THIS is a Coiler Schtubby!

[BadBrad]

So Bruce is mailing me a 171 (21 waist) and 13.2 scr. Has anyone ridden one of these and have opinions? I'm about 170 lbs and ride mostly man made snow and or typically wet natural ice/snow mix.

Talking with Bruce this sounded like a good all mountain carver that could handlenthe conditions here.

Any review or opinions would be appreciated.

Carp, you look a little heavier than 170 lbs. in your avatar.

If you don't like the board, I'll take it, although 20cm width is the sweet spot for me.

[Carp]

I really hope I like it and don't have to put it up for sale. I hope it doesn't take too long to get used to.

Remember fat weighs less than muscle...I'm a healthy 170 lbs in the pic ;)

[Chubz]

Carp

I wish you the best on the board and if it has any effect on you like one of Bruce's Metal RCs had on me last spring, bring a box of tissues becuase the ride will make you cry in utter disbelief. I think you will be pleaseantly suprised. Imagine it like punching your dummy opposite handed. Odd at first but then real good once you get use to it.

I would imagine you wont be able to sleep until it gets there. I hope the board I ordered isnt too far off in completion.

Sorry if I offended anyone's feelings but losing my mind waiting for my build.

Greg

[Carp]

Thanks chubz,

This will be my first Coiler and I'm really excited after everything I've read on them. I also hope it doesn't take long to get used to it.

Thanks for everyones feedback...especially Bruce!

[Enzo]

i'm anxiously waiting for my 173 Stub from ptc...should be here next week. all this talk is getting me fired up!!

for those who have 'em, any preference on front binding placement on the Stub?? on my glass coilers I found that the boards rode well with the front binding mounted fwd on the front inserts.

[Mike T]

IMHO the first times out on *any* metal board are what takes a little getting used to. This is not unique to the Schtubby. My first time on a metal board was about 2 hours at SES 2006 and I wrote it off as "not for me" and didn't try another one for over a year. Then Buell lent me his - same model (Prior 183) - and I was all about the metal from then on.

Click through to my profile to see how much I like metal boards now (OK, metal Coilers...) Hard to say but I bet the Schtub is less of a transition than say the Prior was for me. Now that I am metal indoctrinated they all seem easy!

Carp, you're coming off a Donek FC 163 and a Salomon FRS 165 right? Those two were actually my hardboot quiver back in 2002/2003. The Schtubby nose will probably feel very stiff at first and the rest of the board will feel somewhat soft. Don't let this freak you out. You'll quickly find that you can make more and bigger riding mistakes on your new board than you could especially on the FC163 and not pay by going over the bars. But if you like to keep your weight between the bindings the softer midsection will let you do that and still bend the board nicely.

My FC163 had the same topsheet decal (and topsheet color) as the one in your ad. If those older FC 163s had a weakness it's that you had to ride the nose pretty hard to bend 'em but the noses were soft enough to fold pretty easy. I noticed the newer FC 163 specs on Donek's site has a lower stiffness rating, I betcha making them more pliable in the mid-section makes them ride nicer.

[Shred Gruumer]

Wierd,, I even told this to Bruce..

I ride all my coilers and the x2 with the front foot about as far up as possible.. when I do that.. my riding style allows me to ride the board centered over the board and just go side to side edge to edge.... which kinda tells me ...I DON"T LIKE TAPER>>

my 5 nickles...

Right said Shred

[Carp]

Thanks so much for researching me. I appreciate the feedback immensely. I was getting a little freaked out while reading thru. Once to the end, well not so much. It sounds like more forgiving than the Donek. It also sounds like i should ride more forward even with feeling that I'll load the nose.

Any opinions on can't/lift? I just ordered 6* front and back disks.

Thanks again to all the metal heads out there.

[bobdea]

Thanks so much for researching me. I appreciate the feedback immensely. I was getting a little freaked out while reading thru. Once to the end, well not so much. It sounds like more forgiving than the Donek. It also sounds like i should ride more forward even with feeling that I'll load the nose.

Any opinions on can't/lift? I just ordered 6* front and back disks.

Thanks again to all the metal heads out there.

6 in front and back, that's a bunch.

for me, the wider a board the less cant I need.

[Mike T]

With the exception of powder boards, I've never canted or lifted specifically for a board. Just pick what is comfy and then place your bindings accordingly.

One thing I will tell you, Bruce pays a ton of attention to placing the inserts on the sweet spot of the boards. I suspect that the more popular the model, the more testing he's done on that model and the more dialed in he is. Given the immesne popularity of the Schtubby 171x13.2 I would just set up centered on the inserts and go from there.

FWIW I've played around quite a bit with my own Coilers, and on the NSR and AM I set up dead centered on the inserts.

[Carp]

6 in front and back, that's a bunch.

for me, the wider a board the less cant I need.

Could you elaborate why you feel that way? I was originally going to go flat but then someone said to have toe lift in the front and heal in the rear to get a more aggressive position.

Thanks,

Also on my older bindings I had 3* on both front and rear. Thought more might be nice?

[Mike T]

Could you elaborate why you feel that way? I was originally going to go flat but then someone said to have toe lift in the front and heal in the rear to get a more aggressive position.

Thanks,

Also on my older bindings I had 3* on both front and rear. Thought more might be nice?

I would recommend only changing one variable at a time. The board is a big variable. I recommend against changing your caning and lifting at the same time.

[bobdea]

With the exception of powder boards, I've never canted or lifted specifically for a board. Just pick what is comfy and then place your bindings accordingly.

One thing I will tell you, Bruce pays a ton of attention to placing the inserts on the sweet spot of the boards. I suspect that the more popular the model, the more testing he's done on that model and the more dialed in he is. Given the immesne popularity of the Schtubby 171x13.2 I would just set up centered on the inserts and go from there.

FWIW I've played around quite a bit with my own Coilers, and on the NSR and AM I set up dead centered on the inserts.

yup, I tend to end up slightly forward, close enough to say Bruce hits it right for me.

[bobdea]

I would recommend only changing one variable at a time. The board is a big variable. I recommend against changing your caning and lifting at the same time.

damn mike, right on. take the words out of my mouth sometimes. or off my fingers I guess it would go on a message board.

I'd suggest sticking with whatever you have now for the first few outings.

with the width and less cant, for me canting is a issue of getting aligned in a comfortable and powerful way. less angle, the less I need help getting my knees where they need to be for comfort.

all that said, I still run a six in the back and flat front on a 20.5 cm board. any wider than that and I go to 3 in the back.

in softboots I can ride flat happily like most people and sort of what guides me with my theory on canting and lift.

[Shred Gruumer]

I have standerized my cants just to make switching boards a bit easier..

But for hitting steep runs I use the 6 degree in the heel and zero in the front.. my findings is since the slope is steep the heel lift..which I wish was 9 degrees.. get me over the board on steep runs.. if I have lift on the front foot for these runs.. it tend to push you back on the board.. when you should be over the the center of the board or even over to the nose.. have someone watch you on a steep run. I always find it funny that you think your riding over the front. but since its a steep grade you actually are not.. you can always go more..and when someone shoots some video..you see that your not.. having no lift in the front and heel lift help you get parallel with the fall line..and not riding the tail.. I only put a 3 degree front to help relax that burning front thigh on easy runs to flat trail...ohhhhh that thigh burn with no lift in the front foot on those runs.. is a killer..

Its a preferance thing.. so I went with something that allows me to ride everything.. if I know Im ridding step runs or icy runs that need lots of front loading I ride flat in front but big heel lift..

Big heel lift helps to not to pre load your get down and get low..

Do this ....stand on a floor and squat and watch what happens to your back heel... it comes off the floor .. so thats what happens with no lift on the back .. you actually pull up the back of the board when you go into a low tuck or carve.. maybe its my riding style or a Cleveland thing.. but thats how I see it.. So i use a heel lift so I don't get that pre bend or loading.. but having no front cant allows me to get over the board on steep runs.. front cant tend to push me back no matter how much I fight it..

Get an extra cant.. they aint that much and then you can set it up for what works...

I tinker..Im the king of tinkering after every run.... Im bad ...very bad..

I have to stop or I will lose all my friends!!!

right said shred..

[Jack M]

Any opinions on can't/lift? I just ordered 6* front and back disks

http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/canting.cfm

[Cuban Carving Gooding]

I tinker..Im the king of tinkering after every run.... Im bad ...very bad..

I have to stop or I will lose all my friends!!!

right said shred..

I can testify to the fact he tinkers a bit.