st_lupo
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Posts posted by st_lupo
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9 hours ago, TLN said:
You broke front bails? o_O
Usually it's the rear, and way sooner than 7-8 season.I'll buy that. I broke a front bail this season too. It's just one of those years?
@Aracan: care to post a good photo of the fracture surface? would be interesting to compare to my incident. I'm thinking of just rotating my bindings out every 5 years now.
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1 hour ago, daveo said:
Nope. After a base grind, sure.
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20 hours ago, Corey said:
Another benefit of a slight base bevel: Less material removal to sharpen edges.
At a true theoretical zero degrees, in order to sharpen the bottom face of the edge you need to remove material from the entire width of the board. At even a small angle, you end up removing mostly steel when sharpening and barely touch the Ptex.
I tried 0.5 degrees base bevel and found it almost as frustrating as zero. 1 degree base and 88 side was a nice balance.
With all the bumps and curves that occur in the snow we ride on, I do question how much of this is placebo and how much is real. 1 degree of bevel across a steel edge amounts to a few thousandths of an inch of height difference from the base level while we ride over 1/4" ridges without noticing them.
Use the angles that make you feel the most confident and you'll probably ride better for it.
Wait... you guys sharpen the base bevel more than once?
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Don't know how it's changed since the 90's but if you are up for it, BC has (had?) some really fantastic glades to explore. Plus I bet Birds of Prey must be pretty epic for carving?
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On 3/13/2022 at 6:47 PM, SunSurfer said:
I happily wear my VPD knee pads uphill and downhill when riding my bike. Restriction of movement is minimal. The knee pads stay in place without needing any adjustment over 2+hr rides.
My Air VPD elbow pads are a different story altogether and need some trickery with Lycra arm warmers to stay in place.
There is a small gap between my UPZ boot tops and the VPD pads so I wouldn't use them for gate racing protection on the snowboard, proper shin guards would be a better option.
In my experience the RaceFace Indy elbow pads are awesome at staying in place and are more than enough protection for trail and park riding. They stay in place really well over multi-hour rides and are slim enough that I wear them under a wool shirt when snowboarding.
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I've got 0 deg base bevel on my Nirvanas and .5 deg on my other boards. 88 deg tunes on all of the sides. The base bevel is just a matter of preference, if your board isn't super catchy, you don't need it (ref the Nirvanas with early rise tips/tails). My Kessler has a .5 deg base bevel (I don't think it was necessary but it was already on when I got it used) and _maybe_ that has something to due with my impression that its handling is vague at slow speeds. If you tend to do jumps (especially rotational) and are not keeping the board on edge all the time you would probably benefit from some base bevel. Once you have a base bevel on, it isn't coming off without a base grind.
The sharper the side-tune the more it will need touching up and will impact longevity. 88deg on the side hits a good balance for my local riding conditions (generally firm to hard man-made snow) and I don't detune the tip/tail.
Just keep in mind that sharper edges are no replacement for board angulation!
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I'm 185lb and use the WC Booster straps (under the RC-10's black tongue). I am very satisfied with the performance. The way I think about the strap is not so much as adjusting the boot's flex but as changing the feeling of the "dead-band" between the bulk movement of the shin and the boot shell. For my style of riding I like a faster response, so I don't like a mushy dead-band, and I use the world-cup straps, which have a higher spring-rate. The trade-off is that the setup may feel twitchier and more sensitive to terrain variation. Softer straps are going to give you a softer dead-band for an equivalent initial tension. Ignoring the effect of increased shear force between the boot-liner and the back of the shell, boot flex is still determined by the springs/tongues.
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These ones: https://boosterstrap.com/
I love them too, and they shouldn't be too hard to find (and as a last resort you can get them off of Amazon).
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12 hours ago, slabber said:
Pics of your custom graphic? I'm looking for ideas...
You should check out the new board porn thread, where creativity abounds!
- Rockets
- Skulls/skeletons
- Flames
- Cartoons
- Car/motorcycle themes
- Old snowboard graphics
- Kids drawings
- Penis
- Cats
- Hamburgers
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5 hours ago, Odd Job said:
Ohhh the dude on imgur!!!
IS Paul Pot even a real person?! Brilliant!!!
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1 hour ago, Shred Gruumer said:
My f2 163 proto complements my Kessler 168 very nicely..
They feel the same as the build feel. Smooth, but the F2 163 turns tightly shorter. They both rail.. Easy transition when I switch back and forth during the day.. I can't tell if they are both Kessler or both F2..
I'm extremely glad I picked up the proto. It's stiffer but needs to be as you can push the crap out of it..
My new virus 166 is silly good as well..
Which do you like best in hard conditions, Virus or F2?
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20 hours ago, Jack M said:
Weird, just the other day I emailed Hansjuerg Kessler looking for a 175 women's GS for my athlete and he emailed right back with several options. He has been great to deal with on my two customs as well.
Same. My board specs came direct from Hansjuerg himself, for a board I bought used from a rental shop. Also when the board was damaged by a skier that nearly collided with me, Hansjuerg replied personally (after I sent photos) confirming that it was just superficial damage. The board has held together just fine despite considerable battle damage.
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Ha, I knee I had some detailed info about my K162 somewhere!
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2 hours ago, 1xsculler said:
Missed the humor on that one.
The character of Lee Ermy as the gunnery sergeant is a cultural touch-stone for a certain generation. Your very first post in this thread really evoked that persona in my head.
Just like riding in the trees; you focus on the spaces in between the trees and not the trees themselves if you want to survive. Focus on what works for you instead of what doesn't work. Then build out from there.
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I’LL BET YOU COULD SUCK A GOLFBALL THROUGH A GARDEN HOSE, BOB!
apologies if you haven’t seen Full Metal Jacket
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49 minutes ago, rst said:
freecarve board should be much comfortable than SL
Again, what does this mean? I love my K162 and only free carve with it. Buckets of grip, no problems completing turns, etc… What is it about a ‘free carve’ board (in this turn radius class) that makes it more comfortable or better for free carving? Are they more forgiving, but less dynamic?
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3 hours ago, BlueB said:
168 is a much nicer freecarving board than any SL. More edge, less taper and that 7-12 is not really distributed in straight progression. I think @johnasmohas measured it very precisely.
How does that effect the handling quality of the board in practical terms? I've only ridden the 162 and think it's the tits. Is the 168 even more 'the tits', and how so in ride-feel? I like the 162 since it is a very engaging/dynamic ride and once I swap my mindset over to that board mid-season I can't find any faults in it. For my next board I would love something that was as reliable and engaging as the 162 but with slightly longer legs, about 3/4 of the way between the 162 and the 180 (which might be too big for my hill).
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3 hours ago, snowburn said:
That's how you keep warm on the cold days.
Do you get carbon credits if you never unzip? Methane sequestering?
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5 minutes ago, slapos said:
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18 hours ago, west carven said:
howdy
I vote most annoying video ... sorry! ... just not my cup of tea ... (flavor) edit … ruins the beauty of carving ...
The multiple reverse-play segments overdoes it a bit, and dubstep can be… polarizing. Barry Manillow is generally more acceptable to a wider audience.
But cool riding regardless!
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2 hours ago, dredman said:
Don’t onesies reek when you take them off, especially after chile con carne especiale in the bar??? At least separate jackets/pants work as an over-pressure valve.
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I guess trying the 168 w/o plates will give you a bit of an impression on the 162, since all of the specs are ballparkish if I remember correctly.
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The best I have found so far are the Flylow Chemical pants. They are on the slightly shorter side of things (compared to SB specific pants) and they have been really durable so far. Earlier pants that I have used are Analog, Neff and Burton AK. The Analog (well built) and Neff (utter crap) pants were all too long in the legs for my size waist (and I am pretty tall) so the cuffs get all sliced up. The Burton AK (Cyclic) were decent pants but like most other pants don't hold up well to carving. The back pockets were a problem where after a couple of heel-side wipe-outs and the storm flap tore open. Now that back pocket zipper just auto opens all the time. The material also doesn't like dragging in the snow much so the knees started looking pretty ragged after a few years.
I got the Flylow pants at the start of this season and I'm really happy with them, with one caveat: they are the most breezy pants that I have had. While waterproofness is good, they have a ton of vents so a hard wind will find its way inside. This is fine for me since I normally run pretty hot when riding and I guess you can just layer up if you need to. The knees and cuffs have heavy cordura-like reinforcements which seem to scuff up just a little when the snow gets in the way of the knees, but it is holding up really well. The length is absolutely perfect. Long enough that you don't look like a gaper, short enough that you don't walk on your cuffs. They are a bit pricey if you get the current year's models, but I've been able to buy 1-2 year old items direct from Fly Low's website at big discounts.
I've also got a Flylow jacket that I've been using for the past 6 years and despite being made of relatively thin material, it has been holding up really well to lots of abuse.
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Can't comment on the Rev but I have a stock K162 and love it for hard conditions. 6'1", 188lbs and ride bomber-style freecarving. No problems getting a wide range of turn radii and shapes out of it, but hard-over and fully loaded up is where it is at. At really low speeds (catwalk, etc) I always think it feels slightly vague compared to my other boards but once the speed comes up and you sink into your stance it really impresses. Tight-tight turns are no problem (like hit-your-chin-with-your-knee tight). A generally centered stance works best (when transitioning from my early season boards to the Kessler I always spend a couple of days with my weight too far forwards and wind up oversteering/spinning out all the time. I also have the impression that the Kessler likes a bit of finesse at the start of each turn (especially toe-side for me). If I just man-handle the board as hard over as I can at each transition I wind up with some skidding. However if I use a fraction of a second to let the board settle into the turn before going hard-over, the board will cut through hard snow like a pavement saw. Speed control on steeps is very good. Durability has been excellent. For unfamiliar and steep terrain it is my goto board.
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PSA: Replace your F2 bails
in Carving Central
Posted
Any tips on where to get just the bails? I tried yyzcanuck and carvers and the only thing they had available were the entire toe/heel blocks. Needless to say, the difference between replacing 4 blocks vs just buying new bindings was pennies.