pogokoenig

Scorpion - The godfather of symmetrical raceboards. Phantastic boards. Loved the orange 95/ 976 version the most. Way more fun than the GT which came out in that year. Also liked the 94/95 Epic and even more the Cam which came out 96. This one felt a bit like a premature Virus Lightning. It's a shame that Nitro stopped making these beauties.

awesome pictures!

Exactly this! Wth more experience I recognize the point from which one it doesn't get any better. This is the time to quit and head to the bar. Yes, and there is always "the" last run - but only recognized at the bottom. It always gives me kind of melancholic feelings especially when it was the last run of the season.

88° side and 0.25° base. Whereas 0.25 on the base is probably not doable at home. Therefore I always do 88° side and 0.5 base. Works just fine.

If money isn't an issue. Then i can highly recommend the new Virus Avalanche AFT in 176cm. It's a bad ass carving board with the shape of an all-mountain deck. With 100+kgs you have to live with only average powder capabilities. But other than that: A mindblower.

You will be impressed, how much effect "pedaling" has. You can even do turns with only pedaling (and of course inclination, which is the only tool, that must be involved in any turn). As such I consider it just another tool next to rotation, angulation, forward-backward movement and vertical movement. Easy and intuitive to learn and apply.

This sounds way too complcated for me. I try to keep things easy. Why not going step-by-step? After initiating the turn and getting on edge, move your knee slowly but steadily towards the center of the turn. You will definetely feel the effect, because you have time throughout the whole turn. If you are comfortable, then start twisting the front part. See what happens. I could guess, if it is possible at all, it has very little effect and will cause you trouble with the timing.

It is just another tool to influence your turn. Try it out. You can get the extra bit of edge hold (on icy conditions for example). Just try to bring your rear knee towards the center of the turn. Toesides and Heelsides. It has an angulating effect on your board. And it's fun.

Are you saying, you ride a high-end setup with plates and the whole shabang and the boots don't fit? Are you further saying you would be in need for a carvin basics training? I'd definetely recommend to meet with other carvers. It's going to be very diffiicult to help you via the forum.

Very much agree. Had the same issue the frist time I switched to a modern shaped carving board with decamber. I had mounted the bindings centrally (taking inserts as reference) as a starting point. Copmared to the traditional non-rocker board the bindings were set back - or better - there was more board in fron of me. In order to compensate this i automitaclly had put more weight on the front foot with the result of washing out. The problem has been resolved by two things: - Took the rear binding a bit backwards which has put my COG more backwards - Since I was aware of the issue I adapted my riding. Less pressure on the front foot. It is definetely worth a try.

I'd consider powder in Colorado a luxury problem. Not sure, if I could cope with it more than once a year.

Totally agree! Carving is nothing but the best subsititute for powder! No friends on Powder days. Whereas in the meantime i prefer powder on hardboots. It is like cutting the filet mignon with a japanese chef knife. It makes life much easier. You start the day on fresh powder and after the powder is tracked and rutted up you can just switch to the slopes without changing gear.

I tried the piano once but my instructor threw me out after i have tried to sharpen the edges with 88°. I hear what you are saying and agree with most of your statements in your post. But aren't these just very obvious things?

The best exercise for carving is .... carving! You can do a lot in the gym or on the bike or on your running course. The only result is, that you push yourself further. The pain is the same at the end. Somehow, it's part of the fun.

Some very good posts. Fully agree with Puddy Tat's opening post. This does also tie in very nicely with the skiboots on a snowboard thread -only there people are of a different opinion. Of course on a race course or in Colorado conditions overstiffs setup might work. But: isn't it part of the fun to have some freedom in your movements - to vary techniques, styles and conditions? Sunsurfer: Very interesting pictures. Your conclusion seems to work for you. Would be interesting to see with different foot angles. I am huge friend of flexible setups combined with a strong muscular basis that can provide stiffness whenever needed (rather than just stiffen up the setup and let it do the work.)

BlueB: What I mean is: The boot follows the rotational movement of the knee. Almost all skiboots do not. They are just rigid. You cann probably press your calf and shin against the boot but it won't move much. There might be models, that allow such movement, but I'd guess these are not the standard you see every day our there. And then you still have the issue with the long sole. Beckmann: I'd like to see the performance of these riders with skiboots on the hill. Then let them try a well fitted hardboot. Will be a whole different league. Quote:"...their skill using all tools involved..." I agree with your point. Then why not using the right tool?

Second that! Ski boost are made for skiing. Despite the sole length there is the issue of not-flexing and no rotational movement of the knee can be translated into boot, binding and board. Some touring boots have that forward flex, but this is not the case here. Ski boots are made for skiing.

Aaargh, that hurts. Cannot make it this time and now this video.

Voted for the two obvious things: Top Sheet Graphics and Price. It must look fancy and it must come at a prohibitive price! Who cares how it rides?

I find 65/60 extremely steep for this board. I ride on something like 40/ 55 on these boards. The 55° are more or less a given on wide boards. The back foot angle is determined by board width and can as well be 30 or 35°. I'd go with slightly lower angles and apply the 1.5° cant fronat and rear as a starting point. See where that goes and fine tune later. If you want to keep the 65/60 go with heel and toelift.

The question is: What are your angles? If I remember correctly you are rding a Virus Avalanche. Rule of thumb: The lower your angles the more you go towards cant. The higher the angles, the more you go towards heel- and/ or toelift. The wider your stance the more lift or cant you can (but not: need to) apply. Having back and front foot equally lifted/ canted keeps you centered between the bindings. Many people like a huge cant/ lift in the rear foot. Thsi brings your weight forward but puts stress on your quads especially on shorter boards and softer snow. To answer your specific question: On my wideboards (>23cm (10inches) middle), I ride flat. On narrow boards with angles more than 60° I ride 3° heel- and toelift.

I'd sell it for 700€ which translates into roughly 950USD. But since I am not joining SES this year I guess it's anyway too much hassle (shipping, taxes etc). Some pics can be found here: http://www.frozen-backside.de/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=5021&highlight=narrow or here:

It's green! Love it already.

Would you be interested in a UFC narrow in 183 built for a 200lbs guy? Very good condition only 6 days of riding. it's a speed machine perfect for Colorado conditions.

You can approach your problem from several sides. One is of yourse a surgery, but I wouldn't go with that as the first option. If I were you (and in a certain sense I am, because I also have (had) shoulder problems) I would work like that: 1. Strenghtening your rotators and certainly your whole mechanical system. Gymnastics, stretching and for sure do some heavy weightlifting (proper technique is a must, but then go heavy). With heavy, I mean progressive with 6-12 repeats in a set. Kata based martial arts are a very good exercise as well. 2. adopt your riding technique: Either you ride a style that prevents snow contact like race style or more the classic Bomber style - or - you still lay it out and touch the snow but keep your arm in a safer position. That means: put it more forward in your riding direction - not upwards towards the center of the turn. Only touch the snow with the lower part of the palm - near the joint, keep your fingers up. Of course no weight on the hand. 3. External support - like Pokkis 4. Surgery 5. Stop Snowboarding