barryj Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 In tighting up my plate bindings I've noticed that it is making a concave dimple on the running side of my boards. Is there a recomended lbs. of torque I should go by?? Am I over torquing the bindings? Should I even worry about this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 Make'em snug, check periodically, no worry ! What you see is called binding suck nothing to worry about unless you see the dimple change shape or size. Boards are laminates of glass wood metal epoxy etc. If you overtighten you run the risk of fracturing the bonds between these layers and weakening the laminate, undertightening and the parts slop around. My rule is snug not tight as you really don't want to deal with broken or stripped inserts. (inches of torque don't even get close to a pound of torque). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 Binding suck is common with plate bindings and many soft boot bindings. The key to keeping it from becoming a problem is to loosen or remove your bindings when you hot wax the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 I want something like this.... but clicks at much less torque/lb(in). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetaTre Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 I've bought a torque screw driver from Harbor Freight and I set it at about 25/30 in/lb. Since it's a low torque and I have the softer D3 elastomer, I use blue treadlock to avoid it coming loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 You should check with your board manu before using threadlock, most recommend against it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetaTre Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 You should check with your board manu before using threadlock, most recommend against it. I can see the red permanent creating problems (i.e. the inserts possibly spinning around), but I've never had a problem with the blue. On the the other hand, without it I've always had problems: either the bolt come loose or I have to torque it more and the inserts getting sucked in... But thanks for the heads up, though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 (edited) Bolts can fracture from a low-torque just as easily as from a high torque. Bolt fatigue is extremely complex and sometimes non-intuitive. If you're going to run very low torques, consider changing them every couple of years to be sure. I snug mine up pretty tight with a T-handle wrench. No idea what that is on a torque wrench. ;) Seeing the SES demo tent board swaps changed my thoughts on acceptable torque, they snug them up tighter than I ever had before. For the TD2/TD3, you can feel once the E-ring has compressed and the center disc touches the board - the torque/rotation curve ramps up quickly. I go probably 1/8th turn past that point. It's very important to get that center disc in firm contact with the board! Edited October 11, 2012 by corey_dyck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 I can see the red permanent creating problems (i.e. the inserts possibly spinning around), but I've never had a problem with the blue. On the the other hand, without it I've always had problems: either the bolt come loose or I have to torque it more and the inserts getting sucked in...But thanks for the heads up, though Maybe Fin's opinion has changed since 2004 when he wrote this: post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvingchef Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 i think some people are getting confused with "Loc-tite" and "thread lock" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 i think some people are getting confused with "Loc-tite" and "thread lock"Then kindly educate us. Fin's note warns specifically against blue Loc-tite, which seems to be the product ZetraTre is using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvingchef Posted October 11, 2012 Report Share Posted October 11, 2012 (edited) i think "thread lock" by definition is not supposed to be removable, there are different company who make thread lock, "loctite" is a brand of thread locker and they have the blue kind (removable) and the red kind (permanent) maybe they just use different name for the same thing or the same name for different things but here is what Fin said in that particular post We do use Loc-tite #242 (blue) on the threads of the Shoulder Bolt and don't forget, a little grease on the shoulder makes the action nice and smooth. We DO NOT recommend thread lock on the screws into the board. brand new Td3 come with blue loctite on their center disc screws Edited October 11, 2012 by carvingchef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted October 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2012 So I probably shouldn't be using a 1/8 inch socket style wrench that I can get more torque from and stick to hand torque from a screwdriver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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