slapos Posted January 28, 2023 Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 (edited) hi all, i keep cracking my t nuts in F2 Race bindings which has become quite annoying. does anyone have a DIN number of a similar product to use instead of original F2s? I could potentially CNC them out of inox or any other material - any recommendations on what material would work best for these? Inox or brass maybe? kindly asking for you inputs thanks Lukasz Edited January 28, 2023 by slapos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted January 28, 2023 Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 (edited) 316 stainless is what I changed out in my UPZ boots to secure Intec heels for strength & corrosion resistance. "Stainless steel 316 grade is highly used for high-temperature applications. This grade has high strength as it includes high nickel chemical composition. The grade consists of a minimum of 10% nickel content, whereas 18/8 (304) consists of only 8% of nickel content. 316 is stronger and more durable than 304." https://www.mcmaster.com/tee-nuts/316-stainless-steel-tee-nut-inserts-for-wood/ If you also change out the phillip head screws to hex head, be careful not to over torque. Not a bad idea to use a loc-tite type product or teflon tape on the threads to help secure. Edited January 28, 2023 by Pat Donnelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapos Posted January 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 hi Pat, these T Nuts with Teeth are for boots - I am looking for to replace T Nuts in the F2 Race bidings with something more durable with more strenght. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted January 28, 2023 Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 When I used to ride F2s I considered these a consumable part and just replaced the whole set every year, and always had a set of spares for any mid-season issues; would give them a quick check every 20 days or so. Have you considered switching over to SG bindings instead of machining your own small parts? Nothing on my SGs has needed replacing since I switched to them 3-4 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapos Posted January 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 Sg bindings currently cost more then twice the price of F2s. For me its not enough evolution in SG bindings to spend that much on plastic/nylon binding. I did own them in the past but sold them. looking at mcmaster carr site i found these two that would possibly fit: https://www.mcmaster.com/90563A640/ https://www.mcmaster.com/90594A370/ anybody can provide inputs if the material of these two would be right to use for this application? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted January 28, 2023 Report Share Posted January 28, 2023 http://www.alpinecarving.com/parts.html maybe Fastenal or a marine hardware supplier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carvin' Marvin Posted January 29, 2023 Report Share Posted January 29, 2023 Yeah that’s part of the F2 life we live. I personally wouldn’t go hunting for alternatives. They are already made of high quality stainless and shaped exactly for the binding. They are disposable and should be treated as such and replaced. Have replacements available and check frequently. I bet I could extrude a brass one through the baseplate like a noodle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted January 29, 2023 Report Share Posted January 29, 2023 Do we know that the F2 tnuts aren’t 316? They are definitely ss, but it is thin material in a very high stress area. Helicoils might have been a better design solution, but oh well. I definitely vote for PZ head screws instead of hex. The only ss hex-head screws that I’ve found for use with the bindings stripped the hex so easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 29, 2023 Report Share Posted January 29, 2023 From a pure materials point of view, there are so many grades of carbon steel that are stronger and tougher than 316 SS. Zinc-plate the steel and the corrosion problem is resolved for the relatively short life of an F2 T-nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban Carving Gooding Posted January 29, 2023 Report Share Posted January 29, 2023 I went through some as well. I haven’t broken any since I backed off of extreme angles. I think high angles put lateral stress on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapos Posted January 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2023 i got 57 52, just i dont think these t nuts handle my landings well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted January 30, 2023 Report Share Posted January 30, 2023 I did order similar weld nuts once, but they are more flimsy than the original F2 nuts. One issue with the T-nuts is that they are loaded at an angle if you place a lift or cant shim. Because of this they will only carry load on one side and deform. Make sure that you do not untighten them and then re-mount/tighten them in a different orientation. Then they will deform to the new orientation each time. Repeated plastic deformation makes cracking more likely. When I installed them, I 'over-tightened' them so that they deform and are properly seated, and then backed off a tiny bit. This makes sure that at least they carry load around their full circumference. I make sure when I check them that I re-install them in the same orientation so they are still properly seated. Make sure to have them tightened properly. Bolt preload is key in preventing fatigue failure. Insufficient torque increases the likelihood of failure. I have considering buying these :https://www.rvspaleis.nl/moeren/hulsmoeren/plattekop-open. They are more solid, but because they are stiffer I think the alignment issue may actually make them worse. Something that allows a bit of alignment would probably be better, e.g. something like this https://www.rvspaleis.nl/moeren/hulsmoeren/verzonken-binnenzeskant , but the countersunk ridge looks a bit small. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cthulhufish Posted January 30, 2023 Report Share Posted January 30, 2023 5 hours ago, TimW said: Make sure to have them tightened properly. Of course, tightening the bolts down shreds the bumps in the heel/toe blocks that are meant to prevent the bolt from backing out. Sigh. I suppose Vibratite VC-3 is the answer to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slapos Posted January 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2023 with all locktite type of products gotta be careful not touch plastic with them, as they can damage it. not sure what to do about these T nuts - all seems assembled correctly, nice and tight, but i have to exchange them at least twice a season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cthulhufish Posted January 30, 2023 Report Share Posted January 30, 2023 I think VC-3 uses MEK, but it's air cured, so the solvent never needs to touch anything but the screw. It's also reusable. That said, for any threadlocker, the manufacturer should publish a list of compatible plastics. They don't all eat all plastics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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