bobble Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 i have a Roe Racing Triton. today i had wheel bite which threw me down hard. nice road rash to the elbow and hand i had tested the trucks in the house, rolling back and forth and pushing the edges. seemed okay. i've rode it a couple times using a land paddle and pumping. i have an arbor with gull wings and had wheel bite only once and fortunately was able to step off the board. i'll definitely tighten the front truck but debating whether i need to add another riser? i don't want to go through that again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordmetroland Posted April 3, 2016 Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 I think the conventional wisdom is to not crank down the kingpin but get a higher duro or thicker boardside bushing. That one looks pretty fat, so I'd go higher duro. Conventional wisdom is also that wheelbite is a cruel and capricious mistress. Hope you're ok! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Raise it! A Bennett can turn quite deep. You'll only need to go another 1/4", I think, to clear the wheels. Of course, going to a wheel a few MM smaller might do it, too. When you check the lean, be sure to be standing on the board, and Tip IT Way Over into the turn. You need your mass and leg strength to determine whether it'll rub, no way can you truly check this just by hand-flexing the hanger... For a replacement (stiffer, same, softer) bushing on the deck-side, look into the taller (.750") ABEC 11 bushings. I seem to recall Riptide also making a tall-as-Bennett bushing, but I don't think their 'chubby' ones are over 5/8" tall? You can also try just fitting a thin washer (I use the Nylon faucet washers with a 3/8" bore, 1" O.D. of 1/8" thickness) between the baseplate and washer under the bushing, but that'll increase your turn geometry a bit, making the front steer just a tad more. If you increase the steering angle, it will give you more steering for a given amount of lean, so a thin Khiro wedge of, say, 3* or 4* would be a good fit here. Don't over-do the wedging, though. Bennetts get 'squirrelly' once the axle is ahead of the pivot cup, and that Wobble is a bad one! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Another flat lift as thick as one you already have should do. Are those the stock Bennett bushings? Those are pretty useless in front truck. They can be used in the rear, but their best use is as.... as a toe stopper. Get better wheels then Tangs if the slalom or pumping was the intention. Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Those are indeed the stock, 90A, Big Bennett Bushings. Toe stopper, eh? Nah, too small, use Vemon Eliminators, the ones that Don't Bounce! LOL Oh, btw, Bobble, if you need to raise it up that extra 1/4", and keep the steering angle you have, you might want to get the old 'thane flat 1/2" risers, like the ones over on oldschoolskates.net. Ozzie may even have them in more than one durometer. They'll both smooth out the ride, but also keep the truck from twisting against the deck while turning (sticky critters). Of course, thin Dooks or Khiro rubber shock pads will do the same, just thinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) A more expensive fix would be these; https://stokedskateboards.com/dont-trip-slalocybins-precision-longboard-truck-set.html My friend Nelson scooped up these last summer for his Turner Summer Ski, and they just were Awesome! We did a bushing kit, and some soft-ish risers of, I think, around 3/8", slapped on some Seismic Ripplers (small, but sticky!), and WOW, the thing just rode great! Best was adjusting the turn angle a click or so to get the rate-of-turn desired, just one allen key, two bolts;Simple! While I'm not sure I'd want to free-dog/slide on these (the baseplate is literally two half-bases; It might tweak under sliding side-loads?), but for carving, or cone-dodging, I think it's a great rendition. BTW, I 1st saw this 'variable' turn idea on J. Gilmour's Turner, with Prototype PVD's, about 15 years ago. Verdone didn't bother to patent it, so GOG and others have tried it since. Edited April 5, 2016 by Eric Brammer aka PSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crote123 Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 What's the main purpose for the Triton? Pumping? If so, you definitely need: Reflex bushings (but that's my personal preference). Bennetts bushing, as previously mentionned, are good toe stoppers and not much else. Khiro wedge kit Risers (shock pads are also recommended) Aircarft grade kingpin replacement (many stories of kingpin breaking, been there, done that. If you are on the lighter side, it's still an issue but much less) BTW, I'm on Don't Trip Poppys front, Seismic G5 back. I've used Bennetts (all lengths even with Surf-Rodz extensions as I use Electric Flys 107mm wheels) and it's a good truck for LDP, it's just that kingpin that's worrysome but then again, I've heard about Poppys also having that issue but not as frequently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobble Posted April 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 thanks everyone for the advice. i ordered a set of risers and shock pads. i'll experiment with the bushings. when i ordered the board it came with a box of Khiro bushings. re: king pin breaking. it never occurred to me this could happen. thanks for the heads up. i have an Arbor with Gullwing trucks and an Insect Dragonfly with Seismics. the only problems i had with those boards was breaking a spring on the Seismics. the board has a Cindrich base plate and with aircraft grade king pin. stoked skateboards swaps the Bennett base plate with Cindrich because Bennett's don't hold up well for LDP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 The Cindrich baseplate has you covered in regards to the kingpin. Should you need to replace it, get a Bowmalloy bolt in Grade 8. When I worked on Rollercoasters, Bowmalloy was what we used to replace any suspect bolts. You broke a Seismic spring? Wow! I've tweaked the baseplates, but never cracked a spring. Sidewinders; If you replace the kingpins, you'll need an Arbor press, and you might want to go 1/4" longer when/if you do. Oh, and the 'ABEC 11' bushings I noted are the "Reflex" bushings Crote noted; I just couldn't recall the brand name , doh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted April 8, 2016 Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) I use all cone bushings on my front bennet 5.0 however I melt 2 cones together orange and blue khiro on the board side to create an hourglass. Blue khiro cone road side. Works so good Edited April 8, 2016 by slopestar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Its simple I just sand or remove the material where the wheel bites... but first return that bennet/ tracker setup & upgrade to poppys you will save yourself a huge waste of money,time & pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Not really. Bennett is the best value for money front truck, for slalom and LDP. It can use some mods, definitely better bushings, but once dieled, the liveliness and surfiness is unsurpassed. We've locally experimented with whole sorts of setups, including very expensive trucks and pretty much evryone settled for Bennett with spherical bearing. As for the rear, I agree, there are better trucks then RTS. Again, one doesn't need to spend tons of money. Seismic and hold your hat :) Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 (edited) I have a pile of stuff from tinkering with bennet for me it all added up to a waste o time& money... when I found out if you turn the bennet hard enough it will twist out of the pivot cup...ouch it hurt Edited April 11, 2016 by nitro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Its simple I just sand or remove the material where the wheel bites... Probably not the wise move with a Roe, as Gareth uses several layers of composites in those (including carbon fiber) . The boards are really thin in select spots, too, so there would be that to consider as well. And, in this case, I think a 1/4" raise, and better bushings will cure the ills nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 I had issues with grinding away at my 220$ deck as well but I got over it... My goal is to lower my deck not raise it. In ldp lower is better and this should be your goal. slalom is NOT ldp confusing these two caused me problems. In ldp I found poppys to be my preference way more stable& comfortable on long rides. add up all the cost of the kits you need to tinker with a bennet ; wedges,bushings,pivot cups,longer hardware,spherical brngs,custom base plate,high grade king pins,washers,not to mention time messn with all this. The bennet/ traker combo is a great starter kit thats all it is. my roe is 4.5 inches tall at the tip& 4.25 at the tail with 80mm wheels & no wheel bite... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEBSIGHT360 Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 +1 for recommending Don't Trip Poppies. I used Bennetts for years on my LDP decks. They are good, and can be modified to be made better, but at the end of the day, they can't touch the performance you get out of the Don't Trip Poppies, and they lower your deck height considerably. If you really want to increase the efficiency of your pump setup, just get these trucks. You will not regret it. If you really like Seismics as a rear truck like I do, just buy a Poppy for the front, and keep the Seismic on the rear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 I can't find a seismic to save my life. Which poppies? Looking to get new trucks and need the best resource. 220 lbs. southern cal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 I can only imagine the efficiency as making a Bennett/rts set up works great for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEBSIGHT360 Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Don't Trip trucks are purchased direct. Go to their site. Contact the owner. Spherical pivots are an option now too. You may want to order a few different duros of bushings to experiment with to dial it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobble Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 I had issues with grinding away at my 220$ deck as well but I got over it... My goal is to lower my deck not raise it. In ldp lower is better and this should be your goal. slalom is NOT ldp confusing these two caused me problems. In ldp I found poppys to be my preference way more stable& comfortable on long rides. add up all the cost of the kits you need to tinker with a bennet ; wedges,bushings,pivot cups,longer hardware,spherical brngs,custom base plate,high grade king pins,washers,not to mention time messn with all this. The bennet/ traker combo is a great starter kit thats all it is. my roe is 4.5 inches tall at the tip& 4.25 at the tail with 80mm wheels & no wheel bite... can you post a picture of your setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) Edited April 12, 2016 by nitro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 hope this helps; I used dremel tool to remove abs & 1layer of wood laminate then sealed with epoxy type paint. note; when I mounted rkp trucks to the holes provided by roe ,,the axles were much closer to each other & this felt odd under foot compared to the tkp . so I also drilled new holes in the board to increase wheel base to 32.5 inches to accommodate the new position of the rkp axles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Wel, Nitro, that doesn't look as bad as I feared it would! But, it also looks like you didn't 'dig' very far, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Im glad I stuck with the dremel, I was prepared to start cuting things up with the jigsaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 Bobbble I also invested i sixone armor to cover forearm to elbow as well as wrist guards that I attached slide pucks to ,, g-form knee pads & g-form shorts...protect yourself from road rash till you iron out the bugs... Roe Triton is a ton o fun 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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