Hilux

Great vid...that skier is hilarious. Was there any more confrontation or was that the extent of it? I'm sure there are worse "hazards" on the hill than trenches or "ruts"...how about the mounds of snow he's pushing together as he skid-turns down the mountain? :D And b0ardski...some crazy moves there! Looks like you all had fun.

That's awesome! What were you riding there? You sounded like the happiest person on that mountain...good times. For a sec I thought you were chasing down that softbooter At least he called it out despite mixing up his lefts/rights...unlike the majority of people who sneak up and surprise you.

What's the waist width on that carbon?

Very true. I've always owned FWD with winters that were standard/stick (b/c comparatively subies were a little more costly by 3-4g's for something of the same gen) and have never had a problem. Might not be able to recover from a emergency maneuver as well as an AWD subie (or other) and a little slower from a dead stop but just invest in some decent snows and forget about it.

Hey queequeg, any more progress? You been looking at any more cars/suv's?

Alright, this isn't so much a worry as the last crack under the tongue but still very, very frustrating. Anyone else crack the strap on the third buckle ie the one that's on the pivot? How do I source this out? Anyone had experience with getting individual replacement parts from Head? When is this going to stop!...when I buy Deeluxe? Huh...

sent message

Great car...that would be a blast to drive! Was on my short list but hard to find a decent one (with low kms) when looking. It's not a Spec B is it? queequeg, one thing to note if you're looking into the Subie sedans at all is that the back seats don't fold down...only a dinky pass-through. I could be mistaken so someone correct me if I'm wrong. Perhaps this has changed the last few years....?

10-4. Looked into this a couple years ago with the 2.5's. Especially the 2000-2002's but some I looked at already had the HG done. Don't let it scare you, just be mindful of it and ask questions if you go this route (every car has its one or two issues). AWD is bulletproof in these though, very little to worry about. Otherwise, friend is a mechanic and has only had good things to say about the 4.0 in the Jeep...just don't pin it all the time your mileage will okay, not the best but not too shabby considering what your options are. If you're going with new tires too (snows or all-season), don't go wide (or wider than stock). Yes they give float in snow but you don't want to float on snow on a road; you want skinny to "dig" down to the pavement/dirt/gravel

ripped similar to this?...see post #53 http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=23100&page=2

I've resized the pics...hopefully the crack is more apparent. Should I just keep an eye on em'?

Here are the pics of crack. It doesn't seem to affect boots performance...yet, however as mentioned above, as soon as the toe bail is locked in I feel the boot contort ever so slightly. In case anyone is wondering too, I don't have it set too tight either; it's a notch or two away from being a little loose but I get good boot bail contact, any looser and I'd be worried. Other than that I don't notice any difference. I suppose I'll just keep an eye on it.

JP Oh, I just meant I thought I saw it for $250-300 a while back (don't know why I saw that) but then saw it for much cheaper at the bomber store. Either way, I just have to try it. And thanks for the advice and encouragement...I may have to wait though before I start trimming and drilling, see below. Side note: New development in my boots. While switching the tongues over to orange I noticed a small crack (half inch maybe) just in front of the outside bolt (ie not the one holding down the bail clip m'jigs). It's on the softer part where the shell overlays are so don't know how bad this is but do notice a bit more compression when buckling my race plates. The crack is about 1/2 inch from the bolt hole. Anything thoughts? Probably too late for warranty. It makes me a little nervous and sick to my stomach cause I just bought them used from a member here and only used them once for half a day. I'll get pics later...for now I just need to and let this sink in. Huh...

Goodluck...let me know how it goes, I may follow suit in the near future.

Perfect, thanks for the info guys. I think I try cutting the wings in increments and for sure get the BTS (for some reason I thought it was some ridiculous price). Did the BTS you all got come from Bomber store? I have a bunch of bookmarked "how to BTS" and am mechanically inclined although am a little nervous regardless of how competent and careful I think I can be. What was the hardest part of BTS'ing the boots? Thanks again

Alright, this is an old thread but figured I ask advice before I cut my boots and start tinkering with adjustments... 1. is there any difference between the older orange HSP and the newer black ones? Are you guys still cutting the wings on the black ones or is there a difference/improvement in the shells that I should know about? I find my boots pretty stiff and would like to soften them a touch. 2. To increase forward lean with the stock mechanism do I move the whole spring (ie move both nuts equal distance) up or down? I noticed the min/max indicator...max towards the bottom and vice versa but this seems backwards to me. 3. Can someone please confirm if the orange tongues are softer than the black ones. Thanks for helping a newb.

Sooo are the orange ones softer than the black? So in terms of stiffness it would be grey, black, orange?

Oh, thanks Canuck...I guess you saw the original message before I realized this was in classified section. again sorry for semi-hijack

ooops wrong thread, please delete

Fun to watch indeed. Like the, "Mellow!....yeah!" at the beginning with you tearing it up for a couple seconds. That's a great perspective also, too bad it was only a snippet. Can't believe the snow you guys are getting down there.

Very inspirational vid and love the wide open runs :) Was in Austria skiing a while back and wish I had my board with me. Was still learning so didn't want to "waste" precious time on the mountain In hindsight probably would have been great to have that much space for practice though...wah wah.

Thanks jp

Thanks skategoat. I found the thickest flathead screwdriver but the taper still caused it to slip a little. I did find a washer that works okay, still not great though. Are the orange tongues supposed to be stiffer?

Thanks guys...made it work. Still don't have anything great to move the slotted nuts...I'll have to get crafty I guess :)

I've upgraded to a pair of used HSP's and they are considerably different (in a good way) in flex than my ski boots. I got them used in great condition however have found that the previous owner was tinkering with the canting adjustment. Having worked in the ski industry in the past, I've always been advised to leave the canting alone. I just want to put it back to a neutral/stock position. The left boot is adjusted to the "top" or highest mark while the right is adjusted to the bottom. Not sure what this would achieve or how it will affect riding. Sooo, I tackled the left one first and noticed the screw was tight but came undone eventually. The screw also looked stripped on the first couple threads too...I assume the whole length should be threaded yes? Then I noticed that the inside "receiver" part (oval nut with square back) was beginning to warp the plastic...not really bad but just enough to make me feel sick and stop what I was doing. My questions are.... 1. Is this normal to be that tight? 2. Once this is all loosened how do I go about setting it back to stock? (I had the screw, oval washer m'bob and plastic outer circle out to assess but that's as far as I got). Is any part on the inside (where circle and the two parts of the shell/cuff meet) supposed to move so I can position the oval...does that make sense? 3. How do I avoid this and where can I get spare parts in case this goes to hell? An unrelated question too and I've found limited info on this here and elsewhere online. How do I adjust or what do I use to move the slotted nuts at the back? Is there a stock tool? I've fashioned a tool for the meantime from an old small hinge but it's not a great fit and is softer metal. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance and would appreciate any input or advice. And sorry for anything that is unclear, I can take pictures or attempt to explain it better. H