peter_x

Din -5?

I hear that it is good to go to a sauna and then run naked into the cold. Opens up the pores.

I have a pair of SB 413's that I got on BOL last season. I wonder if they are the kind with the large cuff area... I'll try to post pics later. (I haven't had a single day on snow this season :()

Nothing? I bought some Proflex Freecarve bindings on the Irish eBay and they were shipped from Germany. There weren't any fees. This was the guy: http://cgi.ebay.com/Proflex-freecarve-bindings-brandnew_W0QQitemZ220077723780QQihZ012QQcategoryZ101731QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Base suck? (Are the bumps going in or out)?

Finally, someone mentions the ingredient that is actually on the CamelBak instructions.

Stiff GS. Of course, the board might have lost a lot of its camber...

Yellow for both sides. From what was said in a previous thread, stiffer springs might be bad for a softer boot, as the boot itself will deform as you pressure it. If you want one side stiffer, you still have a limited ability to do that by loading the springs. Also, you're a lighter rider

I think it's because of the length... shorter boards are usually for smaller riders.

My bootfitter uses a wooden rod - a lot easier to stick down there than a hand.

Sorry, I meant expand the smaller boots (since you said you had black toenail). I would try that.

Why not just try to expand the toe area of the liner?

The rule of thumb is to get 4 threads of engagement. I only get 2.5 on my Liqiud Arc, but I'm an intermediate rider at best.

Looking at that pic made me realize I am missing those red bumpers from my Proflex Freecarves (apparently the same thing as those?) Do you have more bumpers? Thanks. and is that black ring also a bumper?

So he has the convenience of step-in in the back on both boards.

I'm not sure how those Blax boots work. Raichle shells come in whole sizes, and each size fits the liner and its half size, ie a 26 shell takes a 26 or 26.5 liner. If you get moldable liner, you have to remold them if you switch boots, because the outside of the liner also gets molded. You can do it up to 6 times with Thermoflex liners. I had MP 30 shells and needed 30.5 liners but couldn't find any, the only thing the ski store had that would fit me was the conform'able foam injected liners. btw, when I measured my mondo point and got boots of eBay, they were also too small (I measured 29) I think you should add 1 to what you measure or something.

I agree. I don't know the sizing system for those Blax boots, but if you can't find a liner big enough, you probably can get a moldable liner to fit if you feel the shell is big enough.

Thanks, I thought so. edit: In fact, I think I will cut two slots so I can thread it through like the other holes, instead of using the screws.

I got my booster straps and I have a question. I have the Raichle 413 boots and I had assumed that the strap would be threaded through the holes in the back. I removed the "Raichle" tab and the strap fits perfectly, but it is on the same level as the 4th strap, so the buckle interferes with it. I see from Fin's pic that he has placed it higher, so why does Raichle have those holes there? I think the 4th strap can actually be tightened over the buckle, I haven't really tried yet. edit: I tried it, it works but probably not a good idea.

How could I forget... should have posted this on the carve board. :D

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I don't understand this concept of "false torque" In my mind, the only thing that applying grease to the heads does is transfer the friction from there to the threads. Possibly, for other reasons, it matters where this friction is. But friction is friction. So why do you torque a bolt less/more when you have applied grease?

Yes, height also matters... but not how/where the baseplate bolts onto the cant disk or stuff like that.