leeho730 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Yeah, I have FR2 pro limited. Best softboot carving binding, period. I also modded them with burton capstrap and they're really comfy. I use 49/45 with 2/2 cant/lift at rear binding on Prior ATV, 47.5cm stance width. Almost feels like I'm carving on hardboot setup, but is only good for on piste. And I just received an email from Scott. He apologized for late reply and said he would ship them as soon as possible. Good! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crucible Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 I have never had a problem with my Catek OS1's or OS2's screws loosening with constant use- and I transfer them from board to board a lot. I still use the OS-1 on my titanal board, mainly because I find that the larger footprint of the mounting plate helps distribute the force better on the titanal lets me not have to use a plexiglass mounting shim. Of course, it helps that I follow the Catek mounting and tightening instructions to the letter, use loctite in judicious places on the binding, and weigh only 150 pounds... The two biggest features that I have come to appreciate about Cateks are the infinite adjustability of the binding, and the fact that it's modular enough to convert to a soft-boot platform if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 I don't see any issue at all with Cateks as long as you follow the directions on tightening. The only issue I've had with fasteners loosening was with the original WC's after I got some sand in the serrations used for boot length adjustment. But as others have said, why get a Ferrarri when a PT Cruiser will do the job? If there are features that you do not use then they are not a benefit, and therefore the product does not have the same value to you as the simpler product. Good point. It's nice to have choices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeho730 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 I found this advice from Carver's Almanac helpful: "The order in which screws are tightened is important: First, set the position of the quick cant screws to the desired settings to achieve the cant/lift that you want. Then, tighten the kingpin. Then, tighten each cant screw an additional 1/2 turn to add tension to the kingpin so that it doesn't rattle loose. To remove, first loosen the cant screws, then the kingpin." http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_model.html Now I check kingpins once a day, and in most cases I don't have to tighten at all. "- Don't tighten the kingpin first--you run the risk of putting a nice cutout on your topsheet. The cutout will be precisely the diameter of the kingpin.." I also agree with that :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyzcanuck Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 The following is in reference to World Cup and Olympic Series I. I believe this is only possible if you don't have the two king pin washers installed. The stack height of the spherical nut, two washers and boot plate will not allow the cap screw to hit the topsheet. However... if both washers are not installed then it's possible for the cap screw to extend below the spherical washer and mark the topsheet. The washers can be placed both below the boot plate (high cant/lift angles), one on either side of the boot plate (moderate cant/lift angles) or both above the boot plate (minimal cant/lift angles). Tighten the kingpin assembly first with NO tension on the 4 canting screws. Then adjust the canting screws as required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 This comes up every year. And why quote the carver's almanac (which is incorrect) when the Catek instructions are available online? But thanks Dave for reiterating yet again the center bolt must be tight before the four cant screws are even touching the base. If the center bolt marks the topsheet, you put the binding together in some manner other than as the instructions state. Arrgh why is this such a difficult concept? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 This comes up every year. And why quote the carver's almanac (which is incorrect) when the Catek instructions are available online? But thanks Dave for reiterating yet again the center bolt must be tight before the four cant screws are even touching the base. If the center bolt marks the topsheet, you put the binding together in some manner other than as the instructions state. Arrgh why is this such a difficult concept? because this is BOL and the internet in general, people have a hard time with search functions of websites and sometimes assume too much. we are all guilty at some point I think. pretty simple though, I never did any damage with the kingpin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK.inVt Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 I don't even thread the kingpin until the cant/lift screws are set. Works for me! I never have a problem with loose screws either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeho730 Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 This comes up every year. And why quote the carver's almanac (which is incorrect) when the Catek instructions are available online? But thanks Dave for reiterating yet again the center bolt must be tight before the four cant screws are even touching the base. If the center bolt marks the topsheet, you put the binding together in some manner other than as the instructions state. Arrgh why is this such a difficult concept? Tried both method. Putting kingpin first will sometimes make kingpin spin, not to mention official instruction did not prevent kingpin from loosening, which was this: "Place the Binding Plate into the Tilt Cups. Use the 6mm Hex Key to tighten the King Pin to the Disc. Use the 4mm Hex Key to adjust the Binding Plate to the desired tilt by turning the Tilt Screws so that they each just barely contact the Tilt Cups. Then turn each Tilt Screw an equal number of turns clockwise so that the Binding Plate and Power Plate/Disc are securely fastened together." Basically, Catek's instruction suggests that we tighten kingpin first, then adjust tilt/cant using tilt screws. Didn't work for me...:( Then following carver's almanac's instruction (and tilt calculator), kingpin became noticably more stable and resistant to being loosened :) For me, I start to tighten Kingpin only after tilt screws are set so that they have desired lift/cant and that the baseplate 'float' over the power plate, then rotate them 1/2 turns (to prevent 'mark' on the topsheet), then tighten kingpin, then rotate them 1/2 further. Believe me, we live in the world where many people do things other than manufacturer's instruction to improve things. Overclocking, modding etc. For example, one of the adhesives I'm using states on the manufacturer's instruction that it should be dried by air blowing for 15 seconds... but air drying it for 40 seconds achieves much better adhesion. Another adhesive needs to be applied 2 times, but applying it 4 times noticably improves adhesion. Both manufacturers are some of the biggest and most respected companies in the world! In the end, whatever works better! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnar Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Have anyone been in contact with Catek lately? I cant log in to the forum. And have not got any answer on my emails. The first i sent 5 days ago.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 I'm not 100% certain, but I bet that Jeff Caron is at SES this week. So, yes, most likely on vacation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbat Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 I ordered parts from Catek and got an email response on a question just a couple days ago. Just got a e-mail that the order was completed today. Don't want to jinx myself, but I've never had a problem with my OS1s loosening up. When initialy setting them up I tighten the king-pins, set the adj.screws so they just barely touch the plate, and then give them a full rotation each to tighten. When swaping from board to board, I back the two screws toward the toe off two rotations, un-do the king pin, and then reverse the process to put them back on. Very simple really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~tb Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 As others have stated, this comes up EVERY year. I finally sat down and did a part count that I will share below. but as others have said, the adjustabliity of the Catek is worth the perception of the extra parts. I love mine, and when used/set-up correctly, I have had not problem with them loosening. The following are part counts for a single (not pair) binding of each design. Anyone who wants to see my part tally that is a g-mail user, please PM me and I will send you a link to the google doc. For a point of clarity, if a binding uses the same screw 4 times, that counts as 4 parts per binding. Bomber TD1 standard: 34 parts per binding Catek WC standard: 26 parts per binding Bomber TD2 standard: 31 parts per binding Catek OS1 standard: 26 parts per binding Bomber TD2 Step-in: 25 parts per binding Catek OS1 Step-in: 21 parts per binding (I have yet to see a TD3 and the following MAY BE WRONG) Bomber TD3 Standard: 31 parts per binding Catek OS2 Standard: 31 parts per binding Bomber TD2 Step-in: 25 parts per binding Cate OS2 Step-in: 26 parts per binding I would love to hear if people get differing totals. . . but I only get 0-1 extra parts in an OS2 compared to a TD2 or 3. . . so . . . yes, I will gladly deal with 1 extra part, for all the adjustability and tweakability that comes with the Catek OS2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Q: What is the practical experience with using the cateks? A: I have NEVER had a problem with them :). I have no problem with assembly but they just seem a little over complicated. A: They are not. They do look cool. A: They are ;). Any thoughts? A: Love the adjustability . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christian Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 I love my Catek OS2 . They are so simple to adjust and install. And I love to tweak here and there a little bit on my setup. How boring is that, if you install everything and then just go riding?? :rolleyes: I never had any problem with loosening. I do it mostly this way: - when everything is still loose, adjust the tilt screws to your desired cant and lift so the plate sits on a nice firm platform - now I tighten the king pin - finally I rotate all 4 tilt screws again half a turn It works everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Tightening the kingpin in this manner does not allow it to bottom out on the collar (washer) and may allow it to loosen. Tighten the kingpin first. If the nut turns, just lift up on the plate and the nut will stop turning, allowing you to tighten the kingpin easily. Then adjust the four cant/tilt screws. that's how I do it, and have not had one come loose. Sure, you can do it however you want, but knowing how it's supposed to be done lets you understand the risk you are assuming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twelsch42 Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Christian - that is the recommended technique from the catek instructions. Works for me every time too. Keep doing it like that. Chris - You don't want your kingpin to bottom out. You want at least 3 or 4 threads engaged (after 5 or 6 turns you risk bottoming out on your top sheet). As long as you adjust your cant screws and they're all touching the power-plate, there's no chance christians bindings are going to come loose. Maybe you're both talking about a different binding revision...EDIT - yes, Chris you are referencing the procedure for the World Cup and OS1 series of bindings. T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Call me jack Posted February 16, 2009 Report Share Posted February 16, 2009 i have them, and i love them. It's good to know that i'll probaby have them the rest of my snowboarding career (being that they're all aluminum, and i only weigh 150lbs, on a good day.) however, if i got a new board, and new bindings for it idk that i would swing the cash on them again. (mine were used when i bought them) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted February 17, 2009 Report Share Posted February 17, 2009 twelsh42 - this is why there are plastic spacers for the kingpin on the OS2s, and two length kingpins. This allows the kingpin to be bottomed out and not touch the topsheet. And the little O ring stops the nut from turning for those that can't lift the plate as they tighten. Both improvements over the OS1 version. I ALWAYS bottom out the kingpin, whatever version I'm using and I never damage the topsheet. You know why? I follow the instructions! I can see this going on forever, let's talk about trenchdiggers for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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