carvedog Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Anyone else doing this? When I am finishing my boards by hand, I use my typical one degree base and one degree edge bevel. At least underfoot that is. If really icy ( I know, I know it doesn't happen often here but ...) I might go to a 2 degree side bevel. When it comes to the base bevel I taper it progressively the further it gets away from my feet. More taper on the nose than the tail. Keep in mind that this is on a 197 so if you are riding a 157 you don't have so much room to play with this. So under foot I leave it at 1 degree at 8 or 10 inches in front of my foot I am at 2 to 3 degrees. I do the same on the tail but to a lesser degree. Maybe ending up with a max of of 2degree base bevel. Seems to make my boards a little easier to release and a little less hooky during initiation. I know a lot of you don't tune your own,. Just curious if anyone has played with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Come on guys, 55 page views and nobody even has an opinion. Maybe my death defying logic has stupefied everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Sounds like you're trying to give your board the properties of a modern Coiler, Prior Metal, Kessler, F2, SG, etc... where the front of the running length doesn't grab before the midsection of the board, rather the whole thing engages at once. Of course your way doesn't also reduce the "effective base length" when running flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 pretty darn sure that PTC does 1 base, 3 side, and then he measures it to make sure it's dead-nuts constant down the whole running length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Come on guys, 55 page views and nobody even has an opinion. Ok, I did this type of tuning probably between 8-12 yrs ago while I was racing. Depending on course conditions it can help to either engage quickly or delay the engagement of the nose. As for the tail, this type of tuning can allow you to slide the top of the turn before engagement to control speed and release out of turns easier. I would even change the side edge bevel to adjust for the increased base bevel. I only did this when racing. Now that I am a civilian rider I tune the same contact to contact points and it works well for me. Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 That just seems to be a touch on the obsessive side. But I don't mean that in a bad way, I'm just sayin'... Oh yea, look where I spend my free time mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtslalom Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Carvedog, A guy I rode with a few times at Whiteface in New York tunes boards. His name is Rich Garfield I think (refered to as Gar) and he seems to know his stuff. He claims to have as much as a 7 degree side bevel on his Rossi board. It is also progressive in the sense that it varies from mid-legth to the tail. I'm not sure what the front is but the back is 7 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 I have varied base bevel solely for the purpose of riding rails. On park boards, I have gone with more base bevel from the front of the front binding to the back of the rear. On park skis, I have gone with more underfoot. It is noticeable in the ride. I definitely like it more than running a high bevel across the whole board. I don't do it anymore because I generally do not have trouble with catching edges on rails. (I am knocking on wood as I write) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Oh yea, look where I spend my free time mario Yeah, I remember the first time I took hold of the FCII that had edges about as sharp as a 2x4. It is sharp now I tell ya. Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recon Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 One degree base 3 degree side spoken here !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not that I know all that much about it !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastskiguy Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 All I can say is that it's crossed my mind to tune skis that way but then we went from 205's to 180's or whatever and it seemed like....well gee, they're only 180's so I kinda forgot about it. Do you notice any decrease in edge grip? Or just an easier-to-handle board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 yup i have had my prior wcr77 tuned that way often 1d base under foot and 2+ gradually towards the tips sides are constant and start at 88d under foot and go past 90d at the with my detune tip and tail had this done at max ski service in Mont Ttremblant same guy tunes JJ Andersons boards says its how he likes em a much more forgiving ride ensues I feel i can engage and disengage the carve mid turn, at will these days all my boards have 1 or 1.5 base and a side edge that = to < 90 total save the jib board thats at 3 or 4 base and >90 total Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted January 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 Thanks for the feedback. It seems easier to disengage for me. And I think I did start doing this when I was racing, but it seemed to make for easier free carving. Part of this is that I like to ride the 197 Burner the most but I take it down narrow trails sometimes and still insist on carving the whole thing. Just seems like I don't get locked up when I get back ( not that it happens). I thought of this from the thread about tightening up the carve. Preciate the feedback as sometimes I think about stuff like this so much that I have myself convinced by my own power of suggestion. As long as the edge holds I don't really care . Clearing for a day maybe we have some carving soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tahoetrencher Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 The old primes I used to buy from the WC guys in the spring often had hash marks to separate tip/tail from underfoot. One or two of these boards still had tuning specs. They were a series of mostly 3 digit numbers (mm?). A couple had degrees marked on edge for the three sections. The tips were not always the same as the tails and interestingly they were tuned asym with the rear (reg) usually more acute. The boards I had like this felt really quik edge to edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortcutToMoncton Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Does everyone on here agree with the base bevel then? I've generally always run at flat base and 89 edge, but that's been more because I never trusted the tech guys closest to wherever I was living. :D Now I'm back out East with the ice and I wonder if I should just keep on truckin' with my setup, or put the base bevel in. Thoughts? (Unfortunately yes, I'll get someone else to do it....) greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastskiguy Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Does everyone on here agree with the base bevel then?I've generally always run at flat base and 89 edge, but that's been more because I never trusted the tech guys closest to wherever I was living. :D Now I'm back out East with the ice and I wonder if I should just keep on truckin' with my setup, or put the base bevel in. Thoughts? (Unfortunately yes, I'll get someone else to do it....) greg I'd like to say "no", or rather something like "base bevel is for pussies" but I'm going with "yes, you've got to have it" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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