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Where to find "low cuff" hardboots?


icebiker

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When I ride my Donek Axxess/Race Plates/Track 225's, I find myself struggling in the more mogul-ed up sections of trail that crop up late in the day. Despite the softer flex of these boots, the cuff is high enough that I don't get the flexibility to move the board around quickly in these sections (which I normally would enjoy on my free-ride/softies set up). However, I'm hooked on the easy in, easy out of plates...so tired of softies/straps!

So, once I move to Sidewinders for the Axxess, I'm thinking of putting my Race Plates on my Ride Yukon twin-tip board (ditching my old Burton Torque 3-straps) and using that for late day bumpy stuff or powder days. I would not use this set up for true carving. To this end, I'd like to find a pair of low-cuff hardboots. Was thinking of something like what Damian Sanders used to ride back in the day (Koflach), or some MGX's, or similar.

Any advice out there on what to look for? I've started to comb eBay but figured you guys could give me some other names/models/brands to include in my search strings. FWIW, I'm mondo 31.

Thanks

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When I ride my Donek Axxess/Race Plates/Track 225's, I find myself struggling in the more mogul-ed up sections of trail that crop up late in the day. Despite the softer flex of these boots, the cuff is high enough that I don't get the flexibility to move the board around quickly in these sections (which I normally would enjoy on my free-ride/softies set up). However, I'm hooked on the easy in, easy out of plates...so tired of softies/straps!

So, once I move to Sidewinders for the Axxess, I'm thinking of putting my Race Plates on my Ride Yukon twin-tip board (ditching my old Burton Torque 3-straps) and using that for late day bumpy stuff or powder days. I would not use this set up for true carving. To this end, I'd like to find a pair of low-cuff hardboots. Was thinking of something like what Damian Sanders used to ride back in the day (Koflach), or some MGX's, or similar.

Any advice out there on what to look for? I've started to comb eBay but figured you guys could give me some other names/models/brands to include in my search strings. FWIW, I'm mondo 31.

Thanks

However, I'm hooked on the easy in, easy out of plates...so tired of softies/straps! I've felt this way for 20+yrs.

I use older Raichle 124 for all mt, ie powder/bumps/trees; same shells as 225 but 3buckle w/ a velcro strap in place of the top 4th buckle, far more support in rough terrain than laces/straps and as flexible as driver+flows if in walk mode. I've considered adding a the 4th buckle to improve carve performance but they are awsome in bumps and tight trees/powder and I don't want to give that up. I've ridden wide twins/all mt boards off piste with plates since 92 and I'm surprised more hardbooters won't.

If you dont want to deal with a 2nd set of boots consider a soft strechy booster strap and leave the top buckle open and rear boot in walk mode.

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In case you are really in the market for new boots: UPZ RC8 or UPZ ATB (All Terrain Boot)
The ATB is super-soft, the shell is more like gel. I love my 224s in the conditions you describe, but I think they are the same flex as your 225s. If you want softer you can always add a BTS and use soft springs.
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When I was a kid ski boots were leather and low cut, boy, if I had a dollar for every ankle that broke at the top of those low cut boots;)

Not that I'd go back to low cut boots, but nowadays ski boots are plastic and high cut; boy, if I had a $CURRENCY_UNIT for every tib/fib break at the top of those high-cut boots...

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ATB info: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?34943-2011-2012-Upz-Atb

http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?34848-2011-2012-UPZ-Boots

I recall Dave (Puddy Tat) mentioning that the ATB were almost as flexible as some soft boots. Maybe that was just in-person, can't recall... The red tongues are closer to a sheet of rubber than the tongues that come with the RC-10s.

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Thanks guys. I have tried riding in Powder mode, but not Walk mode...Not sure if that would make a difference since its the forward lean I have the challenge with (e.g. when trying to move the board underneath me, the high cuff prevents me from getting further forward than I'd sometimes like). But could certainly try it.

Typically ride with the upper clamp loose if conditions are soft/bumpy, but haven't tried riding with it completely unclipped..I suppose that could work at least for some trial and error.

Those Dynafits look interesting...I was thinking of ski touring boots, but the ones I've seen in shops have a flexible toe-box (I assume for Tele) which wouldn't do well in a plate binding.

I saw those 13 MGX's on eBay last night...but my experience with Burtons is they run tight and are not easy to get into if you have high arches...I'm a 14 with high arches. The 13's I tried about 10 years ago at Stratton were just too small.

Mountaineering boots perhaps? Also not looking to spend a ton....not like we get a lot of powder on the ice-coast, eh?:(

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You don't need new boots, bindings or boards, just modify your existing 225s to have more flex. I don't recommend low cuff boots and I don't recommend riding in walk mode (but it gives you a good idea of how a boot should flex).

You can:

find a softer tongue

buy a spring system (I recommend the European one)

then do the shell mod (PM me for more details)

And if that's not enough, but should be for most riders, you can then:

sand down the tongue by a mm or two

cut the tongue lengthwise by a cm or two

move the 3rd buckle up by 1cm

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I don't get the aversion some guy's have about riding raichle/deeluxe in walk mode?

yes it means excessive heelside motion but that's the point, I only ride this way in powder and bumps where I want the quicker pivoting this allows(and full range of motion you can't get w/BTS), and only on the back foot unless its bottmles pow; I also ride with the cant adjusters open and this gives me a medial/lateral flex for all mt riding that equates to what I'd get from drivers/flows but with way better on piste perfornce. been riding this pair of shells (124s) for yrs/100s of days with no explosions, death or maiming even on double black bump runs, maybe I just don't ride aggressive enough.

Edited by b0ardski
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clog3.jpg

But seriously, I ride my rear RC-10 in walk mode for everything. Only issue was an ankle injury from stacking up hard last season, but I'm not so sure the boot being in walk mode was at fault. I also injured my knee and hip on the same side from the compression. The ankle was worst of all, but who knows, had it not been for that, the knee or hip may have been worse. Boot is just fine.

I'd try the rear boot in walk mode first, then both. See how you like it.

Edited by dingbat
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You should consider the BTS kit sold here: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/BTS-kit_p_106.html and use it with the yellow springs I think that will help you out. You could also leave the top buckle undone and ride in walk mode that will give you a lot more flex up in your shins and you don't have to spend any money to try it out. UPZ ATB's may also be nice but not worth the money in my opinion and then you will only want to use them days you ride moguls or powder and stuff like that I doubt you would have any fun trying to carve in them.

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I rode low cuffs for 12years. burton "free carve" kinda like dive bombers,I had to put custom molded liners in them cause the original liners gave out after two seasons.

I retired them a few years back& ride the track225's now. use your "walk"mode maybe some spray wax on the buckles& moving parts.

I remember the calf bruises from those low cuffs from the first few rides,till the skin toughened.

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I don't get the aversion some guy's have about riding raichle/deeluxe in walk mode?

I used to ride in walk mode myself, and recommended it wholeheartedly to everyone I could. Then one day I tore all my the ligaments in my ankle. Riding in walk mode is dangerous, end of story. Except maybe for light and careful riding.

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Once again, your collective advice helped a great deal. We got a little over a foot of powder last night at our local NJ hill (Mtn Creek). After some toying around, I found the following set up worked perfectly for the bumps:

1) both boots in powder mode (not walk)

2) front boot top buckle looser

3) rear boot top buckle completely unengaged, buckle below it barely tensioned.

Thanks again.

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