valsam Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 I saw this video http://hardbooter.net/blog/?p=147 and since i have broken 3 non metal boards already (all 3 from bad landings after jumps,2 in the front toe side binding area and one in the tail)i don't own a metal board but only 2 glass and 2 carbon ones and since i am a heavy rider (250 pounds!) boards break like toothpicks under my feet! My current favorite ride is glass and has a little too much soft flex and last year i posted a thread thinking of applying a carbon sheet over the top sheet but after reading stuff from people in here i realized that it was a complicated procedure that was above my skills ! But now after seeing this video and also these: http://www.catek.com/snowboard-binding-spacers.htm It seams pretty easy making a couple of them but i have 1-2 questions and if anyone would help it would be OK,so: 1)Do these sort of raisers-spacers give extra stiffness to the board? 2)If a carbon sheet like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Carbon-Fibre-Sheet-2-6x170x150-mm-100-Carbon-Fiber_W0QQitemZ220432726630QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item3352d07a66 was used would it give better protection and ad MORE stiffness than LEXAN or polypropylene? 3)Do these spacers increase the presure on the screws-inserts and therefore increase the risk of riping then off? 4) Hardbooter say's that on there sait there is a pdf pattern to download but i can't find it !Is the pattern necessary or do i just cut one out something like catek"s? I AM ALL EARS!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 so, you could add a layer of carbon and make a madd ripoff would make the board stiffer. a guy in worcester did that with a longboard and mounted the pre-cured carbon sheet to the board with gorilla glue has been on the board for a season now with no delam. just a idea, I'd opt for epoxy but who knows... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted November 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 No! the idea of making a "madd ripoff" has gone! Problems like messy glue issues and no camber of the pre-cured carbon sheet that would eliminate the boards camber would not work! I am asking if making 2 separate plates with no glue like the cateks or the ones that hardbooter shows in the vid (not one big piece over both holes like the Madd's or the tinkler's)would help in protecting the board and provide a little stiffness too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave ESPI Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml ANTON GLIDER SKIS were working on a board dampening system based on this. You need to be looking into some devloping sort of recurved bow toploaded spring system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~tb Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 lets see if i can answer your questions. 1) the shape of these is designed to try to minimize the impact to the flex of the board. shapes could be made to increase stiffness of the board. . .but you would have to camber the plates. same problem you ran into before. 2) that carbon is only 2.6mm thick. i can do the math on monday, but i think the 1/4 inch lexan will be stiffer as strength goes by thickness^3. what is the flexural modulus of carbon and lexan? i have seen these before and am reluctant to use them for anything structural. if you want carbon, i would find a cored laminate with a fairly dense and robust core. just use lexan. 3) if you try to minimize the impact to the boards flex, you really dont increase the load on the screws. if you have a plate that makes the board feel any stiffer, it will likely increase the load on the screws. the stiffer you make it, the greater the force. 4) when catek released their plates and everyone was breaking metals, they made a template available. here it is (thanks jeff and crew at catek!): http://www.catek.com/resources/FRS_RS_dimensions.pdf Print out on 11X17 paper. check the measurements referenced on the drawing to make sure its 1:1 before cutting. once cut out, remember to lightly bevel the bottom edge. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 So i went looking for a polycarbonate sheet today )and i only found it in 3mm but the guy told me where i could probably find a 5mm (he also said that LEXAN is just a name and the all polycarbonate sheets are mostly the same)if i don't then i will use the 3mm witch looked pretty thick and ok for the job! I am thinking of making a conshox ripoff (without the pointy ears,more like 2 catec spacers that attach together)from the polysheet and applying it just screwed with the inserts , heating it up with a heat gun first on the board so it can get the boards camber and then marking the holes and then screwing down without epoxy or any sort of gluing! Something like this: What do you think of my idea ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 If you do that, you would need to make shure that one side is able to slide back and forth under the binding. Otherwise, you'll get funny buckling of Lexan as the board bends into the arc. As you are not really looking to stiffen the board, the "bridge" between 2 plates is not really required. Then, if you still wanted to stiffen the board, glueing the plate (as you designed it0 to the board would add thiny bit of stiffness between the bindings and will prevent the sheet from buckling away from the board. Yes, Lexan is just a trade name for polycarbonate. Same with Macralon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 BlueB nailed it. If you rigidly attach it under both bindings it'll put huge stresses into the mounting bolts or buckle the plate. That's why the fancy racing plate systems have floating bolts. Take a phone book and bend it into an arc, notice the end that isn't bound deforms as the pages slide over each other. The same thing happens on your board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted November 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 When you say buckling what do you mean ? Is it like a gap betwean the board and lexon? Sorry i was born in the states but left at the age of 14 and my english is very rusty! Yes i would like to add some stiffnes but avoid glue! If i understand corect the "FLEXONSHOX" when bent will have to slide at the back binding a little forward ! But how will that work if the binding is pressing on it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted December 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 After reading this post : http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=23497&highlight=spacers It seams like the spacers don't do miracles! I am thinking of using the 3mm polycarbonate (the 5mm might hurt the board rather than protect it because of the less flexibility the 5mm has!)and giving each spacer a butterfly sort of shape and cutting them longer than the 26,7 that the cateks have,for better stress distribution! But what happens in between the spacers guys? Doesn'T the middle of the board take more loads? It seams to me like 2 thumbs trying to snap a stick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 When you say buckling what do you mean ?Is it like a gap betwean the board and lexon? Sorry, I missed this... Buckling means the plastic sheet will fold up away from the board between the bindings. This might be enough to damage the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted December 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 I got a sheet 2m X 20cm of polycarbonate "marlon fsx" 4mm thick from a guy that makes parking shades today,he gave it to me for free,and its time to experiment! This is something like the shape i am going to cut the spacers: Because my board (Oygen F2002) has a pattern on the top sheet that raises above about 1-2mm (a pattern like the Tinkler-Kildy flex)and i am thinking o following that pattern for better stress distribution and probably gain just a little stiffness!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Soze Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Sorry to bump this old thread, but has anyone ever considered using Teflon rather than Lexan for the plates? If this seems ridiculous, could you please elaborate on the issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Sorry to bump this old thread, but has anyone ever considered using Teflon rather than Lexan for the plates?If this seems ridiculous, could you please elaborate on the issues? people use cutting boards, any rugged plastic should work fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Soze Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 people use cutting boards, any rugged plastic should work fine Ahhh thanks. Any particular reason people seem to prefer Lexan though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Ahhh thanks. Any particular reason people seem to prefer Lexan though? Use the search, Luke... reach out with your questions. http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17336&highlight=lexan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojogreen Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I used HDPE plastic. This stuff is used in the sushi kitchens and is very strong. I drilled holes in it and got longer screws at the hardware store. It has worked pretty well so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I used HDPE plastic. This stuff is used in the sushi kitchens and is very strong. I drilled holes in it and got longer screws at the hardware store. It has worked pretty well so far. Ditto. I used 1/2" HDPE to make adapters to put 4-hole bindings on a 5-hole board and it worked fine. It was a bit heavy, but a lot of the weight was from having two sets of really long screws holding things together. If this chain has a location near you, I highly recommend them: http://www.tapplastics.com/ They've helped me out with a bunch of small odd projects like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin42 Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I wanted to try a lift to the bindings so I did what we all have done. I researched and then found Billy Bordy's DIY video but could not find the template he mentioned. So I just followed the sides of my board. For Cateks a 3/8 inch spacer used 6 x 25 mm flathead SS screws. For 1/2 inch spacer I am planning on useding 6 x 30 mm flathead SS screws. shorter screws will fit but as noted earlier, I wanted to have as many threads as possible because of the increased load on the screws when the board decambers. One trick I found was to use the baseplates to mark (and here is the important part) and drill them before marking the plates (and cutting) flush with the sides of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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