Problems Releasing

[tcross.au]

I am having problems from releasing my board a carve mostly on the steeps but also on the flatter runs. I have tried everything from de-tuning the tail to setting my stance foward as to not ride the tail. I ride a sims mfr with fire boots.

Tom

[Guest Randy S.]

What position are you in when you are having these problems with release?

Do you put a load on the board just prior to initiating a turn?

Alright, who else can phrase some suggestive questions, that's all I can think of? I couldn't resist with the title of this thread. I suppose its not fair to pick on folks for whom English is a 2nd language. Sorry.

Seriously though, what angles are you running with your bindings? Do a search on here for some of the threads about riding steeps.

[Guest]

Moving your bindings forward isn't going to accomplish much unless it actually makes you more comfortable on the board. For fast edge changes, you need to be able to do different types of transitions than you're currently used to. You can find great info on them here:

http://www.bomberonline.com//articles/cross_over.cfm

[tcross.au]

I use the cross under transition most of the time with some speed to it

usually it happens when i am deep in quick turn, so a low centre of gravity. and the only way out is to pop off the tail and spin my upper body, this is usually the scariest time because of the width of some of the trails i ride on. I ride with 58-60 front and 55 back, I can go as low as 50 on the front but it does not feel as natural to carve.

[Guest]

What do you mean by "spin your upper body?" If you're talking about counter-rotation, it's a very bad habit to have.

[tcross.au]

I only counter rotate to save my life at times, Normally on any blue and green runs i can use the momentum to get out of turns but if my edge gets stuck this is the only to stop my self hitting the trees

[Pat Donnelly]

Perhaps this link may help: http://club-ski.web.cern.ch/club-ski/snowboard/tutor/virbas.html

If you could have someone shot a video clip of you while riding then post it here for comments or suggestions .

[Jack M]

I use the cross under transition most of the time with some speed to it

usually it happens when i am deep in quick turn, so a low centre of gravity. and the only way out is to pop off the tail and spin my upper body

That's when you need to use cross-through. No upper body spinning needed.

[Guest Randy S.]

Sometimes when it is super-steep, I find I need to rotate everything during a jump turn just to get the board to fully rotate around and get back under me in time to set the edge and prepare for the next jump turn. This happens mostly on real steep, real narrow chutes.

[Neil Gendzwill]

Hmm. I think I'd need to see a video of the OP to comment clearly. But on the tight chutes you're talking about, usually you're moving pretty slow so you can just do a full jump turn. I speculate that he's on edge at speed in a place that's not chute-type steep and headed for the trees without enough real-estate to bring it around in the way he's used to. In that case I think he needs to up-unweight and suck it across (I think that's what Jack meant by cross-through). He might have to stand pretty hard on that edge to get enough oomph to bring it around depending on the situation.

[Guest]

And certain boards are a bit sluggish to release. I'm not familiar with how the mfr rides, but I know the Proton that I use for my rock board is extremely sluggish in this area.

[Allee]

I sometimes have the same problem, when I'm on edge and hit a bump or something a bit harder and faster than the rest of the slope. Then the edge bites really hard and I find myself rocketing across the slope with the board just locked in, and have to either skid out the tail with the back foot, or really throw myself around to get out of it.

My take on what causes it is, I get spooked by the bump, and throw my weight back and onto the snow edge. The extra pressure digs in the tail.

Much less of a problem since I was taught to drive through my knees to change the edge - throwing my knee across the board and centering my weight better helps a lot.

[Fleaman]

I am having problems from releasing my board a carve mostly on the steeps but also on the flatter runs. I have tried everything from de-tuning the tail to setting my stance foward as to not ride the tail. I ride a sims mfr with fire boots.

Just wondering if you need a board with a tighter turning radius. My coiler PR takes a lot of room to turn. On most black diamonds, the runs are too narrow to work it properly.

[NateW]

Halfway through the carve, try angulating more (tipping the board further on edge, without leaning in further) to get the board to turn sharper. That should bring the board underneath you sooner, and allow you to switch edges sooner and more easily.

But really it sounds to me like you're just leaning in too far to begin with. Do that less and see if it helps. :)

[tcross.au]

i think what allee is saying is apart of it, i went for a ride today, some of the problems seem to be the fear of falling, on the flatter groomers i can floor it down with out fear because i know the run back to front. The oomph needed to get the board across is there, as the board has quite a tight radius.

The site posted helped, Thanks for that.

[Guest Randy S.]

If you are scared, there's a good chance you are leaning on your back foot. This will make it impossible to release the edge and turn. Leaning back is often a result of fear. Go faster, so the fear can't catch up. ;)

[tcross.au]

If this is the case, is there much i can do about it? changing the cant disk in the back foot, or more foward lean on boots.

[Mr.E]

If your set up is holding on easier terrain, I'd say leave the set up as is and work on the mental side of your set up.

The vast majority of my riding issues re in my head , so I'm leaving the set up as is and woring on the real problems. Well, thats not entierly true, I'm still working on boot fitting, but I don't see that as strictly a technique issue...

[Guest Randy S.]

If this is the case, is there much i can do about it? changing the cant disk in the back foot, or more foward lean on boots.

If what is the case? My conjecture about leaning too far back? If so, you just need to put more weight on your front foot. Changing your canting might help that a bit, but its mostly in your head and body.

[Guest]

Here's a bit of a drill to work on knowing where your body positioning is. Take 2 or 3 runs, and each run, position your body somewhere different on the board. 1st run start off front-foot heavy. Keep all your weight on that front foot and make turns as you normally would. You'll feel the board is super-hookey from the get-go and your tail might skid a bit.

Next run, do the opposite, put all your weight on your back foot. Really, really lean back. This is how a lot of racers ride, in the backseat. You'll feel that the board isn't nearly as hookey going into turns, and it'll also burn your legs up pretty quickly. I find this is also the perfect position to handle moguls in.

After you do these two runs of extreme body positioning, you need to find out where you're best suited, as it's all personal preference.

[Hans]

If this is the case, is there much i can do about it? changing the cant disk in the back foot, or more foward lean on boots.

I had the same problems too. My problem was that mostly in a backside,

I had too much preassure on my back foot and lean over to the mountain too much. Result: more speed, no control, board was going to skid away, board digs into the snow with the edge, I was falling savely to the mountain. I had to break to push my board away with my backfoot: counterrotation, wrong! wrong! In the beginning I thought I was too heavy for my board, I know better now.

Problemsolver: more weight on my forefoot, bent through your knees, I had to change my mind: no fear to put more weight on your frontfoot. Bent your knees and the result is that you put your weight above your board: result more control.

Just try it first on a flat fast slope. When the feeling is right, you can try it on steeper slopes, it will work!!!

Hope this helps. By the way I ride all my bindings flat, no cants.

Greets, Hans.

http://www.extremecarving.com/tech/tech.html Some link about technique which helped me out partially.