theboarderdude Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 I was riding at my local hill yesterday which 4 inches of pow. My TD2 SIs began to not cooperate after the second run. They would not want to go in to easily. I made sure the heels and toes were clear every time I put in. can anybody help me? has anybody expirenced this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gossamer Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 I'd start with dinner and a good wine, followed by some light conversation. Hopefully things will progress to where you both are more comfortable with each other, make sure you are not too eager to take that next step. The correct selection of music is something you may consider, eye contact is important to give the illusion that you care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddy Tat Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 Look at the toe piece of the bindings. in certain type of snow (spring and wetter snow) I've found that snow will build up in the screw holes/slots of the td3 toe pieces. Eventually this packs into ice and mounds up a little and acts as a fulcrum point under your toe that makes it difficult to get the heel piece down far enough. The snow/ice only has to mound up a couple of millimeters to make it difficult to get the heel to seat. Chipping the ice out of these screw holes/slots with a car key immediately solves the issue for me. It's something I just keep an eye on nowadays. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J0hn Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 My experience has been that the depth of the snow makes no difference. As the previous post states, it's the wetter (warm) snow that can be sticky. Try putting a couple pieces of electrical tape over the bolt holes on the toe piece before you head out. I read this suggestion here on BOL. It's made a big difference for me. Snow on your heel will prevent engagement as well. Install a stomp pad you can scrape against, or just scrape your heel on the heel receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonPablo Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 I've found that snow will build up in the screw holes/slots of the td3 toe pieces. Eventually this packs into ice and mounds up a little and acts as a fulcrum point under your toe that makes it difficult to get the heel piece down far enough. I ran into the same thing, I tried chipping away at the ice will stuff but I learned a precisely calibrated kick with the toe takes the ice off really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 (edited) Dakine "SPIKE" stomp pad helps. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DISCLAIMER : It is important to do this VERY carefully and stay within the correct limits. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I leave the back foot just a little bit looser in fit up. Edited March 2, 2013 by www.oldsnowboards.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 Strange, the above quote did not show up on the thread?-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DISCLAIMER : It is important to do this VERY carefully and stay within the correct limits. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I leave the back foot just a little bit looser in fit up. I do the same with both front and rear. Just check them periodically. Chip off snow and ice on the heel receiver. The trick is making sure you don't step back on the snow after knocking it off. Otherwise, I've been stepping in before putting my foot on snow off the chair. The stuff in the lift maze is usually less likely to stick to the boot than the stuff on top of the hill so the boot is clean enough to get in right off the chair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpalka Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Spray the bindings and boot heels with PAM or another biodegradable oil? Not WD-40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 I noticed you mention you are on TD2. Am I to assume you have the original aluminum version of the heel receiver? If you do, I would HIGHLY suggest upgrading to the steel version we now put on all TD3 bindings. They are compatible with TD2 bindings and we have an upgrade kit here: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/TD3-Step-in-Heel-Replacement-Kit_p_30.html The original aluminum ones are much more "sticky" when it comes to snow and ice. The new steel ones shed snow quite a bit more than the aluminum ones. And also, as mentioned here, make sure you don't have the binding set-up too tight. Try using the "micro adjustment" option and back one lug out one turn. This wil allow your boot to go into the binding just ever so slightly easier, but still be in firmly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Big plus for the steel recievers unreal how much easier things slide together. The Fintec heels are the icing on the cake. Even though the old Intecs were well lubed the Fintecs are twice as easy to release. Also put steel reciever on TD1's using bolts through the plates with locking nuts. Now i need to retro some Cateks with steel Bomber heels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Keep vigilant... those exist and can be found on BOL for sale. I know that's how i found mine. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Not to mention the "Ice Breaker" feature on the TD3 SI steel receivers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger jr Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 I noticed you mention you are on TD2. Am I to assume you have the original aluminum version of the heel receiver?If you do, I would HIGHLY suggest upgrading to the steel version we now put on all TD3 bindings. They are compatible with TD2 bindings and we have an upgrade kit here: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/TD3-Step-in-Heel-Replacement-Kit_p_30.html The original aluminum ones are much more "sticky" when it comes to snow and ice. The new steel ones shed snow quite a bit more than the aluminum ones. And also, as mentioned here, make sure you don't have the binding set-up too tight. Try using the "micro adjustment" option and back one lug out one turn. This wil allow your boot to go into the binding just ever so slightly easier, but still be in firmly. I guess Fin knows what he is talking about? ( Although I believe he finished last at the 2013 SES board build off). +1 on rear binding a hair loose. I've also had snow/ ice build up on top of the toe ledge, which was enough to make it hard to get in. I now always look also to see the pins are in. I thought I was in but wasn't has gotten me a few times. Respect the Homie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 I ride them all the time in powder, generally somewhat deeper than that, although as someone said the depth makes no odds. I usually ride in dry snow, but Whistler for example has wetter stuff. I use F2s although there probably isn't a lot of difference. You sometimes get ice build up under the boot, even in powder, and that can make it impossible to get in. You pick up the habit of kicking the boot soles across the back of the step in (the "receiver") to scrape it off. About once every season you'll get some which you can't see or shift - find a skier with a pole and they can chip it off for you. Mostly it's not an issue. For general knee-deep or more when you've powder all over the bindings and nothing to stand on.... place the board, scoop the snow off the bindings as much as you can, then stick your feet in one by one, trying not to kick too much powder into the hole as you do it. I can usually get straight in, but that's probably experience. Generally the back foot is a bit harder and sometimes I may have a couple of goes at that. If you can't get it to click, I just take the boot out, scrape it on the back of the binding again, scoop the snow out some more, and repeat. Mostly I'm riding snow that doesn't stick, but I do have some silicone spray which is supposed to reduce sticking. If I remember I spray the boots and the bindings with that before a trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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