zoltan

Sounds to me like it's completely on topic. I measure stance width from the center of my binding discs. It's the only point which stays constant regardless of setup.

I'd say it couldn't hurt to try a wider stance. Personally, my 19.5" stance felt perfectly fine, but when I widened it to 20+ it just felt better. I'm happy I decided to experiment.

If you have the means, let Coiler or Donek custom make a board for you. It's one of the best things I ever did for my riding.

Yes, we'd absolutely walk the dog while we're at the hill. I'm still wondering if people bring their dogs with them, and if they do, where do they stay while you're riding?

So, my wife and I adopted a dog this Sunday. She skis and I ride, and every weekend we we go to the local hill, and are gone for about 9 hours total. We're not sure how to handle the dog, since 9 hours is a long time without a potty break. I wanted to ask other dog owners how they handle it. Personally, I was thinking about putting a small crate (he's a small dog) loaded with blankets in my car and just taking him with us. He could stay in the car while we ride, and we could visit him and let him out as needed. He'd also be able to hang out with us on the ride up and back. The temperature is usually in the 20 or low 30s, so it wouldn't be dangerous to him.

I think it's more of a statement on the quality of your waterproof gloves than mine. I've gotten excellent durability out of mine.

I'm sorry, I didn't realize wanting to have dry hands made me a mamby pamby rider.

I wouldn't use these gloves for snowboarding simply because they're not waterproof (wet hands will immediately ruin my day). However, I think I may have found my next pair of cold weather gloves for the motorcycle.

An easy way to take up volume is putting an insole shim under the liner: http://www.tognar.com/bontex-insole-shims/

I'll always have a Fish in my quiver. It's the best board for trees I've ever ridden, and is just the most agile powder board. Once you ride it in those conditions, it'll suddenly click. I such a fan, I made my splitboard from one. So yeah, while I'm not happy about Burton's channel, I've accepted the fact I'll need to eventually use it.

I own a Razor, and it's one of my favorite boards. It's just really fun, carvers great, and is still easy to ride.

You'd be very happy with either of these boards: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=36017 http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=35987

That's a really good point I never even considered. Gracias.

Good point. I was looking at McMaster myself (it might be my favorite site) and was thinking of either just getting a 5mm dowel, a plug gauge (available in 0.005" increments), or just buying some stock and turning the pins myself. The BTS' pivot hole is 5.1mm diameter, and I'd rather not drill it larger unless absolutely necessary, so that limits me. Do you think 316 stainless would be strong enough, or should I stick with carbon steel?

How could any of you understand what was said in the video? All I heard was what sounded like a snow gun up close and personal. Aside from that, I'm pretty anal about the responsibly code, and have no issue with what that boarder did. He was in control and avoided those below him.

The pins are 4.95mm diameter. If I turned some new pins myself, I'd probably go 5.1mm (and make the BTS holes slightly larger). The spring pins I'm considering are these:

Last season I bought Head boots and modified them to use the BTS, and used it successfully all last season. However, when drilling the boot for the BTS pins, I think I may have used a slightly too large bit. The pins are still snug in the holes, but I don't need a hammer to push them out - I can do it by hand (with some effort). So, I'm worried if the pins aren't tight enough the holes in the shell might deform or get bigger, which might lead to damaging the shell or losing the pin, neither of which would be good. So, is this something I even need to worry about? If it is, I was thinking of maybe using a spring pin to make sure it's really snug. With the pins I've found, I'd only lose 15% sheer strength going to a spring pin. Alternately, considering I just picked up a new mini lathe, I could make pins which are slightly larger than the stock ones.

Here is what I found comparing the shape of the two boots: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33100

Define "a ton of money".

I used to ride duck, and it was the first stance which actually allowed me to carve a turn. However, it was virtually impossible to carve a heelside at speed using duck. When I finally went to a forward stance, everything clicked, and I was able to start carving at speed as well. I also found it easier on my knees, and more forgiving of equipment setup. Anyway, I'd strongly recommend you at least try forward for a couple days. On my do-everything board I'm 30*, 21*. If you're going back to Jackson for the winter, you absolutely need a splitboard.

It's frustrating to me than Dan refuses to import the RC-8. It slots in so nicely between the RC-10 and ATB, but he just drives people to the RC-10 and then suggests a softer tongue. Ok, but that's an additional expense on an already expensive boot, and it doesn't make the shell itself any softer.

Think what you want. Lowrider's argument had already been picked apart in this thread, and he's demonstrated he really doesn't understand how helmets work, only to it surface yet again. Normally I don't care if someone's giving bad information, but I will speak up when it's about safety.

Seriously, are you going to start this nonsense again? Your facts are wrong, your "science" is wrong, and your assumptions are wrong, as has already been made clear in this thread. Do not give blatantly false and bad information on a matter of safety.

If you do the math, a baseball traveling at 100mph has the same momentum as an average human head traveling only 3.2mph. Think the baseball helmet is designed to absorb as much energy as a snowsport helmet?

Even with those modifications the forward flex of the boot is restricted. To allow my boot to flex freely, I had to do this: http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33770 Before I made that modification, yet, the yellow springs still felt stiff, but it was the shell causing the issues, and not the springs. Once I fixed it, the yellow spring then felt too soft. The small amount the BTS sticks out the back of the boot isn't much issue for those of us who don't EC, and I appreciate how bomber of a product the BTS is.