Jrobb

tognar has them for 129 trigger feed or a melting tip (like soldering iron) for 35. J

Did they recently outlaw the Defender? I've seen them at dealerships as of a few years ago granted that was in VA and I've seen many on the road here in CA as well. It's rather spartan interior is what I assumed kept it out of mall crawling soccer moms and your average SUV owner's radar. J

It would be my first carve deck...I could do 100 shipped. That's why I was interested to start with. I'll have to see if the bindigns I may get will fit on the FP...if so I could do that instead. J

I don't trust American car lines much any more. My gf's family is of Indonesian descent and because of Japan's treatment of them in WW2 I believe they refuse to buy imports. THey have Ford, Chevy, Pontiac, and something is always breaking or not working right. Granted many were made in 89-96 not one of their cars can hold a candle to my Tacoma. '96 2wd with 186k and still gets 25mpg going up to carve. It went 174k on the origional clutch, 1set of brake pads, 1cat, 60kmile maintenance. The rest just oil changes and tuneups provided by your's truly. Best vehicle I've had, or have ridden in...except for maybe my buddy's 4x4 01 Tacoma:biggthump . J

You might want to read this over in For Sale. J

Well, you said it's too stiff for allmtn, just wanted to know if you're a light or heavier rider...oh well, price doubled anyway so I'll have to rethink this. J

new posts by new members don't show up immediately at first. It took mine about 10 hrs to show up till I had 6 posts or so with a few replies before they were instant. J

How much do you weigh and dare I ask the obvious do the bindigns come with it? Also do you have estimate on shipping to 94806? J

Rome's done something interesting in regards to the heel-hoop design by extending it to the toes area. It attaches at the heel and toe areas. You can see in the pic of the Targa model here it is one piece all the way to the toe area where it wraps underneath and is secured there. The heelhoop length (for boot size) adjustment is moving the entire segment back and forth. This is a nice compromise between an all metal binding and a metal plastic hybrid. It also allows them to remove unnecessary material and make a lightstiff durable binding pretty simple. J

Actually I'd say 80% of the bindings on the market have plastic bases (actually fiberglass reinforced...higher percentage of fibers go to top end models)and aluminum heel loop/heel hoop(Rome). 20% are all metal, and 10 % are all plastic(usually the low end bindigns). Most companies are now worried about making light weight gear as the freestyle market drive most of the business in the States here. There are some making locking highbacks that could possibly use a 3rd strap but that's more a remnant of a bygone era and I'd not trust it to hold a high speed toeside with a 195lb rider. I've had Nideckers for a while and like them aside from their weight they're great but noone(manufacturers) seems to get the hint that a higher placed ankle strap would solve a lot of bad technique in softbooting...it's just easier to attach the strap to the high back pivot screws and be done with it. I don't even feel the Catek bindings address this very well...I'm not going to drop 10K on mods to a Civic when I could just buy a GTO.:) J

I've had the Nidecker Pro 800's for 3 years and the ratchets do the same thing. I've only had one time the heelstrap released on me and that was after augering my 4807 into the side of a gully going about 25mph. It was enough to bend the metal tip protector of the board and delam it back 3". And sadly it didn't just slip back a couple teeth, it came completely undone. It still works like "normal" though. Mine have "slipped" while cranking then for the last 2years but I've not really thought of it much as I get sufficient hold. You can push down on the ratchet part near the teeth (past the release tab) as you crank to get a tad more pressure...like pushing the ratchet into the ladder strap. J

It didn't on mine either, I reloaded the page (F5) and clicked the ink again and it worked. J

I'm getting a headache. Must...turn....away....can't.....helpp......argghh.....must .....see......3.....dddd! j

Looks cool. 30 frames per second, is that average, above or below average for a videocam. Obviously not comparing it toa a hand hel videocam. I saw the sample vid they had on the site, clarity is great but it seemed to jump around a lot. Could have been a bumpy ride...but I'd suspect a snowboard to be even bumpier. Of course strapped to a helmut it would probably be fine. J

Is that dot (on his butt) a button? It's playing tricks with my brain. J

that one looks fine to me, he's in 3d when I look at him but I can't get both in3d at the same time. 'sthat what you were talking about? J

Awesome, I'll be sporting the same grin in a few weeks when I get my first setup sorted out. Can't (pun intended) wait. I'm having gear dreams at night...it's aweful, I can't sleep. J

that is a great deal...but that's just starting bid price. These are usually going home at auction between 150-180 USD plus shipping. Same price as what you got figuring free shipping and free glasses...which is still a deal. J

I agree. Softboot interface is like a Cadillac...or Mercedes limo vs the hardboot interface being more like a sport tuned Porsche suspension. I've found my most comfy position (in softies) is equal weight on both feet, and leaning forward. Hands in front, kind of in my lap and legs bent slightly...shoulders facing the direction of travel. If I go hands behind back, I get too relaxed and the tail gets squirrely, although this is fine if I'm slingnig turns at breakneck speed. But if I'm straightlining...it's different J

This is my new favorite read. When does it go to paperback? J

Is there a general guidline for matching effective edge to weight for carving? I know sidecut dictates turn radii along with a sough of other factors but in general is the effective edge to weight ratio of a certain # dependant on snow conditions? Or is it more personal preference... Coming from softboot world, I have to ride 170ish to be happy with the grip, but seeing specs for Alpine boards 10cm shorter than my usual length having 10cm more effective edge is still a grey area for my understanding. Currently 132 is longest eff edge I've ridden and I dig it (pun intended) but once in hardboots am I going to find I can overwhealm it? Even if you're not sure I'd like to see some of you're preferences along with riding styles. thanks J

I asked the seller this: "What is normal retail for this board? and is there any warranty?" This is what I received: "well actually it was never distributed in the US so there is no real normal retail price. Regular Matrix boards usually go for 200-300 dollars so I would think this would be about the same or a little more. Unfortunately there is no warranty for this board. Actually, this is the last one in the country that is unowned so if there was a problem there are no replacements. Generally speaking snowboards rarely have warranty issues from my experience." Not sure if that's good or bad, but I'm still keeping an "I" on it. J

That dimple pattern is called Structurn. It does the same thing that structure does or base grinding. It's a fn fast design. My Arbor has it and it flys. It will last about 3 grindings. Only real issue with it is when waxing the board. It takes more effort to get the wax outta the dimples. The board will also turn on a dime...great feature imho. The edge profiles you're concerned with...is that the angle of the sidewall you're not sure of? I'v enot been able to compare two side by side with different angles (have to be the same board to really tell the diff) but the angle put on the sidewall is supposed to provide better edge grip. Since when you carve you are riding on part of teh sidewall too, this bevel allows the edge to sink deeper into the snow and grip more than an edge more vertical. Similar concept to why a 1deg base, 3deg sidewall grips more than a 0deg base 1deg sidewall (angles)...pointy. SHouldn't be that much of an issue. J

That's one of my default positions too. Pulling the front foot towards me instead of weighting it...front leg straight, back leg bent...blah..blah blah. J

I've seen that before when riding with a setback stance. I ride the tail hard and am not far enough forward to get the tip-front foot edge bite hard but the rest of the board from front foot back to tail edges perfectly. The turn is carved but the nose is kind of scraping along making that wider path. Also indicates for me need to sharpen the tip(s). this is of course me, in soft boots. J