knoch Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I pulled my bindings off the board to find this: I was just wondering if anyone else has run into this problem and maybe what you've done about it. I know the cause was my Burton bindings, the way the toe and heal connect, the screw goes all the way through and sits just above the surface of the board. Is there a way to prevent this other than replacing the screws with shorter ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boarder_Ted Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Yeah, those screws are too long. Did you buy the bindings new? I know some folks replace hardware with little regard to proper size. If you got them used, it's possible that's what happened. Either way, find screws of the proper length and you won't have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoch Posted March 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I did pick them up used, but I've used them on several different boards and never had this problem. All 8 screws are the same length, I figured that if something had been replaced, only those would be different, any chance someone can check their Burton bindings with this toe and heel set up to see if the screws stick out at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoch Posted March 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Oh and do you know if those new bindings available here are comparable enough that I might be able to get the proper length from Bomber or at least what the length should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boarder_Ted Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 OK I just checked my Burton bindings and the screws do project slightly below the base. But certainly not enough to cause a crater like the one on your board. Were your mounting screws loose causing the binding to rock to the side more than usual? (OK so I'm grasping at straws here) As for the proper size screw, you can always take a grinder to the ones already on the binding. Leave them right in and carefully take 'em down a bit. Also, check to make sure the rubber bumper under the binding is still in its proper place and not worn down so the binding is sitting too low on the board. Other than that, I don't know what to tell you. Good luck with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoch Posted March 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Thanks for the input. So one more thing, what should I fill that hole with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boarder_Ted Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Personally, I like a thickened marine grade epoxy. West System, MAS, System Three, something like that.T hey are, however, quite pricey. The quick epoxies might work but they tend to be rather brittle. Maybe someone else has some ideas for a less expensive fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmartshopper Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I ended up doing that slightly with some snopro bindings - not as bad as that deep one though... If you don't know the thread size, just take one of the bolts down to the hardware store to match it. If they don't have nice stainless - or don't have the right length or head type, you could find them online at a place like http://www.boltdepot.com/ (or lots of other places). The grinder would be fine, just be careful with those bolts afterwards - they will be easier to cross-thread or mess up your inserts if you don't do it cleanly. I think something like Hysol 608 would work fine. It's usually for delam or base repairs, but is pretty tough and not super brittle - should fill that hole up good (mainly to prevent further damage from water etc.) That's $20 a tube from Tognar.... probably can get locally. ________ Vaporgenie Lowest Price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowghost Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I sympathize with your problem, but you always have to check the length of every screw before you mount the binding to the board. Especially, if you don't buy them new. Several companies, such as Snowpro, include different length screws in their original packaging, because the correct length changes based upon the cant and lift option you choose. Nothing should ever protrude, even if there is a rubber gasket. You can normally get screws that work at ACE, but sometimes you have to grind them down yourself. It has been that way for over 15 years. Many riders do not spend the hour or two it takes to assemble the binding initially, then take it apart a couple of times, until they get it with no protrusions. It is a pain, but it has to be done if you do not want to damage the top skin of your board. I have bought at least 6 pair of bindings on Bomber in the last few months, and more than half of them had protruding screws when they were delivered. Good luck - "ghost" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave ESPI Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I initialy cringed and thought "Ohhhhhffaaaa ... SnoPros..." the longer scews work for lift and cant plates, and if you don't pay attention whensetting up the bindings, you can use the long ones and damage the board. Since those are burtons, all I can come up with is that you really over rode the board or had some rough chop that you jammed hard on and ti caused a huge ammount of flex and contact with the screws. 2 part epoxy ( check with RC car/ plane hobby shops) there is a flexible one for plastic body repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Personally, I like a thickened marine grade epoxy. West System, MAS, System Three, something like that.T hey are, however, quite pricey. The quick epoxies might work but they tend to be rather brittle. Maybe someone else has some ideas for a less expensive fix. this guy knows his ****, I too prefer marine epoxy just works better for me the hardware is too long, I used to ride the **** out of burton and nothing like that ever happened and I remeber the screw being almost flush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBrad Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I ride Burton race plates. I have 2 sets and have the red plastic canting/lifting shims that go between the toe/heel block and the base. I have several sets of screws of various lengths to use depending on whether I have the shims in place or not. Select the screw length so that the tip of the screw is almost flush with the base of the bottom when viewed from underneath. It looks like yours has the longer screws designed for use with the shims, but without the shims in place they are too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I did that to my old Axis with the kingpin on cateks - marine epoxy - like the other guys said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowghost Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Some of the windsurfing shops carry a "dig repair" product in a clear plastic sleeve that looks exactly like the plumber's epoxy from a hardware store, and it probably is. Just cut a piece off, roll it between your hands to get it warm, then fill the hole. Not "high tech" but it works. We used to use it for everything. You can probably get it online from "Murray's Marine" or "the-house". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carvedog Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Looks like you don't have the red or yellow or whatever color rubber bumper that sits under the binding and on the top sheet. ???? Just guessing cause I can't really see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrol Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Though not as bad. I recently took some ole Burton Performance binding I had on an old board off to install them on a Rossi I bought of a member here only to find that the little rivets they use in place of the screws on the race plates had done quite a job on the front foot heelside of my top sheet. Seems the rubber bumpers just didn't do a good enough job. I made some new, slightly thicker bumpers out of Buna-N that better extend under the heel and toe so as to avoid the same deal on the new board in the future. I appreciate all the good repair info here as I love that lil ole board and now know how to take care of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBrad Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Looks like you don't have the red or yellow or whatever color rubber bumper that sits under the binding and on the top sheet. ????Just guessing cause I can't really see. I see a yellow something there, but it is hard to see. The bumper/cushion under the binding base varies by model year. On my older race plates it is just a black neoprene pad stuck to the base of the binding. The newer model race plates (and Ibex) have elastomer cushions of various colors and durometers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoch Posted March 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 Thanks for all of the advice and knowledge. I assumed the fix would have to be shorter screws, but I figured I would see if any of you left yours alone and put down some sort of rubber on the board or anything. That one spot was the worst of the bunch, none of the others actually punctured the board but I'm afraid they might. I knew these things had a lot of flex, but I thought they would have been designed so that did not happen. The white under the binding that you can see in the picture is some sort of rubber, and so is the yellow, but that is way too high in the binding to be meant for contact with the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 You should be able to find the screws in any hardware store. They're M6 x 1.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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