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Jrobb

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Everything posted by Jrobb

  1. Dan Yoja sell them via www.upzboost.com They go for 210 for the stepin version like I have (which I got from him) and down to 129 for the lower end models. I've had had the Race recommended to me because of my weight (200lbs). ALso Donek sell them as well. Last set of the Snowpros like on Ebay (the black bodied ones with toe levers) went for around 70-75 bucks USD. J
  2. I've heard most refer to it as a full circle carve. I've done it on toeside but never got more than 200deg heelside. Don't see why it wouldn't be possible though.J
  3. Jrobb

    standing up

    I found when necessary to sit standing was easier if I pointed the nose down hill slightly. So if the board were say perpendicular to the slope, point the nose 45deg downhill. But other than that and the roll over, not much else aside from unbuckling. J
  4. Well, my preference is softboot angles...rode mostly the same for over 15 years. But I think I kind of went into hardbooting thinking I would just be eliminating boot out...and I'd have more control. WRONG. I have to relearn many aspects of my technique. I'm going to ride my 4807 since it carves the easiest of the two boards I can put plates on this weekend and just get used to how things are. Just received my BTS so mounting them tonight...hoping it will smooth out the heelsides and not take to much away from toeside. I gotta say, I had watched all the videos I could find before riding trying to pick up on the different motions and thought "that should be easy enough" Wrong again, I have a lot more respect now for the smooth carvers I was watching. Enlightening to say the least. As far as the board size, mine will do for now. I may step up to something else next season after a demo or two. J
  5. I'm right there with you Shred, I like the moderate blues. The greens at my hill only allow for a carve here or there once speed is reached...and then I have to avoid the sliders. What are you "carving" on now? I opted to learn on my softboot carving boards (4807, and Arbor A-Frame) as I have 2seasons on each and can carve them in my soft setups. I did find though that the steeper angles were the hardest part to get used to. Currently I run about 11-15 deg steeper on both feet than my softboot angles and that is fairly comfy for now. Plenty of heel power and the toe sides are much more precise than in softies. Currently 35/30. but that's my preference. The 4807 is a bit softer than the A-Frame so I'm going to try that out this weekend with plates to work out some technique issues. J
  6. FYI just saw yellows sold out in the store. :( J
  7. I'm starting to feel that's right. I guess I'll just have to experiment and demo when I can. I have yet to get on a real carve board so I may be fine on the higher angles and narrower board, I just can't tell now since my board now is wide. Great, just when I thought I was in the clear. j
  8. well, looks like I'm looking for 20-23cm then. J
  9. I think we could start a whole other thread for 4807/swallowtail comments. Last week when riding mine: "So is that New school, or Old school?" me: "It's new-old school...around 2001 ish" "Is that a split board?" because of the swallowtail "No is't a swallowtail...it doesnt' come apart" J
  10. ...or your local hardware store should have various dowel sizes. Many are fairly cheap but then you'd be stuck with a bunch of dowels. I guess that's why bootfitter's are such a highly praised bunch of professionals. J
  11. I managed to find this...it's translated from Japanese. <CENTER></CENTER>"It promptly reports to the hard boots habitual user of DEELUXE! The hard boots of DEELUXE change! "INDY" it changes the model, "TRACK700". The base is the same as INDY, but the buckle from the ratchet changes to the aluminum buckle. After, the damper of heel upper amount is gone and changes to the forward lean mechanism of 5 stages. But, in the one where the damper of the time before is good exchange until now sort being to be possible with option, relief. Being to be, next period TRACK it becomes line-up of 700 325 225. The catalog is schedule around the summer. " Best I can figure is the RAB is out and the 5position Forward lean is standard but RAB may be available as an option. J:freak3:
  12. A bootfitter local to me used a few rods they had on hand. They looked like honeydippers...slender stick with a ball on the end. They had various size balls on the end...better than cramming a fat hand down there. J
  13. 1week old. and 1day of use J p.s. Vid no worky. Couldn't get clear picture of the looseness. Actually it felt tighter tonight than right after riding...but still noticeable.
  14. Jrobb

    4807 178

    Anyone else notice the 4807 is longer than posted length? My 168 measures 172. J
  15. Booster, Yeah I started with them at 55/50 and finally found comfort and control at 35/30. But even Heelsides were a bear. Toesides were butter smooth so I actually just bought the BTS with blue springs to soften the heelside and still maintain a little flex. I will have to play around with these a bit should be here in a few days. I was thinking 19-23 too so I may pass on the board or not...dunno right now. Something wider may slide along. This weekend I should have some decent cond. to practice in and dial in more adjustments. J
  16. Jrobb

    4807 178

    You know, I found the same thing. Had to ride all the way back to get the performance I expected what with the nose and all. After the cutjob, I can now ride centered and it carves better for me...actually better and easier than my A-Frame. Float is still like it was with bindings all the way rearward...even through 3+ft...but turn and performance on piste and hardpack is much better now. That pic has bindings mounted to the rear. J
  17. No not the mount bolts, the pin-to-heel interface has looseness. I will make a vid tonight and post to youtube hopefully it will be able to capture the movment. J
  18. The looseness is between the pin and heel receiver on back binding only. When I insert the other boot in there, the same looseness is evident. Both boots in front binding fit like it did before riding...and looseness there is the same. It's as if the rear pin assy got slightly bent...like if you have |___| normally but now ever so slightly the assy seems like it's like this \___/. Not that drastic but you get the idea. I contacted Dan about it and I can pick up a replacement pin assy fairly cheap if it gets unuseable. I have tried to adjust the sole length but at 29MP I don't have much room for over under adjustment. If I try to tighten it too much the rear pins don't want ot ingage properly on the snow and pop out in mid run...they feel like they hook up but only one does. Anyway, it's not noticeable when riding...I've got other things on my mind but being a machine repairman, I see looseness as possible signs of failure later on down the line. J
  19. I retightened the pin assy mount bolts all were tight but one was looser than the rest. The looseness is not at that interface though. J
  20. Sorry to the thread but: What is this heel wedge you speak of? I have one foot slightly shorter and thinner than the other one and it likes to lift on toesides I'd like to fix this if possible. J
  21. Excellent info so far guys. I am getting closer to finding a range for me to look at, I think 20-23 or 24. Only reason is really I'm having most difficulty getting used to the high angles mid 40's and up. This is probalby just exacerbated by trying to run them on a rather wide board...correct assumtption? I'm looking at cheap entries to carving boards and one currently being eyed is 18cm. I'm guessing even though I'm not fully comfy at higher angles yet...and the ECing is merely by accident for now:freak3:, the narrower board will be less overwhealming at the necessary angles I'd be running when up on edge. Does this sound right? J
  22. I remember seeing the ratigns there as well. The Sazukas were recomended to me over the 325's due to their stiffnes over the 325's. The Sazukas have an asymetrical flex where the 325's have symetrical flex...I've heard this asym flex makes the boot feel more stiff. Not having tried both I can't say one way or the other but my comment was based on that recomendation mainly. though I like the "real" buckles the Track series has over the Force closure ones the Sazukas and Indy's have. J
  23. Jrobb

    4807 178

    I havent' ridden both, but I have the 168 and can give you my take on it and a minor tweak to make it a tad more lively. I didn't like much the drastic difference in flex from front to back you notice with it in normal configuration...the fish tail is still pretty stiff. The nose is way too soft but again my 200lbs is over the top for the 168 however I made it better suited to me... I extended the cutout in the tail 6" and due to operator error (rode switch into a ditch) extended that to 8". This softened up the rear so the progression of flex feels more natural. Soft still up front, stiff midsection and med. flexing tail. THis also allowed a more centered stance for deep pow due to reduced surface area in the rear. It carves like a dream in softboots (have yet to try the hardboots but may do that this weekend), and is much easier to navigate through trees now...less floping sideways and more surfy turn initiation. Below is a pic of the 6" lengthening along with an adaptiation of my Eldo. Since the extra 2" on top of this picture, I reinforced the notch (apex) with a layer of carbon fiber as a small crack developed after the crash, but it has held up to even an unintentional wheelie on one tail section and high speed...with no failures. J
  24. Cool, was that your preferred angles or was that necessary to fit the boots on without boot out? The ATV sounds like a sweet ride. I'm going to try to demo one next season when they come back to town...if they do it again. J
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