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Stance Angle


WASMAN

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I have just acquired a new board and now have 6 in the quiver. They range in width from a 15.5 Madd to a 23.5 Swoard. Here is my dilema: do I adjust my stance angle to keep it just below 'boot out' on each board. This would vary my angle by more than 10 degrees from narrowest to widest board. Or do I keep it more or less the same and have a higher stance angle on the wider boards to keep my stance more or less the same?

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I have just acquired a new board and now have 6 in the quiver. They range in width from a 15.5 Madd to a 23.5 Swoard. Here is my dilema: do I adjust my stance angle to keep it just below 'boot out' on each board. This would vary my angle by more than 10 degrees from narrowest to widest board. Or do I keep it more or less the same and have a higher stance angle on the wider boards to keep my stance more or less the same?

Put your stance at the correct angle for every given board. Underhang sucks almost as much as overhang.

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I try to put the Front Toe bail in the exact same place for each board.. no matter what the width-- that is to say not the same angle.. but the same toe position over the board edge.. and then I use a -7° ±1° for the rear binding.. Keeping it simple in my simple mind.. so to speak.

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Think about it, if you don't you'll end up booting out on one board, or not being able to pressure the edges as quickly on another (slower edge to edge, more effort to ride). I think you'll adapt to the different angle within a run or two.

I once did something pretty dumb and ordered a custom 13" wide board (soft boot), to completely eliminate overhang and be able to ride 0 angles. There was so much board, I had a couple of cm's clearance between the end of my boot and the edge of the board. It took everything I could throw at it to get it on edge. It was physically tiring to ride.

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I once did something pretty dumb and ordered a custom 13" wide board (soft boot), to completely eliminate overhang and be able to ride 0 angles. There was so much board, I had a couple of cm's clearance between the end of my boot and the edge of the board. It took everything I could throw at it to get it on edge. It was physically tiring to ride.

The above example -- is why I see a lot of "wide" boards in used or second hand stores.. like Play it again Sports... a friend of mine was going to do the same thing above.. I said rent/demo a wide board first -- you'll see they are not so great unless of course you have 24" of Utah powder under you.

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Think about it, if you don't you'll end up booting out on one board, or not being able to pressure the edges as quickly on another (slower edge to edge, more effort to ride). I think you'll adapt to the different angle within a run or two.

I once did something pretty dumb and ordered a custom 13" wide board (soft boot), to completely eliminate overhang and be able to ride 0 angles. There was so much board, I had a couple of cm's clearance between the end of my boot and the edge of the board. It took everything I could throw at it to get it on edge. It was physically tiring to ride.

crazy!

what was it?

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I have 3 different alpine boards. All three have different waist widths raning from 18 cm - 23.5 cm. I have all set up so toe and heel are aligned on the edge. I can switch between the boards and have no problems carving any of them. A couple of turns and they feel comfy again. Go for optimum performance.

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I have 3 different alpine boards. All three have different waist widths raning from 18 cm - 23.5 cm. I have all set up so toe and heel are aligned on the edge. I can switch between the boards and have no problems carving any of them. A couple of turns and they feel comfy again. Go for optimum performance.

Same here.

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