Alpinbogen

When I came off standard Burton bindings several years ago and went with TD2 step-ins, I instantly loved how much stiffer they were. I felt much more in control and didn't feel like I got thrown around in rough spots. The step-in's are so nice for our short eastern hills and give me piece of mind in security over toe bails. 90% of the time, I'm freecarving top to bottom and they are suited exceptionally well. On the occassions when I end up riding bumps or riding tight lines (non-carve usually) with skiier friends, a "little" more lateral flex would be nice. On binding options, I initially thought a TD3 sidewinder step-in would be great if such a version came out. But after seeing some of the threads and couple of Youtube vids showing just how much flex they have, I've lost interest in that idea. I fear they'd feel like I was back on those floppy Burton bindings (especially if were on toe bails). I'm inclined to think that just the little extra thickness from the newer TD3 elastomers would give just a hint more flex that would make them phenomenal for carving and all-around use. In any case, step-ins suit my riding best.

I have a handheld gps that gives speed in real time, but doesn't record, meaning you have to look at it on the fly. I ran several runs repeatedly one day with it. A green run was consistently 27 mph top-bottom, almost every time I looked down at the gps. Average parts of a blue were 35-37 mph. The steeper parts of the blue were faster of course, but I couldn't focus on the screen long enough to see the reading for fear of wiping out or flying into the trees. A black run was faster yet, and I couldn't begin to even glance at the screen. Made me realize how much concentration fast runs need.

My intec heels seem to have developed a fair amount of play in my TD2s, which have TD3 receivers. They're probably 5 years old and I've noticed the pins have alot of wobble. It isn't causing any real problems and my boots still seem locked in, but it's a little unnerving when I can shake my front leg on the chairlift and hear the loose connection rattling. Has anyone else had this and did it lead to any type of failure or binding release?

Haha, That's great! :lol: On rare occassion I still ride my '93-ish Burton Asym Air with 3-strap bindings and even older Burton Comp boots that are held together with layers of duct tape and a peculiar crust. It's my only soft boot setup. Given how rarely I ride in softboots, I just can't seem to justify getting a newer setup.

I upgraded my stock UPZ liners with Deeluxe Speed liners last year, and I'm only marginally happy with those. The UPZ's were thin, but were shaped with both hard and soft pieces that offered contoured support in themselves, which kept the liner where it needed to be in the boot. The Speed's are basically one big piece of foam that squoosh around too much. But they're thicker and therefore fit tighter in the hardboot shell, so that makes up for their slop to an extent. They're also taller than the stock UPZ liner, which is one thing I really do like, and maybe a hair more comfortable (and paid for with plenty of life left), so I'm sticking with them for now. But, I'll definitely look for something better next time.

How in God's green earth could that be considered unsafe? Sure you were going faster than most....most were sitting on their duffs! That was gentle cruising along an open section of the run in complete control, and certainly not speeding, let alone balls to the walls trench digging. In no way were you buzzing or weaving in and out of people. You even began checking your speed well before the cluster at the slow sign. There was no harping on white jacket skiier guy or the guy filming behind you, though. What gives??? Were you supposed be side slipping the entire run or flailing your arms like a newbe? Roscoe was way out of line. After presenting that video, the manager should be appologizing profusely and calling Roscoe in for a chat.

I'm so jealous you're in Steamboat. :D Sometimes you have to hunt there to find a good carving run. There are lots of very easy to moderate runs over in the Wallyworld part of the mountain, accessed from the Sunshine lift that would be good to start on. Tomahawk in particular, is wide, quite flat, and long, and might be an ideal run to learn on, since you won't build up any warp speeds there. High Noon and Sunshine Lift Line are steeper, though, and are two favorites of mine. Buddy's Run, from Storm Peak is also good. They generally try to keep these runs groomed, but they can be sweet one day and choppy the next. Though much shorter in length, Vogue, Voodoo, and See Me from the Christie Peak Chair are steeper, but usually groomed and lots of fun, too. If you've got any fresh powder out there, forget carving for a while and be sure to explore Big Meadow...oh man, so fun. Mostly trees in there, but not tight. If the trees get you a little spooked though, hit the back of the mountain from the Morningside lift. It doesn't seem to get hit too hard and can be lots of fresh powder on the trail peripheries.

JT, Big congrats for your nephew! He must be absolutely elated. Good to see other deer and geese photos, too. It has been a very slow year for deer sightings for me in the hunting seasons. However, I managed to stalk and kill one whitetail in archery season using a 12th-15th century English longbow reproduction and a heavy ash arrow. I was able to get within 16 yards for the shot, shooting the arrow off my knuckle. A steady rain kept my footsteps quiet. Very cool, very intense. Just a few days ago, I was able to stalk and kill another deer (big doe) with an 18th century PA longrifle repro. The flint went to frizzen, the black powder went bang, and the .440 patched round ball dropped it in its tracks. A good cut of venison is marinating now, in fact. I had just finished a new powderhorn the evening before the season began, so it was neat to put it to good use so quickly. I often wonder, if only I would combine my passions of low tech bows with high tech snowboards, no mountain dwelling creature could escape me...then again I think things could get pretty bloody without ever releasing an arrow. Maybe I'll just enjoy them separately.

I enjoy watching ski and snowboard racing when I happen to come across it on TV once in a blue moon. But no, I don't follow racing. I do try to soak up what I can find here about racing gear and techniques though, and try to decipher what of that might be applicable to improve my freecarving. So I certainly respect and appreciate what racing brings to freecarving.

There's truth in that, I think. Our local mountain (600' molehill) built a superpipe that was seldom open, less seldom in good condition, and never had riders. They finally gave up on it and reconverted it to a normal run. They retain their mini pipe, which has almost-vertical sides. It's good for a run now and then in hardboots. (Just don't go too big and fly out.) As for parks, I can't bear to trash my board on metal rails. (We live and die by sharp edges after all, right?) Boxes...on occasion, but I'm still hesitant due to risking damage. A 1.5 second slide just isn't worth killing countless hours of high edge angle carving. I like when they build parks on short connector trails. Great use of dull space that congregates riders and frees up traffic on the main parts of the hill. But I cringe when they dedicate part of, or a lateral half of a main run to parks, as I understand my local mountain is doing this year. Ruins carving opportunity.

I picked up a used NSR2 last year on the cheap, as those go. Big change from my Proton (incredible edge hold and smooth ride), but I spend alot of time on the Proton as well since it's shorter and turnier and has more pop. Though I love my NSR2, I'd really love to have a slightly shorter, stiffer model after spending a season on it to ideally get the best of both worlds. IMO, in regards to bang for the buck, it's hard to beat used glass boards in the $150-$400 range. Is the extra performance difference with the new shapes and metal worth nearly another grand for a new board, to a non-racing freecarver? Well, it certainly puts the ride on a whole new level. I'm gritting my teeth when I admit that I've been seriously considering having one built to my specs. Will I pull the trigger? Probably not this year at least, between family needs and current economy. I check the classifieds religiously to see it one will pop up at the right price. If I find one, that may settle it. We'll see. In any case, "quivers" are out of the question at that price.

My kiddo trying out Dad's board.

Have you given any consideration to a 4-door truck? Especially if you have needs beyond just snow travel, that may be the ticket. A 4-door has lots of room for friends and family and the bed storage is so nice. I love mine and never have to pay to have anything delivered. With a locking cap, I also don't have to mess with roof racks and the bed sees lots of use throughout the year. In the last few weeks alone I've kept all my hunting gear locked in there, and have hauled deer, several loads of yard waste, a half ton of compost, and nearly 3 cords of firewood. Oh, it's great in snow, too. Food for thought.

I saw these last year and the racers seemed to really like them. If they're available, I'm not sure why they're not "available"?? Maybe they're still being refined. ?? I also wonder if there are any plans for a step-in version w/ cantilevered heel blocks? I've been holding off upgrading to the current crop of TD3s along with new Fintecs, just sort of waiting to see what develops.

Kuhl Alfpaca Fleece Jacket, Mens Lg. New w/ tags. Dk green base, black stripe arms, rust stitch. Made in Canada. $50 + $10 ship / CONUS

Another big + for Costco's Head gloves. They're only $12 and of the same quality as much more expensive gloves. I'm picky on fit, and these are perfect. No stupid pull-out liner glove in them either. My only wish is that the powder cuff was a little longer. Mine show some wear, but have plenty of life into their 3rd season.

Same legs and stance as Jim, here. I've dealt with tolerable shin bang issues on and off for years and years. I replaced the nylon strap on the upper cuff of my boots last year with an elastic Booster strap. I don't recall having shin bang issues after that.

Hard boots are going to feel different, for certain. They'll feel like your legs are immobilized initially. You'll see the benefit quickly though, when you get on your toe edge and don't have your calves waffling, or on your heel edge and find your ankles aren't fluttering. Just coming from average Joe Carver, I say just hop on the Renn Tiger since you've been riding so long already. Take the other board too, so that if you're really struggling, you can stroll out to the parking lot and change things up. No big deal. Stick to easy green runs at first. Get "re"-used to skidding turns, then lay into some gentle carves. You'll find you'll accelerate like lightning, so keep your nerve up. Eventually, easy green runs won't let that RT do its justice. Move up to harder greens or blues and open things up a little more. When you begin to push your commitment level into a carve, you're face is going to light up like a Christmas tree. You'll probably find edge hold that you didn't think possible. Have fun and go find your "Holy Schnizzle!" moment! PS - Just another vote to NOT ride with your walk mode levers down. If you go down on your butt (and you will), those things stick out towards the snow and are waiting to be sheared off in the open mode.

Sold.

Sold.

Sold, thanks. Delete.