alexeyga

Where exactly in Quebec are you located? I'm from Montreal... Interested in the board as well.

Since Bob was kind enough to rise the fishing issue, I'd suggest spearfishing...:-) It's somewhat "relaxing", very demanding physically and mentaly besides letting you shot something...

for kiting, just make sure not to fall into kite's quiver collecting and do not buy brand new... there is plenty of inexpensive, used stuff around.. sure it's not as cool and advaced as new models, but who cares, just get out and have fun!

As i've posted in another thread, I'd really recommend using anti-seize compound instead... It's a lubricant, but given that you'll be able to apply more torque without stipping anything, I'm sure it will hold just as well with added anti-corosion protection and without loctite's disadvantages like stripped threads and busted screw's heads... The first thing I did when I got my set of Intecs along with Cateks, I've brushed-off all this blue crap from all the screws...

Damn you, that's about how much we've lost during last week's "good" weather...

I have never heard about loctite's anti-corosion properties... did I miss something?

Finally got a set of Intec heels and gave a try to OS1’s… Loved it… Loved how Cateks lived-up the Coiler, loved the Intec system despite the fact that I was always rather skeptical about it... Stepping up from Head Stealth standard bails, no I haven’t found it too stiff, just right! Was smiling all way long… And I’m glad I didn’t get OS2’s – didn’t like the concept... First of all they are half way ready to be marketed… second, they look like reinvented TD1’s, just more complex… Word of advise to all these capable of holding a screwdriver in their hands, make your-self a favor and use anti-seize compound instead of Locktight on all the threads! Yes it’s a lubricant, but given that you’ll be able to apply more torque, it will hold just as well! However, we will see less topics screaming about stripped threads, busted screw heads, corroded inserts, etc… I've discoverd this stuff a while back ago, messy like hell, but damn it keeps threads healthy....

It's not about Intec being piece of crap, it's about paying some basic attention to your equipment...

I have the same one, nice all-mtn(ish) for the price, easy to throw around on a crowded day, but doesn't stand any comparison with longer boards (like RTs or my Coiler).

Un chose.. si tu vais acheter des Deeluxe, assure toi de les avoir avec liner Thermo... Le standard, meme si il est tres comfortable, laisse passer l'eau, donc il est tres froid it il n'est pas tres durable no plus...

Sorry guys, but the buyer alredy sent me a money order, so unless proven otherwize the board is sold...

Apparently not... Hey Derf, I just got a job at Usinage Laurentides, looks like I have the access to some heavy duty equipment once again!!!

I had a "chance" to try one of these typical family-mountains last sunday morning... In all honesty I was hoping that if I show up at the openning, I'll get tired before it gets really crowded... well, guess what?! Moms aren't that lazy in North America... Weither it is a good thing or not about moms I don't give a damn... But kids in NA are absolutely inadequate, that's for sure! And people-gating was just a part of a day...

Pending a deal with 2 backup offers... :D Picked it up in a simmilar thread...

Deals like this make me cry... But i'm equipped... Nice board, good luck!

Imho, fitting a spring would the the most elegant, and most time consuming... Stoppers are much easier to implement... (think sheet metal and a few bends) I've read your message about catek mode... sounds like an overkill to me, if there is and issue of cant screws diggin in, why not modify the cant screws? I'll wait for my pair of OS1 to show up in order to bring any constructive ideas though...

Board freshly waxed (I'm a wax-whore.. really.. waxing every single board after every ride, unless it was used for a few runs only...), really hoping to sell it all together with bindings: Base: Only base scratches (edges aren't rusted, it's just poor light conditions...): Only top sheet blemish worth of mentionning - right at the nose: Bindings mounted with the canting plate: :D have fun downolading it...

Email everybody... Scott, sorry that's the only FP i've seen so far and i'd keep it for my-self if i didn't have the RaceCarve.... My internet connection is busted today, i'll post more pics once it's running... Damn i forgot how slow 56k were....

Burton Race Plates in great condition. The toe bails are brand new! What you'll get: 1 pair of blue race plates 1 leash 2 burton 3d discs (No, I don't have 4x4 discs) 1 burton cant plate (not pictured) Hardware 85$ US + SH for the plates alone 150$US + SH with the board I won't sell the plated alone before the board is sold without them!

Selling: Burton 167 Factory Prime (95/96) with 180 waist in great condition without any majour flows worth of describing. Base and edges in top shape, close-ups are posted... scroll-down... The board was bought in december for my g/f, but it seems it's quite a bit too much of a race board for her to handle... I just sold one board she couldn't ride, here come another one... So it was ridden (more like tried to be riden) 3 times by her and I took it for 1 run just to see what it's made of. Great board, responsive and easy to ride. Will come waxed and ready to go. Scroll down for more pics. I really want to sell it with the bindings... less hassle for me with packaging and paperwork.. 80$ US + SH. 150$US + SH. with plates (please don't e-mail me any math, it's a package deal)

Already did... Hardbooters.com had some OS1 leftovers...

That's the "shear" me and Golfer were talking about and in your case, hands down, it looks like material's defect... I've read some of your older posts about bindings.. sounds disturbing... Nothing can be trusted...

I want to point tha that's what i've started this thread for, wanted to get some real-live data... However, plastic and metal do not react to stresses in the same way and again, in short term it will take a hell of force to shear these pins, so yes plastic will go banana before that... But in long term it is probably wize to change these heels every two or three seasons. These were probably engineered for a few millions cycles (assuming theoretical 400lbs rider) of loading before metal reaches it's endurance limit... anyways, all this b/s aside, i've ordered a set of these, so either i'll break them durring the first use due to manufacturing defects or I'll keep using them for the next 3 seasons... :D

Thanks but i've already paid for a set of OS1-s...

For god's sake, in no way F2 Ti can be classified as mid-priced bindings... Michael is looking for something inexpensinve in the 100$ range... And as far as Burtons go, I wonder why are you so negative about them if you've only been told they are crap? Burton Race plates are more than decent and reliable... I still think they are one of the best choices for the price...