energyrail

i'm up for norquay sunday. the man made snow pack should offer less rocks. I hope.

Keep in mind extra width from donek won't cost you any extra.

well for me it is the soft booters going straight, kicking out the back foot to knock speed. But that's probably cause they out number the skiers, where I ride most of the time. But it is hard for them, when we are going so fast but not making our way downhill very fast.

well up here in the great white north, when you have to bare -25 or more for the best powder days. I where a a neck warmer, the tight elastic ones that stay up good. Sometimes i have to change it at lunch for a dry one.

well my plan was to leave on the 13 for banff. where are you staying? I might end up taking my own vehicle, cause i'm staying in banff at a friends. not sure what my plans are for the following week and how much flexibility i want. when are you do back at work following the nakiska thing? i'm riding PK on my way to PG for christmas. there for a few days. have to be back at work in Dawson on the 29. back to PK for the 31/1.

ya interesting thread for me my first board was used FP. the bindings were new but almost ten years old. my boots were new RTR's. I got a new custom donek on the way. not metal just new school shape. i will post pics of it when it arrives. But i have seen some old stuff. more than half the time i see hard boots. they are on old plastic bindings. like a guy at norquay last year, don't remember the board but the bindings were almost broken i think. I would not have called them safe. He had never even heard of this site. but he could ride. seen some girl running like 0 angles with ski boots once. So sometimes they are unaware of high tech gear available one click away. I try an enlighten them.

I think you should ask this on the softbooter forum I like the grey though

well a #10 machine screw is really close in dia .006" smaller .190 to .196

Hey greg(snowboardworm), I'm planning on making this. then flying to comox to visit relatives and ride mt washington. If my friend hugh isn't going then maybe I could meet up and carpool. I haven't been to an expression session. but i have been on lake lousy for the equivlent of a good season over the last 8 years. I'm thinking if i'm coming to carve it up. I would rather be somewhere than the lake. rode at sunshine 5 times I think. nakiska once, mount norquay once. Norquay is a little narrow but gooming is good. only ever mt. biked kicking horse.

I can tell you what the sole length on a upz 27 is. 399mm I think but it doesn't really mean anything when using it as a snowboard boot without the din blocks. that length is the length of the boot when used as a ski boot. with my experience and corey_dyck if the bail isn't flipped around on smaller sizes. I would hazard a guess at mp28 and under. You will have boot drag in hard turns. my thought has been to run upz's din block on the rear to fix this. Haven't tried it yet.

Does flipping the heal block around, allow a upz to be centered on the board? my snowpro's are almost out of adjustment on the back to get them centered on the board. I have tried td3 and and it was impossible to get them in the right spot. ps. i'm refering to centering the whole boot shell, not the stupid tucked in sole.

come on lets see some picture

I had a typo, a Quality Control check should have stopped this board from leaving the manufacturer.

board should have never QC checks If anyone cares a SAE standard sized nut is .75 of thread dia.

well I would say the amount of flex depends on the temp. days at -20celsius they don't move at all. In the spring at +5 they flex quite a bit. that is with 08 upz rtr

The groove one uses to attach the snowboard to the heel. Is the same groove designed to hold the ski din soles onto the boot. the bolts weren't engineered to take the load the ledge was just like the toe. If the bolts are being loaded the boot has already broken. having said that those screws are kind of a onetime deal. Once they are removed and retightened a few times, They won't want to get as tight. It is good to nut them , and use real threads. anyway by the looks of the pictures the ski din soles will move the rear bail as much as 2 cm. That would go a long wayin getting them to fit bomber bindings. and the ridigidty of them won't be an issue in the sidewinders.

except with upz mondo 26's you will be flipping the front bail around to get them to fit loosing the bail stop on the front. Another problem I think you will have is the rear ledge on the upz is tucked up so far under the heel, that to center the boot on the board lots of adjustment is required. On my catek's and snowpro's my heel adjustment is almost maxed forward in order to center the boot. Of course one can increase binding angle to eliminate overhang on the heel and have a bunch of clearance on the front. but that's not gonna work for me. So If I buy some sidewinders, I think i'm gonna run a ski din block on the back to fix this. Does anyone know if the height will change or the lean angle of the boot will change with the different blocks

what have you done with your other boots. what size are they?

mondo 27 upz rtr sole length 299 yes but in my opinion that number is there for the sole length of the boot with ski din adapters. The real more useful dimension is the total shell length of 309 mm

ya we should try for a western canada expression session. maybe just expand on the one at nakiska i guess.

well i'm thinking about getting a custom one made as well. But no never rode anything remotely like it before. I think the review of the other donek metal new shape boards should tell you something. I'm thinking about a 235 waist, but not sure how long yet probably around a 180. What I can say is my 192 tanker with a 245 waist is a great board.

For most people a true carve or race board setup 200mm waist, 60 degree angles will never work for them on anything steeper than a easy blue. And lots of hills I have rode in Alberta and BC don't have many runs suitable for me on a race board. But I can carve lots and ride all mountain on a wider board. More versatile boards are far eaiser to ride everywhere not just in the trees, bumps and powder. Not everybody is a freak of nature that can carve steep icy groomers on 15 m radius board. running 60 degree angles. but yet I see a big chunk of the alpine market catering to it just that. But my home mountain has trouble having terrain for beginner skiers and softboot riders. so a beginner alpine rider trying to carve steeper narrow blue runs just isn't going to happen. But riding 45/40 on a freeride setup carving steep stuff is far easier. But yet when people see a hardboot setup on the freeride board they think it is a special board too. So the sport needs user friendly setups to grow. not 200mm entry level freecarve boards for less than 500 dollars. Back east and on hills with good terrain for it maybe it is just fine

Hey Sean Sorry I didn't call yesterday work was busy.(one machinist off on holiday) leaving the hydraulic specialists(me) to fill his shoes. Are you ever around on sunday? yes but in hiding I suppose. I try to phone next week.

I don't plan on riding it in deep powder. But 6" to a foot of tracked powder is possible, deep untracked stuff will be left for the tanker. Actual moguls aren't very common on my home mountain anymore, so that is not a concern. so i'll be riding it 75% groomed terrain. Free carve boards turn to long in the size I want. So am I looking for a custom shape freecarve board. maybe. Maybe I'll phone and talk to you sean. What days and time are best for you?

Ya, I'm really confused about the stiffness thing. How stiff will it be? And is that stiffer or softer than what I think I want? Do I try Jack's (dumbell on board between to supports) method and see how stiff my boards are. And compare to his data on the donek metal fc.