Jrobb

On the site if you watch the annoying flash graphics at the top right, the guy in the red jumpsuit looks like he's wearing HB's. ALmost look likt some Orange Stratos Pros. From days of yore. I like their statement that the Human body can't sense and react in realtime. :lol: Besides that, a 151? What kid has that kind of grip to throw down for that tiny twig. J

Don't detune...you simply need to bevel the the edge. If you want you can bevel only a little bit of the tail edge. Say from 2cm inside widepoint to 15cm from widepoint. Bevel the base edge to 1deg more than what it's at now. This will be harder to maintain than setting the entire edge (base edge and then side edge) to 1 and 1 (1deg base, 1deg side). Detuneing is simply dulling the edge and that's not great for a freerider. J

Furi, are you set on either a Phoenix or a Tanker? If so go with the tanker. J

If you read their tech page, there's vents all over the helmet. Namely right below your nose, all around the goggles, at the temples, out the side by cheeks, and along the top of your head. Still a lot of money to look like a storm trooper. J

I voted "regardless" but I meant to go with the "comparable priced". However sometimes it's just stupid to pay through the nose on principle. Having seen my local Windsurfing shop (Windsurfing industry is a similar niche to Alpine Boarding) shut down for economic reasons I suppose it hasn't yet made an impact on me yet. It's nice to have a local brick and mortar joint to get your have-to's when you need them. You know the guys, gals, ride or sail with them...support them. Internet sales are all to easy now to just save a buck or two. The only problem is invariably the one item you desire will not be at the store and you'll have to order it through the store or online. I've ordered through stores and will go that route if I can find what I need at prices I can afford. I will admit I am a very bargain oriented shopper. But saving a few clams to pay to have item shipped doesn't make sense. The internet's great for finding what you want, when you want. I think the best thing is for the brick and mortar's to realize in order to compete unless they offer services you can't on the internet (tunes, personal consultation by people who actually know what they are talking about) then it would be wise to sell on the internet too. Some may think it's "selling out" but the way I see it, the internet isn't going anywhere...so change or get left behind. There aren't any local Alpine retailers in the Bay Area that I know of. If there were, I'd justify a 30min drive to support them. I also probably wouldn't have bought my boots online through Ebay from RJ, my bindings off Dan the UPZ man's website, my BTS from Bomber's site (assuming the local store carried them), or my new used board from a fellow BOL'er. But hey we all do what we can to survive, consumers and store owners alike. J

Too bad they don't have anything in the 170 range, It'd make a great rock board. J

From experience, you can usually get away with using a warmer wax than the conditions require. It is softer and will not last as long. An unwaxed (not freshly waxed) or board that the wax has worn off during the course of the day will still perform better (albeit not optimal) than a board waxed with wax too cold for the day. The board will feel "grabby"...especially on edge. You can see this for yourself by riding on the snow with sun shining directly on it on a warm day and then hit a shaded spot...in the shade you'll imiediately pick up speed and the grabbiness will lessen a good bit. Personal experience here in Tahoe we can see days from 65F to -12F (not back to back but through the course of the season. Usually avg's 28F-40F and I can get away with a universal/all temp wax 80% of the time. When it goes above 40F or so I switch to warm temp wax. Typically on first wax of the season, I hit the base with a thick layer of all temp, leave it overnight, scrape, then hit it again with whatever the temps dictate. Sometimes through out the season and depending on how much I ride, I'll hit the edge 2-3" with cold temp and then the rest of the base with whatever temp is necessary. THis is just my method, it may be overkill or not even necessary but it works for me, my snow and my bases. I'd just stick with a warm for 40-45+ and all temp for the rest to keep things simple. If you regularly see 20F and below and more ice, I'd get some cold temp too. Again, internet wisdom...insert grain of salt as necessary. J

So I was bored at work and started poking around BOL's store and was looking at the new Track 700's. I got to thinking about a trip coming up and was looking at stocking up on some replacement parts for my Sazukas (only one season old but I like to be prepared). So I was fliping back and forth between the Track 700's and the Sazukas (AF???). It looks like I could transplant the straps and buckles of the Track to the Sazuka. Only one that looked not possible was the top cuff strap. Is this possible? Ignoring cost and the obvious "Why would you want to do that?":cool: J

I was going to suggest you try your last question. Try it on a board you know what to expect from. You'll be able to see directly the performance upgrade. I'm currently riding an A-Frame 170 in hb's...(just got a Renntiger to step up to). With the wide board (A-Frame) don't try to go too high with your angles. Whatever you can get with toes and heels just at the edge. Me in 12.5 (29 mondo I think) I run 50f 40-45r (from memory I'll check at home). I tried 50+ but when I edged, the side loading of the boot onto my legs was scary. I dialed the angle down till it felt right. Right off the bat, your quads will burn...even after a full season of softie riding I switched to hb's and the first two runs I was aching. I now use BTS and it's much more ergonomic on the Sazukas I have plus I like the flex for some stance adjustment. Even though your 'Frame at 162 is a bit longer than your Rossi, the effective edge is way shorter (I'd guess 20cm shorter) than the Rossi. You'll notice this once you go to the Rossi that you have a ton more edge hold and you should be able to rail much faster and harder. Sure you can just jump to the Race board, but one added benefit I found with hb's on a traditional board...better pow performance. My Frame 170 was a tank in the pow. Too stiff, no taper, not much setback and a small nose. It killed ice and groom and was a dream to launch and land but pow...not so much. In hb's though, every little shift and stance shift (front-back) it amplified and transmitted directly to the board. For me (200lbs) it made my Frame behave like it had more taper, and a bigger nose. And tree riding is so much more precise than before. Many peeps don't like hb's for pow, but I like em for everything...especially pow. J

I'll +1 to D-Sub. THough I've never rode that board, my 12.5's on my A-Frame (waist of 25.2) with Nidecker Pro800 and Palmer risers I couldn't go below 22f,r and be completely devoid of boot out. I cut some sole material off the heels and toes on my boots to allow shallower angles, but that only got me to 18r and still boot out on heelside. On that you'd likely be at 40+. J

the closer to 90deg you keep your edge the easier it will be to keep it sharp and maintain it in good condition. I too like the 2side, 1 base. I seem to be able to feel the difference in base edge bevel more than a side edge bevel. I had a rock take a chunk out of my board with a 1 or 2deg base. It took me 3deg to completely remove the chunk. I ended up with a 4deg base and 2deg side. I had to match it with a 4deg side. It was fine but seriously limited my enjoyment. The board had to go a ways up on edge to grip. This was done to avoid a base grind or two. Going back, I'd have done the grind to save my preferred angles. I've had good success too with universal wax in cold and mild snow temps (<38F). Usually on my board I run cold wax next to the edges and whatever temp I need on the rest. The cold temp wax is tougher and seems to keep base burn to a min. on the edges. J

Not sure about the bindings. Maybe Burton? Looks like something's missing,..toe lever maybe? I don't know much about the older Alpine bindings. Either way, the angles are way too low. You'd want to pivot them so the binding base is just at the edge of the board. Set the front and back of the base just a tad inside of the edge just enough to eliminate boot/binding-out. J

I think the specs sound fine for softies. Man I wish this was around a few years ago when I got my A-Frame. The best part is the longer edge. To get 147 edge out of a traditional styled board you'd need at least 187+cm (look at the Tanker). But here you have that at 170. The 25.5 waist is good for size 12's with a PLS runing about 27F 18R. My Arbor at 170 with 129 edge and 25.2 waist was just lacking width for laying over with my clod hoppers. It had similar sidecut and is pretty fun with HB's too. I like the overall shape but agree, some tail kick would make off piste superb...more kick than a 4807 but closer to a 4wd, just a thought. either way, I'd love to try one. J

usually someone with no clue but has all the cool-new ish. (New board/skiis, boots, pants, jacket) Usually found right in front of or just below your favorite jump, or snowplowing/sliding sideways down the last bit of fresh groom on the mountain. kook, idiot, moron, touron... but then again, it's not their fault...they don't know no better!. J

Thanks Doc and dred, I always carry chains when I go into the Mtns...even in summer. If we use my truck (2wd) I'll have probably 2pairs in case one breaks (been there before). Weight in the back shouldn't be bad, I'll have both of our 80lb labs in there with their fluffy beds and blankets. probably 3decks-4 decks and maybe a cargo box on racks on the shell. Sounds like it shouldn't be too bad. If any one else wants to chime in, I'm all ears. We may spend most time at Bridger, then hit Big Sky or Sun Valley on the way back. May stop over in Tahoe too to visit some buds there for New Years...we'll see. J

This one I got off some skiing site. To unlock the sheet, password is "sidecut" J PMSidecutRadCalc.zip

I listen to tunes about 90% of the time. I use the "tune-ups" earpads for my Giro Fuse. I keep volume so it's like background music and I can still hear everything...even bombers on my tail. Top it all off, for 30bucks these things have really decent bass for cheap headphones. Hard to find any phones at that price that sound as good. And on the lift I mute with a button on the cord. They keep the ears toasty too. J

Lots of good info dropped. Thanks guys. Interview went good, just waiting to hear back. Looks like it may be end of Jan through begining of march timeframe. Also found out I will have a company van to use but will likely have to share it with some other coworkers so I may not be entirely mobile. I won't be able to do any full day midweeks but should be able to pull off a few evenings here and there and definitely weekends. I better stop talking before I jinx myself. J

The family and I will be driving up to Bozeman for Christmas from the Bay Area. Is there anything specific to look out for that would make the trip a nightmare? Are there any particular roads to stay away from due to frequent closures? We normally use my 2wd pickup as our snowmobile and just throw chains on when needed. Is this a realistic option for getting there and getting around Bozeman and say to and from Bridger or Big Sky? My gf may be buying a Subbie before the trip. In that case I'm not too worried about the getting around part. Why drive you say? We are bringing our pups along since we don't want to board them for the holiday. I haven't planned our route just yet but I'm thinking head to SLC on 80 then North on 15 and then 90. Any thoughts? J

Thanks guys for the replies. and Chuck the ones you mentioned sound decent. I grew up riding in the East at Massanutten, Snowshoe, and Wintergreen and dealing with a 6hr drive. It'll be like old times but with a shorter drive. Hell it'll even be less than the 3.5+ I normally do every weekend here in Tahoe. Even though I'll hate being away from the family and dogs for 7wks, it looks like my carving season isn't totally blown. I'll send word out if I make it out there. I'm also diggin the night riding...cheap midweek prices my wallet likey. Fingers crossed, got interview this Fri:biggthump J

Well, this is starting to sound better than I feared. I'm guessing Pknk is about 40min from Eerie? How are the roads, most likely I'll have a rental that the company sets me up with so likely not 4x4 or awd but then again I've never rented up there so... J p.s. nothing in stone yet, this is just recon for now.

Like title says. Is there any carving around Eerie, PA? I may be "stationed" there for 7wks for training and it looks like it may be right in the middle of the season. I looked at Peek 'n Peek (sp) how's the season there? any suggestions? J

I rode softies for about 14 yrs. 11 of which were in some Morrows that made Sorrels look like Sazukas. I can't tell you how many times I jammed my ankle on toesides in those deathtraps. Got some Dialogues (Salomon) and loved the support, but like Alee, the toe drag would eat me for lunch. I'd been carving mostly in softies for a few years, not full laid out but definitely not skidding...unless I meant to. After popping in and out on Bomber, I decided to go for it. Only have half of a sucky season on hb's but this year looks much better...I got a RT on the way:biggthump . The transition was easy as far as the technique...so far. Getting used to the higher angles was the only stumbling point...that and towards the end of the season, I didn't get much good carving conditions. The first half was decent, but I was still in softies. I did have a blast laying some decent troughs on my 4807 in softies...till it tried to break. J

Be careful. A steepandcheapaddiction is hard to shake. It encompasess year round outdoor gear. It's real hard to turn down an $80 jacket that normally retails for $300+ J

Last two years Kirkwood around the 15th of Dec. has been my first on snow riding. About 90% open. a few "X" marking rocks still exposed, the Wall and or the backside may not be open yet. last year the backside didn't open till after Jan but that was abnormal as there wasn't any snow for over 3wks. A good year early to mid Dec should be just fine. This year hopefully will start a little earlier than the last two.Early to late Dec will have pinecones (small like robin egg size) that can damage ptex. It can be scattered so riding near the edges is a little more iffy. J