squirming" seems to get worse with temperature, not too bad when it's cold, and on warm days it's OK early in the day, but gets progressively worse as the day warms up. For the first few days I thought it was just the thermo liner adjusting to my foot, but it never got any better, even after 20 days. I measured my foot to 26.3 and wear an MP26, and seem to have about 1-1/2 finger shell fit (def can't get 2 fingers behind the heel).

My riding style was more about the length of time to complete a turn and the timing between the apexes, used to link turns together quickly. Can be done at any speed; I’m riding slower these days than I used to, but still try to turn as often. The short sidecut radii (8.5-10.5) should be a good match for where I ride most at Mt Hood Meadows, narrower runs that can get crowded at times. Can hardly wait to get on this new board. It will be very difficult to resist the temptation to take it out opening day, but think I’ll take my F2 as a rock board. Would hate to trash the new Donek the first day I ride it, can always switch to it later in the day if coverages is good enough.

Yup, those are the dimensions I was looking for. Big sweeping GS-style turns are not really my thing, my wife says it's like I have ADD on a board, can't keep turning in the same direction for more than a second or two. Sean had suggested an MK or a Proteus, but I said I didn't want to work that hard all day long. Before my long break from riding, I rode my asyms more in the style of (but not with as much style as) the rider in the Bomber jacket at around 2:45 in this vid: https://youtu.be/BhShRKlz5lQ?t=2m42s, my goal is get back to riding this way on my equipment from this century. Who is this guy, is it Fin? Whoever, he can certainly crank out the turns.

Just arrived this morning from Donek, still has that new-car smell, a Freecarve 167 with the new "secret" construction. Definitely going to be a welcome step up from my '03 F2 Silberpfeil, and a world away from my two mid-90's asyms, F2 Beamer Race and a Burton Asym Air (which that I was still riding until Jan/Feb 2017).

Closing this out, found two 0-degree disks.

Yes, that price was for board, bindings and h/w. Looks like UPS and USPS are $50 and $47 to ship to your zipcode in Winhall, VT (respectively). I'd likely just go UPS, as it's closer to me, but charge you the $47. 125 + 47 = $172 If it sounds good, my paypal info is: john.d.burk@gmail.com I haven't sold anything on BOL, but you can check my seller feedback on ArcheryTalk, used to be very active over there . http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/itrader.php?u=227330 bah, just realized that you can't view my feedback unless you have an account on AT, here' s screenshot if you don't feel like going through the bother of creating an account just to see my ratings.

Here you go. Base is covered in storage wax, but there's no major gouges, seem to recall there are no real minor ones either. A small bit of rust on the edges up by the nose, seems to be about it. Couple of small nicks to the topsheet at the edges, bit of rash on the nose, minor scrapes at the tail. Have all the mounting h/w for the plates. How does $125 + shipping sound? Tempted to keep it for a powder board, but I'm trying to unlearn my asym riding habits, so it's probably better that I sell it.

I have a Burton Asym Air 64 in good condition, goofy, have the race plates with the rear cant. Can send pix if you're interested. (double-posting my response here in the WTB section, figure the thread in "for sale" might get dropped by the mods)

I have a Burton Asym Air 64 in good condition, goofy, have the race plates with the rear cant. Can send pix if you're interested.

Would like to get in on this, although can’t commit until February, business travel’s a fact of (my) life.

Looking for a 0-degree disk for TD3's, either standard or BP version. Want to try a 0-degree on the rear foot and see how it works out, if it does I'll need to also score the alternate (BP vs std) version as well. UPZs seem to have enough boot ramp that I want to try no lift on the rear foot, and I run 0 cant on the rear anyways.

Moot point, posting for posterity: I received a prompt response from Sean @ donek to this same question: "We only really offer Carbonite these days. I don't think the two fight with each other though."

I figured it was like trying to decide between prosciutto and pancetta on a pizza; close but different, tasty either way. Has anyone seen the perf metal black graphic with the carbonium topsheet? I'm wondering if that topsheet material looks odd combined with the repeating pattern in the graphic...

OK. After 12-1/2 minutes of careful deliberation, contemplating not getting delivery from Coiler until early to mid-January, and finding most of the difference between the Donek Freecarve fiberglass and metalFC in the sofa cushions, I pulled the pin and placed an order for a 167cm Freecarve with the new secret construction. The downside is that it will be here early enough for it to stare at me for the next 4-6 weeks until the snow falls.

still see it updating from this side, these not working for you? Might be a DNS caching thing, wait 10 min and try again... http://forums.bomberonline.com/forum/31-want-to-buy/ http://forums.bomberonline.com/forum/6-for-sale/

At the risk of inciting a religious war based on manufacturer preference, I'd like to solicit some opinions on the pros and cons of each of these boards. I'm trying to decide which board to order for this year. Please don't give me Sean vs Bruce comparisons, based on the postings they both seem to be very personable and very good at their craft. Some background: 20+ years of skiing, then boarding since late 80's, hardbooting since early 90's until early 00's on mid-90's gear, started back up again last season on an '03 F2 Silberpfiel 168 (10.5m), UPZ RC-10's, and TD3 step-ins (that was an eye-opener). Ended the season at 53/50 for angles. Boot size is MP26, so overhang was not a problem, actually had to resort to "gilmour bias" due to not being able to center up with the TD3s and small UPZs I'm 5'8", 165 lbs, and a 47cm stance (maybe subject to change as I continue to adapt to the newer gear, used to ride 17" on the mid-90's gear). Rode a Burton Asym Air 64 and a F2 Beamer Race (also asym) back in the day fairly aggressively, the F2 specs show an 8.5/9.5m scr, and the Burton seemed about the same sidecut as the longer side of the Beamer. Almost all hardbooting was at Whistler/Blackcomb, and despite trying some boards back in the day with longer sidecuts (W/B has a lot of room to let it rip), I always preferred the smaller-radius boards. Also gravitated to SL/turny skis when I skied... Given that a lot of where I ride at Meadows @Mt Hood is relatively narrow and can get a tad crowded, even the 10.5 Silberpfeil felt like it wanted a bit too much room, and I always felt I was trying to drive it shorter than it liked. The Donek offerings being considered are the Freecarve in fiberglass, MetalFC, or the Freecarve with the new "Secret" sauce, all in the 167 length and 8.5-10.5m sidecut. As to the Coiler offerings, it looks like the Coiler Nirvana Balance would be a good match for me in a sub-170 length, wondering if Bruce could adapt the sidecut to something like 8.5/10.5/9.5 I've got enough in the cookie jar to order the Donek FC fiberglass version right now, could take another 6-8 weeks to save up the diff for either the MetalFC or the FC Secret. Which brings me to wonder about the Coiler Nirvana Balance; the price on the Coiler is awfully tempting, and with the CAD/USD exchange rates is almost $450 less than the upper end of the Donek price range. Trying to decide between the Coiler or Donek fiberglass FC at the lower end of the price range, or are the other 2 Donek offerings worth the extra $$? Realize that last question is entirely subjective, a lot of that comes down to how easily I can scratch up the extra $500.