kjl Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Grade 5 bolt , save the Ikea bull$hit , ok? If anything it strengthens the binding. Not that it is needed. Hey, hey, Bryan, the "ikea" comment wasn't meant as a dig at the quality - just as a descriptor of how (I think) it is going together: The "standard" 90 degree connection on ikea's wooden furniture has 1) a little cylindrical plug which has a threaded hole drilled sideways through the side of the plug. You stick this plug into a little hole in the side of one piece of furniture. Then 2) the real bolt goes in from the side into the threaded hole in the plug. I think they do that so they can get metal threads inside a particle board surface where it would normally not be easy to stick a t-nut or something else. It sounds like you did the same thing? Just trying to figure out exactly how you modded it... I don't know anything about machining or woodworking, so I have no idea what the real name for that connection is called. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Excellent idea but you may have to explain it a few more times for the engineers to understand it. The longer bale bolts give more meat for the heel reciever bolts. The ones comming in from the top. Good tinkering :biggthump:biggthump:biggthump:biggthump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjl Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 I don't know anything about machining or woodworking, so I have no idea what the real name for that connection is called. Ah, they are called cross dowels: Seems like the mod is more accessible for somebody like me if I used some 5/16" cross dowels since I do not have the equipment to tap a bolt like yours precisely (or at all), assuming the cross dowel hole is the right size. Also, it would make it so you would not have to tap any threads in the heel sidewinder heel block either - you could rely solely on the cross dowel...? Would be a pain in the butt to remove and reinstall the heel block, though - the cross dowels would wander around in there and you'd have to line them up again. I guess you don't do that very often, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 ... is also the thingy that you see in the centre of the F2/Blax/Proflex toe/heel blocks. Also on the underside of the Snowpro toe/heel. It is funny how the people not familliar with the F2s always go for that bolt in attempt to change the binding length and then they are bewildered by the fact that it won't turn :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0ardski Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Hey Bryan, why are you only using SW on the rear? Just for testing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert tucker Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 i had the oppertunity to ride with bryan for a bit at mhm last wensday on his new td3sw mods. this guy knows what the f he is doing! smooth perfect carving through all conditions!! good job bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pow4ever Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Can one use grade 8 bolt? If it's good enough for my engine :) or is there some concern for grade 8 bolt being brittle? i don't have the balls to drill/mod pair of $350 binding; but awesome mod!!! backyard tinkering at it's best. Come on Bomberonline TD3 SW SI. -- David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Anybody know if/when an official bomber sidewinder SI version is coming out? I've heard only good things about the standard sidewinder but I'm not giving up my SI's... I was one of about 1 thousand* people that asked Fin about that at SES. I get the feeling he's working on it but it's a challenge. If you're comfortable going higher off the board and adding weight like Bryan did it's not too hard. Knowing Fin he wants to optimize things to be lighter and lower while still allowing for a full range of easy adjustment. * A thousand inquiries might be a little high. Almost any time anyone was talking about the Sidewinder someone piped up to request a step-in version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Hey Bryan, why are you only using SW on the rear? Just for testing? I currently have modified bindings, this means taking 4 perfectly good TD3 bindings and making TWO modded TD3 SW SI bindings. As a result I am using them were I find they work the best for me. Yes, I am trying numerious combinations to find the optimum for my needs. After using the original TD3 SW in front and my modded SI in back. I felt like I was giving up a bit more board angle than I cared to do on the better condition days. This likely being the combination of the Std bindings, SW, TD3 Cant plate with blue elastomer providing a bit more "Give" than I wanted under some conditions. Add to this I still had sever pair of TD3 SI (non SW) bindings to use. Long answer to a short question. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Would be a pain in the butt to remove and reinstall the heel block, though - the cross dowels would wander around in there and you'd have to line them up again. I guess you don't do that very often, though... Not when it is a solid bolt traversing the toe/heel block. The "halved" bolt head acts as a knob so to speak. It can be removed easily if the modded bindings is returned to it's original configuration. I have not been in a IKEA store yet, although there is one a mile from work. I have gotten the impression it is good value , yet perhaps lower quality furniture? That paired with "Sketchy" doesn't sound like what I am typically associated with. Fair and healthy critical thinking is welcome. Anything less, is well, gone. Thanks for your explaination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjl Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Not when it is a solid bolt traversing the toe/heel block. The "halved" bolt head acts as a knob so to speak. It can be removed easily if the modded bindings is returned to it's original configuration. I have not been in a IKEA store yet, although there is one a mile from work. I have gotten the impression it is good value , yet perhaps lower quality furniture? That paired with "Sketchy" doesn't sound like what I am typically associated with. Fair and healthy critical thinking is welcome. Anything less, is well, gone. Thanks for your explaination. Oh, I didn't even notice I wrote "sketchy" :) It looks like before you added the cross bolt the bolts holding the heel receiver down would only get ~2 thread turns in the Sidewinder before it encountered open air (the hole for the heel bail) and then ~2 turns on the other end. I thought that looked "sketchy" since it looks like ~3-4 turns in what is the thinnest section of the sidewinder heel block. But with those 3-4 turns PLUS the threads in the cross bolt it should be even stronger than the original bail configuration. Yeah, I have no doubt it is easy to line up the crossbolt on your mod - I was just pondering: if I did this mod myself, I would probably buy 2 crossdowels per binding since I don't have the ability to tap a bolt precisely like you, in which case I would have the problem of wandering crossdowels if I ever removed the heel block. Heh, having seen your boards and your riding, I'm sure whatever you do is overkill for me - I don't put nearly as much power in the board and I weigh probably ~60% of you :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Do you notice or feel flex in your boots between heel and toe ?? Do you think independent flex between these two points could create issues with boot failure?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Do you notice or feel flex in your boots between heel and toe ?? Do you think independent flex between these two points could create issues with boot failure?? No, I don't. This of course doesn't mean there isn't any. However, I do not see, feel or hear any sign of movement in the boots. Related side note. I DO however notice that getting in is even smoother. I believe this is due to the SW flex. As I put my toe in and step down, the heel movement helps in fact to make up for any miss-alignment I have created while stepping in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 I will probably restore one pair of these to their original configuration and sell them. Look for this in the sale thread soon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Have you tried them on the Tanker/powder? What do you think the difference in flex between the SW and F2's? Full of questions today I am. This is an excellent question. I can say now that the modded TD3 has a similar , maybe not quite as much range of motion as the F2 binding. The TD3s lateral flex is similar however the toe /heel is non existent in comparison. I think the F2 probably will continue to be my choice for the powder setups. I am ready to build the next mod of the TD3SW SI . This will be lower and more work. I did not like the added height of my first version. I would prefer to not have two different binding systems. It would be ideal if all my boards had the cants mounted and I could just swap the top plates around. This is what I have been doing on my alpine gear for years. Nearing a point where I can simply swap my plate around with bindings already mounted and ready. This would be sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I wonder how close Fin is to producing an official TD3 SW SI??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddy Tat Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I wonder how close Fin is to producing an official TD3 SW SI??? OMG OMG OMG. I'm hoping for next season. I still think these would be amazing for AM riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terryw Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Crossed fingers here as well!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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