Jrobb

Anyone ever heard of them? Matrix Boardsports J

How well do their Fast heels work. Looks like the handle or lever could inadvertently be hit and they'd release. Or better yet, how does their stepin system compare to Intec heels? J

The wierdest part is the 3d image is crisper and clearer than either of the origional photos. At 5ft away from the screen, it looks like the pic is hangin in mid air...and it doesn't hurt the eyes so much. J Did you make them by ust taking the pictures from two different cameras, or did you have to use an editing software to alignand crop them?

this one is not too bad. You get your a^^hats but they're everywhere lately. http://www.snowboarding2.com/forum/ isn't bad either but it has less traffic and typically of a new boarder comunity. then there's http://groups.google.com/group/rec.skiing.snowboard/topics?lnk=sg&hl=en. There's more but I don't have enough time to deal with all of them.

As other said you can do it on soft setups, even the board is less a limiting factor than the boots and bindings. I have stiff Nidecker Pro 800's and Salomon Diaoogues( not the stiffest boot ) and can carve decently. In fact I'm now just limited by my toe and heel overhang. I've found I can stand angles up to 27/21 F/B in this arrangement on my Arbor but past that I can't get the power I need on toeside. Plus my feet are like little princesses...if they get uncomfortable in any way from to omuch pressure...my day is over. Check out the Bomber articles Norm, and NormII for some technique. I've found my main issue is trying to reach for the snow (which unweights my edge enough to start it skidding) rather than staying aligned over the edge to maintain pressure on it and keep it carving. When your'e riding focus on tipping your rear knee into your front knee and apply pressure via your shins instead of your toes. THis help me maintain carve on toeside. On heelside, I sit down a tad and keep my butt aligned with the edge to kep it carving. J

No but I'v ebeen mistaken for Ski Patrol... my red and black jacket, packpack, adn black pants I guess is what did it. Person complained to me about some other skier...I let them finish then explained I wasn't Ski Patrol and then slid away. J

Cool thanks. As noob as I am I'm kind of judging boot qualities by number of buckles and descriptins. I didn't like the three buckles of the Earth's vs the 4 buckles of the majority of the other boots...along with rider input from various threads I can find. J

Thanks for that search Neil, I found this on there. Are these worth attaching my expensive feet to? http://cgi.ebay.com/Proflex-freecarve-bindings-brandnew_W0QQitemZ220074197476QQihZ012QQcategoryZ101731QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem J oh and are the Earth boots any good? also to clear things up, I'm 6'3" almost 29 and 210-215 in snow gear.

Ok so I got sized in skiboots and I'm pretty sure I need a mp28.5. J

These are the widest production board out there, I've been able to find. Starts at 27.5 in 155 and goes to 28.4 through 167 and 171. Though 4mm isn't much over the Sasquatch. The Venture is similar to the El Grande but downgraded construction...so better for beginner. J

Seem I read somewhere a manufacturer had extra hardened edges. I think it was on race skis. In order to tun them, you had to remove this hardening added at the factory...it'd be the equivalent of running over a rock and trying to remove that work hardened burr with a file...takes forever unless you use a diamond stone first. For some reason, Volkl or Atomic sticks out in my mind. And the rockwell number may have been 50 or so. J

PM me with some numbers and we can go from there. The boots may not work for me. What's your mondo size (dumb question but I'd rather not be an ass(ume)? J

Yeah I've read through that a few times but skipped over some because the tips didn't apply to me at the time. I'd say I'm past norm and NormII carving and my soft boot carving has exceeded my setup (at least exceded the width of my board). I can crank the board over and carve till I boot out all day...but I want more. Are Bomber and Hardbooter the only online retailers that may have deals on closeout items? J

So after some lengthy consideration and lurking about here, I have widened my search for boards to include purchasing hard boots and bindings...and keeping the board I was going to sell (A-Frame 170 the hardboots to be used with this board). But the dillema is, I don't have 600 to spend on boots and bindings. For this to work I'd need a setup that works for around 475 (the price of the possible board upgrade under consideration). For starters, I've carved a bunch in softies for the last year and half. I'm 215 loaded for snow, and have 28-28.5 mondo (one foot is 28 other is 28.5). I'm not too sure which way to go binding wise, stepin (Intec) or bail...the stepins look less secure but that could be my "skidder" eyes tricking me. First glance, I'd look at used gear but bindings still have me nervous as failures here can mean... for a knee or leg. New boots would have my budget stonewalled so I'd still need bindings. What to do? What should I stay away from and what should I look for? J

Is it light? and how were transitions and edging with your size...which is? I have 12.5's and am worried it may be to much width. I assume since it's a Sasquatch you don't ride plates with it. J

How's the weight on the F2? For its size would you say its average, lighter or heavier. I know the Tankers are generally lighter given their size but their off the radar now for me. Donek, Atomic, and F2 currently under sconsideration. J

Ditto, I notice when I get lazy and am too straight legged when on ice I skid more than I like. But if I put conscious effort to bend knees and crouch slightly the edge bites instantly...like trying to pressure the edge via my shins instead of toes. I think this just realigns my COG more inline with the edge rather than aligning it away from the edge (to the inside). I don't know...maybe I'm just remedial. J

Mor speed. J

Well looks like the Tanker slipped outta my grasp. Seems there'll be a bunch of us with the F2...hopefully I can get one ordered Monday. J

Info I managed to find also: J

I hear ya. I like to support the small shops too but not at the expense of not getting what I really want. The Sasquatch seems excessively wide I only need 26-27...and it only comes up to 170(135eff edge) my A-Frame had 132 eff edge so not much change there...I'd like more grip. The wide is good width, but I don't want a 169...170+ is my target sizes and I'd like to keep the SCR's dowm below 10m so I can handle the trees I love so much. J

Well, it's not really about the money as I can dig for the three I listed...just if I can get the right goods for less, then they'll be that much more fulfilling. THis board will be used 80% of the time for tree runs in 2ft of fresh to carving on Chair 2 and 4 at Kirkwood. I have a 4807 for the really deep days and it carves nice on hardpack too but it's fragile. Last weekend out, I bonked the nose in a rut and delamed the tip bout inch back, and the tail slipt 2" towards the rear binding after another wipeout at mach 3. J

for a freeride board for soft boots that can and will be used for riding it all (carving, steep, speed, deep dumps, and the occasional forray amongst the trees) which of these three would you recommend? I'm 6'3 200 with size 12.5 and ride soft boots at 18/15. I've been intrigued by the lore of the Tanker clan but have heard good things about the other two as well. This will be a replacement for my A-Frame 170. Tanker 177 oversize (4mm pintail) F2 Respect 176 (3mm pintail) Atomic Dreamraider 170 (6mm pintail) p.s. Both the Atomic and the Tanker are roughly the same price but the F2 is close to half the price of the other two. J

I'm interested in possibly picking up an 05 Tanker oversize of the 177 variety. DOes anyone have specs on this line? I think I saw somewhere it was 258mm but I know the new ones are 27. Can anyone confirm? J

I'm thinking about picking one of these up too...but I'll be riding it in stiff softies though. I believe the 9.5/8.5 sidecut bit refers to the front of the sidecut from nose to rear binding or so is 9.5m then transitions to 8.5 through the tail. Not sure where this transition occurs but it's supposed to help accelerate you out of a turn with a little extra whip while the more gradual cut at the tip allows you to easily initiate turns. J