ilanferdman Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 First of all Hi to all. My name is Ilan. So i'm a die hard skie for the last 15 years or so. Unfortunately i live on the wrong coast and east coast skiing has nothing to offer for me. riding the groomers is...well...boring. so i'm out for a new challange...and ripping down the mountain on an alpine board looks like way too much fun to miss. being that i know nothing about carving on a board...i need the forums help to get me started. i'm 6ft tall and weigh between 165 - 170. i'd like to get a board for carving big fast turns on the east coast hard pack. the faster the better. what kind of boards should i look for? what size? what length? what kind of boots? also, how much will a used setup cost me? any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advance. if anyone wants to email me directly, feel free: ilan@metrofundingcorp.com. thanks again. ilan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/welcome_center.cfm great place to start. welcome. have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 Welcome to carving! search this site for plenty of info on how to get started. for your size, you probably want to start with a board ing the high 160's or low 170's. Donek Axis (axess), Prior 4wd, or other all mountain board is good to start. search the classifieds - you can get good quality used stuff for decent prices. I'd say you could get board, boots, and bindings for under $400 if you're patient to wait for the right stuff to come up for sale (It has been done for less) New stuff - expect to pay $350+ for boots, $275+ for top-end bindings (bomber or Catek) and new boards start around $400 and can go as high as you can imagine... Also check The Carver's Almanac (alpinecarving.com) for really good info. And ask all the questions you want! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skatha Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 I'll be the sensible one here.... Have you ever snowboarded before? It's a bit different, sliding sideways, plus you can fall in ways you never dreamed of.... I'd definitely spring for lessons in the basics like heel and toe side slipping, stopping, etc. linking turns, too... Take some alpine gear with you to learn... After that first lesson, read some of the articles available and maybe take another lesson.... To me, I went from riding to skiing and found the transition pretty easy-- skiing to boarding is probably pretty easy-steezy, too, but I wouldn't want you to set yourself up for lots of undue frustration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTA2R Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boots/raichle_sb_413.cfm $150. These are the boots I have, they are fine for me. Sizing is limited with this particular model, but you could be saving a lot of money. Some may argue "they are too soft" or "they are for beginners." Of course you will develop (or may already have) personal preferences, but I will generally work on my technique first b4 concluding I've reached the limit of my equipment. I recommend doing your research. alpinecarving.com is frequently very helfpful. There are other resources. Good luck and welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gleb Posted March 31, 2006 Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 welcome to the addictive world of carving. It has pretty much changed my outlook on the mountain. You can easily buy a board and bindings for around $250. Even less. I got a Burton snowboard with bindings on ebay for that much shipped. Don't worry about the boots because your ski boots will actually work in the bindings. If you have ever tried snoblades (the 100cm skis) the bindings are the same exact concept. I believe some people here used ski boots for several years before springing for some actual carving boots. I came right from skiing and it was a nice transition. Congrats on finding carving! where do you live? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilanferdman Posted April 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 thank you all so much for getting back to me so quickly. i was overwhelmed. i'm definitely going to take a look at the links and possibly look for a board on ebay. i think at first i'll use some older/softer ski boots i have and then take it from there. at least i know that i have a forum that i can turn to for advice. thanks again for everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 I would recomend a madd 170 to start on or maybe a donek FC but once you got the hang of it and want to haul ass a madd 180 or a big ol' GS stick from (insert vendor of choice here) with a 16+ meter SCR the madd stuff is great but Proir Donek and Coiler ALL make great gear as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pow Posted April 3, 2006 Report Share Posted April 3, 2006 faster the better? i do believe Pogo has the snowboard speed record 201km/h, but that could be outdated. however when converted its the same as the volk renn tiger's recorded top speed.im not sure how a board like the Blitz would hold on the east, but maybe Fin does. you want a very large sidecut radius, a GS board longer than 175 id say. but thats just my 2 cents. ohh, and be careful with ski boots. many would-be carvers started on ski boots never to ride alpine again. if its possible, snowboard specific hardboots will probably be more enjoyable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 Actually, the thought of going straight from skis to a carving board scares the hell out of me. I wouldn't want to do it that way. Maybe there are some of you who have, but definitely not me. I think starting in soft boots on a freestyle board is the way to go, get comfortable on that, then work your way up to a carving setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gleb Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 I never actually tried the ski boot idea because my boots were too big for the bindings. I jumped right in. I bought some burton winds and everything worked out great. Either way, you're gonna fall, so why not fall in the right gear:lurk: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopoet178 Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 Actually, the thought of going straight from skis to a carving board scares the hell out of me. I wouldn't want to do it that way. Maybe there are some of you who have, but definitely not me. I think starting in soft boots on a freestyle board is the way to go, get comfortable on that, then work your way up to a carving setup. ditto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 Actually, the thought of going straight from skis to a carving board scares the hell out of me. I wouldn't want to do it that way. Maybe there are some of you who have, but definitely not me. I think starting in soft boots on a freestyle board is the way to go, get comfortable on that, then work your way up to a carving setup. I thoroughly disagree. I've taught several skiers how to snowboard on alpine decks and in their ski boots. None had ever snowboarded before. Oh yeah, one of them was my wife and we're still married! Only thing I would say is that snowboard-specific hardboots are better for learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 ilan, first thing I'd do is move FAR away from Jersey.Boston is great for easy access to plenty of great skiing/riding up north.If you can rip on race/carve type skiis the transition to carving is fairly easy. Don't right off skiing the east just yet because it'll take plenty of practice before you're actually tearing turns on a carveboard.If you're a good skiier go 50/50 as you're learning.I just scored a new pair of ski boots last week after not skiing for 6 years.planning on getting some badass carve skiis to shut up my ski buddys when they start humming about "you snowboarders". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilanferdman Posted April 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 skiing will def not be going away. it's too much fun, and i'm a complete addict. i just wanted something to entertain me on the typical ho-hum days, when the conditions are ok, and carving is the only thing to do....aaaaannnnnnnddddd....i'm skiing a crappy mt. i know hard to believe, but we have ****ty mountains on the east coast. i've begun my search on ebay and elsewhere. i'll keep you guys posted. can't wait to start rippin'. thanks again for everyone's help and input. hopefully we can meet somewhere sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 don't forget to look here: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 I switched from skis to boarding in the 80's and was frustrated until the variplates came out. I put on my old skiboots and had a blast. You are used to using your edges and the stiffer boots will probably feel better at first any way for you. I felt like an elephant on rollerskates in softboots and the softer hardboots aren't much better for me but then I am quite a bit heavier than you. I don't think a soft skiboot is a bad choice. especially if you startout on a softer binding setup. Not Cateks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pow Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 cheap burton boots on ebay, in case youre interested http://sporting-goods.search.ebay.com/_Skiing-Snowboarding_W0QQcatrefZC12QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQsacatZ36259QQsassZwindsurfQ5fhsthey'll work with any standard (not step in intec syestem) hardboot binding, although theyre a little low-tech. Should be easy enough to learn in, though i dont think you'll continue using them once you get the hang of it and start looking for high-performance gear. or you could save that money for a meal at McDonalds:lurk: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadx Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 I wouldn't worry about using softboots as a mid-step between alpine carving in hardboots. I was a mediocre skier and wanted to switch to alpine boarding. I spend one day on a softboot/freeride rental setup and then went and bought some used hardboot gear. The hardbooting was so much easier in my opinion. Instant transmission of rider input allowed for better board control. I'm glad I didn't get hung up on learning in a soft setup first. Now is the time to buy used gear, too, since it is off season and come next season, used equipment may be priced a bit higher and get snapped up quicker. Start collecting your pieces parts now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skatha Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 I wouldn't worry about using softboots as a mid-step between alpine carving in hardboots. I was a mediocre skier and wanted to switch to alpine boarding. I spend one day on a softboot/freeride rental setup and then went and bought some used hardboot gear. The hardbooting was so much easier in my opinion. Instant transmission of rider input allowed for better board control. I'm glad I didn't get hung up on learning in a soft setup first. Now is the time to buy used gear, too, since it is off season and come next season, used equipment may be priced a bit higher and get snapped up quicker. Start collecting your pieces parts now. I completely agree about the hardboots v. the softboots-I spent 3 years as frustrated as h*ll about my softboots-heel lift, okay, ratchet down the bindings-now I don't have heel lift but I can't feel my toes-oh, did I mention? I broke my freaking ankle in softboots?.... I bought the hardboots and, for the first time, felt like a movement would translate into board action, instead of swimming in my boots.... Get the boots, get the bindings, demo a board.... you can always upgrade and eBay... BUT, don't waste your time in softboots.... I don't think I'd use ski boots either, just because I feel the flex is a bit more comfortable in a snowboard specific boot for movements specific for snowboards... I like my Salomon ski boots, put they go straight ahead best... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted April 5, 2006 Report Share Posted April 5, 2006 I thoroughly disagree. I've taught several skiers how to snowboard on alpine decks and in their ski boots. None had ever snowboarded before. Oh yeah, one of them was my wife and we're still married!Only thing I would say is that snowboard-specific hardboots are better for learning. Unfortunately for me... I didn't have the benefit of your tuteledge as did these skiers to whom you refer. I was on my own for the first ten years that I piddled around with hardboots. I eventually got there riding off and on in hard boots while swapping out of my soft boots. Eventually I figured a lot of it out. Incidentally, thanks for your articles. They've helped fill in the holes. Now if I could just figure out how to throw down those laid out heel side carves on the steeps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted April 5, 2006 Report Share Posted April 5, 2006 i know hard to believe, but we have ****ty mountains on the east coast. NOT TRUE> the ice coast makes better riders.Where did Bode grow up training ? Cannon. Bill Johnson ? Whiteface.Madd boards were developed to rip the conditions we love here in New England. Hone your skills here and then head out west.Growing up on frozen granular you had to learn how to use your edges and keep them sharp. Are you going to Hidden Valley or Mountain Creek ? You'll need to do some driving up here to VT NH ME and hook up with some of us.Plenty of boards to try. I'd say, get a PureCarve Maverick 175 to start on.Nordica SBH's and some Burton race plates. btw, it's snowing in Boston right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted April 5, 2006 Report Share Posted April 5, 2006 Now if I could just figure out how to throw down those laid out heel side carves on the steeps... I don't know about "laid out" but you can scream the steeps if you have the endurance to really pump each turn. stand up in the transition and then bury yourself into the board nice and gradual like. You will hold an edge on the side of glass skyscraper. jack weigh in on this I never know how to explain it like it feels. Its kinda like bending your knees on skis and getting low sets and holds the edge. but its all in the transition from high to low when you get to the bottom you are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted April 5, 2006 Report Share Posted April 5, 2006 Kimo, true, without lessons, softboots might be easier. But nobody should learn to snowboard on their own, right? Steeps - if we're really talking about steeps, standing up between each carve takes too much time and you will quickly exceed your speed limit. I think the best advice for steeps is to learn cross-through technique (see tech articles). Pumping carves is fun, but only when you have total confidence in the snow. Willy (or is it Jasey?)..... Purecarve Maverick? I cannot think of a worse board for the east. That, and it's discontinued. Are you trying to mess with our newcomer or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted April 5, 2006 Report Share Posted April 5, 2006 The whole under over through thing??? Reading that article I would have to say I am a cross under or cross through as far as transition goes. But how does that translate once you lock in to the carve? When conditions are cruddy and sloppy or just really steep I continue to drop into the board until I clear the turn. If I get tired and quit sinking into the board thats when I start to lose control and get beat up in the sloppy or bumpy stuff. Maybe its not covered in the corduroy school of thought. :p It works when you need the edge to hold and you need to bleed speed. It seems to soak up the bumps and carve a tighter turn thus bleeding the speed. It also keeps me from going over the nose on the tight turns. There has to be more to it when one is in an Allmountain mood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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