AcousticBoarder

Was/ is this being done this year? I was unable to make it, but would love to virtually attend the clinics

Likewise I am curious. I just got a pair of 25 UPZs. I am on TD1s at the moment and I am trying to figure that out, but plan on going to TD3s next season

Here is a picture of the plate and the mounting block holes. Is it ok to use these? I have adjusted the bails to as small as they can go. So I can turn the blocks around, both front and back? Or just one? I have only tried it on the toe blocks, and I have noticed my boot is not center either.

The binding has 3(?) sets of mounting holes for the toe and heel blocks, and then a 4th that is closer and labeled "Step-in only". I can post a picture later tonight, I don't see a good picture in a google search. I just have regular bails, not step in. Only the rear bail has a spring, I can't change the rear heel block around can I? I am using the TD1s on an Oxygen Proton SL. I plan on upgrading to TD3s next season, unless someone is selling a pair for a really good deal. On the TD1s, should the bumpers be mounted on the holes closer to center or farther out? I think closer with a smaller boot right?

I just bought a pair of UPZ boots, m25, and have a set of TD1s as my bindings. I can latch the bail on the bindings, but it is not very tight. I am not using the step-in holes for the toe and heel blocks, is it ok to move them in to there? I know on the td3s you can turn the toe block around and mount the bail backwards to help with this, but it seems on the TD1s, that the base plate gets in the way on the closest non-stepin hole, and I do not know if it is safe to do so. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Hm, your post has made me wonder about how I was doing last time and if I wasn't making as much progress as I thought. Last time I went it was really soft, and I felt like had improved a lot by doing a few things. We have so little snow at the moment that the nearest hill is currently closed until more snow falls, so I have not been able to go since.

Fantastic stuff! I too am a fan of your really really really carve video Happy to see you on here, Welcome!

Bump

There is one for sale right now on the forum. here: http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/41111-td2-intec-heel-receivers/

why do these go for so much?

+1 for talking to Bruce or Sean (or both), and you will probably really like a VSR for navigating around the crowds. I have an Incline, but I don't think I am experienced enough to say how it rides and flex. I just know I like it

Flow bindings are great, I use them as my soft setup. Mine are compatible with the channel inserts If you want to look at a new board, from what it sounds like, I would start with an all mountain board if you are wanting to dabble in carving but still be in soft, as well as have the option of going hard. Look for something like the Donek Incline. Maybe look at power plates here on bomber if you get the carving itch but want to stay soft and/or have low angles

Yeah, small steps, one thing at a time, it is a lot of things to remember. My next step is keeping my weight even and moving directly across the board I think. Good luck this weekend!

Yes, it depends what technique you are trying to employ. The video is on the EC (ExtremeCarving) form, where as most people here use (what to call it? Standard/ Normal/ Bomber/ Angulation?). When I went a couple weeks ago and made that post, I was having a lot of difficulty because I was trying to employ different techniques that were contradicting each-other. When I went last week, I made much more progress just focusing on one. Sadly, I have been unable to find any good beginner instructional videos besides Corey's Intermediate and Steeps clinics on the "standard" technique. Lessons are great if you have access to them (I do not). Otherwise make sure your gear and bindings are set up correctly, and focus on your sholders, hips, weighting, driving the knees, and moving directly across the board to initiate turns. Thats what I am doing atleast, so correct me if I am wrong :)

Still available

Picture of this hand armor?

What, no matching dog to go with it? No deal!

Here is a good article to read by Beckmann AG. He has been helping me on my stance and performance, and will likely chime in at some point too :) You will have to click on the softboot snowboard link towards the top of the page to navigate the different pages http://beckmannag.com/softboot-snowboard/setup-guidelines Overall, yes, the front foot placement does have a lot to do with how quickly the board reacts/ edge initiation. Last time I was out, I moved my bindings back because the snow was really soft, I went "over the handlebars" a couple times. I would be interested to hear if the "Gilmour Bias" has any effect on having the back foot forwards or backwards and toe edge initiation/ control. anyone tried?

Yes, that would be very helpful. I was looking for a Prior 4WD and I could only ever get every thread with a prior

I was very close to coming up, but I would only be able to stay half day - I would be driving more than riding - and I now have a meeting scheduled late morning. Sorry, maybe next time!

Yes, he is providing very helpful to figure out what I am doing wrong and how to improve. And yeah, I figured out the problem with trying different forms at the same time

Thanks :)

When I got boot-fitted near one of the local mountains, the fitter said he is getting more and more calls each year about alpine snowboarders. At the other local mountain, one of the trail/freestyle crew: "Does that even work?"

Donek Incline is a good all mountain soft boot carving board, Razer is specifically designed as a softboot carver. Flux is a freeride carver developed from a BX board. Going with Donek you can give Sean a call or shoot him a message, and have everything customized to exactly what you want for a very reasonable price. You sound like you have specifics if you tried all the boards in a shop, so that is where I would look. Only downside is that Donek is in the US.

Here are the videos from yesterday. Snow was soft all day, Foggy in the morning, by the third video in the afternoon it was slushy, and torn up. Switched to softboots at the end of that run. I am wondering if EC techniques need to be used on softboots? When I switched to soft because of conditions, it was much more difficult to keep front and back inline.