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SunSurfer

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Posts posted by SunSurfer

  1. Intrigued by the channel. What material is the channel made from? And how much does the channel structure alter the flex in the segment of board each one is in? All the info I've found in a short look has been silent on material and cross section while asserting it allows the board to flex without interference from the bindings.

  2. My memory is they are a 5 mm metric T nut. And replace both nuts and screws with stainless is the way to go. That way if you can't get the metric thread your screw and nut will match. Having had the same corrosion problem and the odd screw fail I now check them before each season starts. 

  3. @kibber Thanks for the UPZ shell comparison at the "same" mondo. I had assumed all UPZs would have the same internal dimensions at the same mondo. Might be worth a question to the new UPZ distributor. The sizing information on the website would suggest all the shells at a particular mondo point are the same size in mm!

  4. And the counterview. I run mondo 29 feet in mondo 29 Intuition Pro Wrap liners in the correct size UPZ shell for mondo 29 feet. I have had the shells stretched to give my big toes more wiggle room. Scrunching the toes up seems counterproductive to me, given that the big toe in particular is an important part of fine balance mechanics. My toes stay warm and comfortable and my toenails don't need to recover after each winter.

    Getting appropriately moulded instep orthotics then remoulding the liners with the orthotic in situ was a key step in me getting adequate heel hold and being able to set my buckle tension to a sufficient level for control but I don't have to unbuckle for lift rides. I would encourage orthotics rather than boot downsizing.

    • Like 1
  5. 4mm or 5mm plate?

    Either way, the plate is designed to allow the board to flex freely at any interaxle distance.

    A sliding axle plate exerts much of its performance benefit from minimising twist in the midsection of the board. The longer the interaxle distance the longer the section with better torsion control. Note that the AllFlex plate, the current racers favourite has its sliding attachment points at either end of the plate (the mid section attachment points on it limit the amount of board flex).

    The plate will make you appear "lighter" to the board, (cheaper than a course of Ozempic) and the board will flex less in any given turn. So your turn radius will increase slightly.

    I would suggest start with maximum interaxle distance you can fit on your board. Plate centred on whatever inserts you are utilising (UPM or 4x4). Bindings at your normal stance distance and centred on the plate.

    Conventionally the sliding axle is placed at the front. The plate will perform identically and the board will flex freely with the plate oriented either way. I ride my plates with the fixed axle at the front and the sliding axle at the rear.

    Check the tightness of the mounting screws on a daily basis.

    I have TD3s with the BBP baseplates that are thinner than the standard baseplates. Even so the extra height from the plate makes pushing along in queues and cat tracks a little different. The extra height may also make using footrests on chairlifts more difficult. I often struggle to get my foot on the rest and my thight under the safety bar. With the extra weight of plate plus accumulated snow you will want to reduce the drag on your leg while on the chairlifts as much as possible.

    It takes a while to get used to low speed manoeuvres and side slipping to a stop.

    Let us know how you get on.

    (PS: I have drilled an extra set of hole in my 4mm BBP so the my max interaxle distance is a further 3+3 cm apart than the standard.)

  6. @barryj Think about where you want your front lower leg to start from and go to as you make a turn and absorb the bumps. Now do the same for your rear leg.

    Get someone to video you with a mobile phone from the side. Stand in your stance position and distance but without your boots on. Now from a glide/rest position go through the up and down motions of a few turns. Now look at the video and see where your legs naturally want to start from, in particular how vertical, or not, your lower legs are. And they will not be the same.

    Stop flailing around trying to find appropriate settings and instead, use your brain and look at the way YOUR body functions.

    The starting position is where to preset your boot cuffs to. If one of your lower legs needs to move through a larger arc to make the turn movements setup your spring system on that boot to allow it to do so. If one of your legs moves through a relatively small arc, then just use the boot flex of the fixed position to accommodate that, or refit your spring system and tighten up the springs to allow that range of motion.

    • Like 1
  7. Homemade hand helmets, built from HDPE 1.5 litre garden spray pots and old ski poles. Think heavy duty slalom skiers punch guards with more coverage even than Komperdell's World Cup model. My avatar photo shows the 2nd iteration version in use, I'm now onto the 4th.

    Had them called "jugs", "knuckle draggers", "sliders", "training wheels", "inelegant" but after breaking the index finger of my dominant hand, needing a 3hr operation and a year of hand exercises to get the mobility back, and making my living with my hands I won't ride without them.

    And they're an even surer conversation starter on a lift than a full hard boot setup with an isolation plate.

  8. @fluxgame The general principles have been discussed in another thread, but I'd have to search for it.

    In general terms you're correct, not because the board is stiffer, but more because the further your feet are apart the less longitudinal flex bending leverage you exert. In effect you seem "lighter" to the board. Consider the two extremes, a) all the riders mass concentrated at the centre of the effective edge with b) the same riders mass split evenly between two points at either end of the effective edge. With b) the rider can jump up and down all they like but there is essentially no bending force exerted between the two outer contact points at the end of the effective edge.

    The original discussion was around whether sliding hinge isolation plates made boards stiffer. No they don't. But by spreading the contact points for the riders mass further apart, they make the rider appear lighter to the board.

    "I need to buy a new plate for my snowboard. It's cheaper than Ozempic!" 😉

  9. On 3/16/2024 at 9:44 PM, centsless said:

    My experience is they do degrade, discovered this cracking IMG_9595.jpeg.531923da3ee8115a4bf075c6cbe85e32.jpeg(not corrosion related) last year and wound up replacing all my baseplates. If I saw corrosion I wouldn’t hesitate to replace.

     

    Same experience except mine got to the point of detectable flexing while riding before I noticed. And the crack in mine was in pretty much the same spot. 

  10. Authors credited for all. And he has put back online articles that were on the Bomber site, that are not in the Tech Articles section on ASB.

    Now try opening them from your mobile phone. And the link opens immediately in a mobile appropriate format and is easy to read. Now try doing the same thing with the Tech Articles on ASB.

    But he has put up the Tech Articles that are on ASB without acknowledging that they continue to be available on ASB.

    Not sure when they were actually written. The typeface is reminiscent of that analogue device, the typewriter. But since a photo of me at SES 2012 (the guy in red) is in the Norm Pt 1 article, I have to assume the version online is subsequent to that.

    He has shown a way to make that material more easily accessible. Now, it needs to be brought up to date, in both content and presentation.

  11. The answer to that is to get suitably skilled and knowledgeable people here to revise/rewrite the Tech Articles with a 2024 view.

    If ASB is to be the place to come about hardbooting, it has to LEAD.

     

  12. Carving snowboards – who makes them?
    An incomplete alphabetical list. Make it more complete!

    BOARDS

    Alloy     http://www.alloysnow.com/default/     Korea

    AMICCS     http://www.amicss.com     Japan

    Amplid     https://www.amplid.com/     Germany

    Apex     https://www.apex-snowboards.com/     Austria

    ATZ     http://atzsnow.com/     Korea

    Axer     https://axer.co.kr/     Korea

    AVEL     https://avel.co.kr/     Korea

    BC Stream     http://www.bc-stream.com/     Japan

    Black Pearl      http://www.blackpearljp.com/     Japan/Swiss

    Coda     https://codaboards.com/     USA

    Coiler     https://coiler.com/     Canada

    Cue     https://cue-boards.de/     Germany

    Custom Made (Italy)     https://www.custommadesnowboards.com/en/custom-made-snowboards     Italy

    Donek     https://www.donek.com/     USA

    F2     https://www.f2boards.com/en/winter/f2-snow     Germany

    Goltes     https://goltes.com/     Slovenia

    GP87     https://gp87.net/products     China/Japan/USA/Europe

    Gray     http://graysnowboards.co.jp/     Japan

    Gromel     https://gromelsnowboards.com/     Russia

    Jasey-Jay Anderson     https://jaseyjay.com/     Canada

    Jones (Nidecker)     https://www.jonessnowboards.com/      Swiss

    Karma Snowboards     https://karmasnowboards.com/     Russia

    Kessler     http://www.kessler-swiss.com/     Swiss

    Korua Shapes     https://koruashapes.com/collections/snowboards     Germany

    Liberation Boards     https://slatermfg.com/     USA

    LUSTi     https://www.lusti.cz/snowboard-c3996/     Czech

    Moss Snowboards     https://mosssnowboards.co.jp/     Japan

    Moss Snowsticks     http://www.mosssnowstick.com/     Japan

    Nidecker     https://www.nidecker.com/en/     Swiss

    Nobile     https://nobilesnowboards.com/     Poland

    OnEdgeStyle (OES)     https://www.oes.cat/     Spain

    Ogasaka     https://www.ogasaka-snowboard.com/     Japan

    Oxess     https://oxess.ch/     Swiss

    Pathron     https://pathron.com/     Poland

    Plasma     https://plasmasnowboards.com/snowboards/     Germany

    Pogo     https://www.pogo.biz/en/snowboards.html     Germany

    Prior     https://www.priorsnow.com/     Canada

    PureBoarding     https://www.pureboarding.com/en/     Swiss

    R.A.D.     https://r-a-d.se/vinterprodukter/     Sweden

    Rabanser     http://www.rabansersnowboards.com/en/     Italy

    RadAir     https://rad-air.com/store/     Swiss

    Radical     https://radical.swiss/en/snowboard/     Swiss

    Sandy Shapes     https://www.sandyshapes.it/snowboard-carving/     Italy

    Sense     http://www.sense4.me/en/     Slovenia

    Sigi Grabner     https://www.sgsnowboards.com/     Austria

    Snowblind     https://www.snowblind.ch/     Swiss

    Soul Waterman     https://www.soulwaterman.com/     Canada

    Stranda     https://www.strandasnowboards.com/     Sweden

    Swoard     https://www.swoard.com/     Swiss

    Thirst     https://www.thirstsnowboards.com/     USA

    Vaughan Snowboard     https://vaughansnowboards.com/     Canada

    Virus     https://shop.virus-snowsports.com/     Germany

    VLSSnowboard     https://vlsnowboards.com/     Italy

    WASD Snowboard     http://wasdsnow.com/     Korea

    Winterstick     https://www.winterstick.com/     USA

    Xtasy     https://www.xtasy-snowboards.de/     Germany

    Yonex     https://www.yonex.com/snowboarding/boards     Japan

     

    SKWALS

    Ace Skwal      https://aceskwal.com/    USA

    Lagriffe     http://www.skislagriffe.com/www/skwal/pages/lagriffemain.html     France?

    mpride     https://www.mpride.net/     Swiss

    Thias      https://thias-skwal.com/en/     France

    Coda, Oxxess, R.A.D., Snowblind, and Virus in the board maker list above also make skwals.

     

     

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 2
  13. 16 replies with data as of 8 March 2024.

    All born male.

    Heights ranging from 168cm to 195.5cm.

    8 wear UPZ, 3 Deeluxe, 2 Mountain Slope, 2 a ski touring boot, 1 Head Stratos Pros.

    Across the group,

    Leg inseam varies from 42 to 49% of height.

    Stances range from 25 to 31% of height.

    Stances range from 56 to 68% of inseam.

    Splay:
    11/16 have 5 degrees of splay or less.

    5/16 have 10 degrees of splay or more (max 21 degrees).

    Canting: 4 riders report using canting.
    3 of these have splay angles greater than 10 degrees and use it on the rear binding.

    2 riders use front foot inward canting, 1 of the 3 with splay >10 using rear binding canting.
    The other is a stance outlier, 55 degree binding angles with 0 degrees splay, and front foot only inward cant. This isn't to say this is for "wrong" for them, just that this setup pattern is uncommon.

    -----------------------------------------------

    Would love it to receive more data. I will periodically update the spreadsheet I'm keeping the results in.

    @pokkis I need your inside leg measurement please.

    @BlueB I need your freecarve binding angles for a typical freecarve board, e.g.  19-22cm at waist.

    If you have already made a reply and want to edit your measurements, message me so I can update your entry.

    Thanks to all replying so far.

     

     

  14. @philw rides a lot of fresh untracked snow and his advice is backed by that experience.

    At the angles he was suggesting, 40 front &  30 rear, most hardbooters will benefit from some inward cant of their boots to reduce lateral stress on their knees. Just seen you are riding Trench Diggers. The cant disc design of these is ideal for experimenting with nuanced canting.

    Personal message me if you want the long explanation why inward canting might be helpful. Otherwise just experiment with gradually increasing amounts of cant, until you find the most comfortable settings for you.

    You can then transfer those cant settings to your F2s by making wedges of the appropriate angle. F2 standard wedges just come as 3 degrees.

    • Like 1
  15. Watching the video slowed down the arm rotation motion happens exactly at turn transition. The arm comes up first potentially aiding unweighting of the uphill edge, then strongly downward towards the nose of the board potentially helping a down weighting to set the new carving edge.

     

    • Like 1
  16. Having tried @Wolf suggestion with a GoPro8 Black above, I needed to use the narrowest field of view, then crop the image to about half size, then expand that image to full size to see anything useful beyond the last couple of turns before the camera. GoPros are designed for wide angle POV use so not great for that kind of distant recording.

    Best cheap solution I know of. Ride with a friend and shoot each other. I have an old ski pole handle with a GoPro mount on top precisely for this use.

    The difference is night and day.

     

    • Like 1
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