egibbons Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 I just picked up a Madd 170 and I need to start to think about setup. I have never ridden one of these and I have no idea how to start binding placement. I have heard these boards are a bit different than a lot of boards and I would assume this would translate into binding positions as well. I am 6' and weight 145lbs, what would you guys recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekdut Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 I've ridden many Madd 170s. Ride slightly forward of center. I usually used the middle set of holes on each front/back, shifted forward one notch on TD bindings. That worked for me with a 30" inseam, but you might need slightly more width since you're taller than me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egibbons Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Truth is, I have long legs (I inseam is around a 35"), however I am pretty dang skinny (I can fit in a pair of size 4 women's jeans. Now for the question of "why do you know that?"...I was shopping with a friend and I needed to prove that I could wear the same size as her...she didn't appreciate it), so I have never really known what the optimal width is. I seems as if I rode my Volkls and F2's at a 18" stance width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekdut Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 You should definitely go wider. Since you're legs are so long, you may be able to use the forward holes on the front set, and the middle on the rear. I don't have a 170 in front of me at the minute to check how long that actually is though. With a 35" inseam, you should be able to run 21 inches or so with reasonable lifts/cants on your bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeoffV Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I seems as if I rode my Volkls and F2's at a 18" stance width. At 6ft 18" stance is way to narrow, you should be at least at 19.5 I'm 5'11" and ride 20.5. Start on the center inserts front and rear and go from there. If you're finding it difficult to turn move the front binding forward a tad. Madds like to get front loaded to hook up a turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egibbons Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Wow. Thanks for the fast responses. You guys are great. Someone mentioned steeper angles. I usually ride about 56 and 54. I know the Madd is a lot skinnier than my F2s. I just got some 27.5 Heads so I will have a shorter sole than I had before and I'll probably swipe my dad's OS2's (I had to run long plates for my AF700's) so I'll also have a normal plate. What would you recommend for angles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nekdut Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Wow. Thanks for the fast responses. You guys are great. Someone mentioned steeper angles. I usually ride about 56 and 54. I know the Madd is a lot skinnier than my F2s. I just got some 27.5 Heads so I will have a shorter sole than I had before and I'll probably swipe my dad's OS2's (I had to run long plates for my AF700's) so I'll also have a normal plate. What would you recommend for angles? You'll be able to run low 60s or high 50s without any overhang with 27.5 heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban Carving Gooding Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Madds ride great when your on the nose. Just remember that's true on hard pack. Does Park City have hard pack? Softer pack you can bury the nose and do a superman. I'm 5'9" last season went out 18 3/4 Ft 70 r65 boots 27.5 . On softer pack i keep everything the same i just don't pressure the nose stay center or back a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egibbons Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 PC does have hard pack - depending on the season. I spent my formative snowboarding years (when I was 7th-10th grades - 2000-2003) when Utah was in a drought and it was pretty hard every week. That's why I picked up alpine in the first place; off piste sucked to the point it wasn't worth my time. Here I am several years later. Last year was an okay year in my opinion. I had some great powder days, but considering the fact that since I am a student I am relegated to Saturdays. If it dumps on Friday, that's great and I take my old Supermodel out. However, that rarely happens. Bottom line: off piste sucks to the point I find myself on the groomers. Then again, that is a matter of perspective. I have never skied outside of Utah and so I can't really appreciate "true" boiler plate that I would find other places. I guess I am ignorant on that matter. I'll see in a few weeks (hopefully, earliest PC opening I have seen was 2003-2004 ski year which was first week of November). I did miss the 2007 and 2008 seasons (in Taiwan), so I can't add that to my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban Carving Gooding Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 You will love the board. I have 3 well 2 a friend lets me use his whenever I want. Thanks Marv {He is A lurker}. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBrad Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I am 6' and weight 145lbs, what would you guys recommend? I'd recommend a big sandwich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egibbons Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I enjoy a good sandwich. Actually, I wouldn't dropping a bit of weight even still as it is good for cycling in the summer. Not so much for carving though... I read on the Carver's Almanac that the Madd's require extra long insert screws. Is this true? I don't mind doing that, I have cut custom long insert screws for other boards like that (like my first Volkl 158), I just would like to know so I can run out tomorrow after school and get the hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 ...you should be fine with the stock screws Unless it's one of the original Madds with brass inserts, assuming the 170s were available like that. You want as much screw as possible for those as the brass is much softer than conventional stainless steel inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmut Karvlow Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 It does depend on how you ride, but for the most part they do like to ride on the nose. at least mine does. and for god sakes mix in some Big Mac's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban Carving Gooding Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I use longer screws in my non brass inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeoffV Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I thought the longer screws were just needed for Cateks. TD's are fine on the Madds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban Carving Gooding Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I use F2 Race Titanium. The stock screws worked fine I never had a problem. When all the buzz about longer screws hit I gave it a try. I went one size longer and used washers. I did gain 3 or 4 more threads. I herd the talk and did not want to chance not doing it. Maybe one of the engineers can advise us on the proper or minimum amount of insert that should be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shred Gruumer Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Hard pack out west... thats an Oxy Moron! NOOOOOO! :eek::eek:.. They are really spoiled out there.. yep envy!!! RSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egibbons Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Cutting new screws is not a huge issue for me. When I did it before I just plumbed the insert with a micrometer and cut to length. I could do a better job this time around as I now have access to my school's MechE machine shop. Is it a necessary with plain OS2's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 So, after reading this, I'm not sure. Are longer screws needed for OS2's on a Madd 170? If so, do they have to be cut down from the next longer length screw? That sounds like a tall order to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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