Jack M

2012-2014 I was riding a 21cm wide Coiler Slalom 163 with hardboots. It actually worked quite well. This year I got a Donek Axxess 163, 21.5cm wide, and that worked even better for powder and all-mtn freeriding, although not as well for hard carving. I enjoyed both very much in powder/trees/spring, they floated and made hardbooting feel like "snowboarding" again. However due to user error (stuffed nose in soft snow, followed by pond skimming wipeout), I've broken the Axxess, so I'm reevaluating my quiver. I think I'd like to get a BX with carvey softboots for powder/trees/spring, or generally any days that aren't great for carving. My last pair of softies were new in '94, retired in 2002 I think. Been a while! In 2010 I was in Jackson Hole with my Coiler Stubby 170. It was 21cm wide so it worked pretty well but the length combined with hardboots was a bit much. So I went to go rent a softy setup. The guy in the shop raved about the new tech and put me on a Malolo, I think it was 160 at most, if not shorter. Kind of a fish shape with a lot of setback and very little tail. Felt all weird, and like I was constantly in danger of falling back off the tail. Took it back and exchanged it for a good ol' Supermodel 168 and all was right with my world.

ESL?

World record set by Edmond Plawczyk. It's on the face book. Wow.

http://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/gear-geek/introducing-or-lederhosen?utm_medium=Social-post&utm_campaign=FB+Performance+Lederhosen LOL

Speaking of this... https://youtu.be/RV99aAsv23w

DIY man. Heat oven to 225 for like 15 minutes. While that's happening, make a toe cap - cut the toes off of 3 or 4 old socks, back to the ball of the foot. Turn off oven Put one liner in the oven for 20 minutes. Put toe cap on foot, put a thin ski sock over that and pull it tight. Take liner out of oven, put footbed in liner, put foot in liner, put it all into the shell and buckle all buckles on first or second notch. Let cool for 20-25 minutes. STAND UP while cooling, and weight that one foot, keeping even toe-heel pressure. Rock back and forth occasionally. Helps to put a phone book or something under your toe. If you sit down or unweight that foot, the liner will end up too narrow. Repeat for other liner.

I just put my name in for a Nirvana Energy 174. 20cm waist, 12/14m sidecut. Waiting for Bruce's recommendation on torsion plus.

Finally. And I voted no.

I see a lot of potential in that video. You have some work to do, but you will get there.

Chiropractor

Because everyone must yield to people ahead of them. Any skier/rider who is underway and downhill of another skier/rider has the right of way, no matter what shape/size turns they are making. More and more skiers are carving round turns these days, so it behooves everyone to know this. I actually witnessed a near collision between a skier and a carving skier just last weekend. (yes, as I mentioned in another post, in the extreme case where the downhill person is traveling uphill, then it can be argued that both are ahead of each other, and then rule 1 takes precedence.)

Is this the article you mentioned? http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Techarticles/toeside_problem.html Generally you want to start each carve with more weight on the front foot and finish each carve with more weight on the back foot. As the carve comes around, you're feeding the board into the turn with your knees. Driving your knees towards the edge sounds like it may lead to the problems described in the above article.

Actually in that situation it's on both of you to avoid a collision. The code says "people ahead of you have the right of way", not "people downhill of you". Since you're both ahead of each other, you're both bound by rule 1, stay in control, you must be able to stop or avoid other people or objects.

Wrong.

23 years of hardbooting, never been hit. I wait for breaks in the traffic before starting downhill. I point with my hand before making an irregular turn, or I don't make irregular turns if I know people are right behind me. Probably also has something to do with the generally somewhat higher caliber of skier/rider that is willing to spend the extra time in the car to drive past other resorts in order to get to the one I ride. Lots of skiers here are carving round turns now, it's great. I do wonder though, it seems like in a carver vs. skier-from-above collision, the carver usually wins? We are already low and coiled for a good hockey check. I admit I am morbidly curious to have this happen to me to see how it plays out. I did once have an old-timer yell at me from behind to "get out of the way", heh.

Howdy Neighbor. A lot has changed, for the better. Come to the ECES next year and try out the latest and greatest. Come up to Sugarloaf and take a lesson from Erik Beckman. I wrote a piece on the subject of the "new" tech - metal, variable sidecut radius, and tip/tail rocker here: http://www.bomberonline.com/resources/Bomberfiles/the_new_hotness.html

I'm in. Got Fin's original (muahahaha) and a great 2007 158 f2. Been riding both all year. There would be no way to make the test blind as the shape of the original 158 is obvious, partly because it's actually more like 155cm long. One would need to deliberately not look at the boards, and I know I wouldn't be able to do that. Indeed standard TD screws aren't long enough for the original. I got screws 2mm longer and they work perfectly. They go in about 5 or 6 turns, while the standard screws went in only 2 turns.

+1!

Looks like the new one must be used with Burton 5-hole bindings! ;-)

January 10, 1988. Certified at Stowe on an Elite 150 by an instructor of Lowell Hart's crew. Next board was a Safari Comp II. Then hardboots in 92. Dang we're old.

Cool. Actually this board would be ok for carving in softboots because it's relatively wide. May as well give it a try since you have it. I assume it's the correct version for you - regular or goofy? If this board gives you a taste and you like it, there are better modern choices for when you want to get further into it, even if on softies.

The Stat and the PJ were two different models. Your PJ7 was a production model, and not rare. A Stat 7 would be rare, because as you quoted above, it was never a production model. But your board is not a Stat 7.

If it was used I'd say its only value would be as wall decoration, but since it's unused I'd say ask $100, take $50 plus shipping. Just know that asymetrical snowboards are obsolete and Burton hasn't made one in about 18 years. If you sell this to someone who specifically wants an asym, cool. If you sell it to someone who doesn't know what an asym is, you'd be taking advantage of their ignorance. It's not a good board to learn on. Also, this board has nothing to do with the Stat 7, which was symetrical, and not even a production model.

Wow, very cool Scott!!

My pleasure my friend. Initially I set out to find you a quality used board, but the project organically morphed into this crowdfunding idea after a suggestion by Todd. Thanks for all you have done for the alpine community over the past ~25 (!!) years. Enjoy!