michael.a

I'm riding in Solden, Austria right now and actualy spent 5euro for internet access to write to you (well not really you Beckmann, my girlfriend really, but you take comfort that you are seco..er third in line), well, want to say thank you for the information, my only beef now is... how the hell do you take all of that into consideration? Me, joe schmo, besides such cold hard data like "comfort" and "feel", I have no other parameters to use. I guess point number two, before my internet runs out, is just that, considering what is the best stance with the fewest compromises. How do I know what compromises to consider, besides, again, comfort and feel?

For real???? Well... there go all my supposedly infallible preconceived notions, you've left me now with nothing pokkis, do you realize that? Nothing. No... no... I will still hold on to them. Pokkis, you and those longboard freaks are all wrong, all wrong, stop sort out your bones and joints and then we'll talk. Lamberto, how else would you call a quick sudden stop that sprays snow? I hereby vote to introduce such nouveau nomenclature into our lexicon ("our"...), including with the aptly named term: "bomber-style".

"Oh benttech, you've restored two classic cars, any good advice?" "Yea, one golden rule: triple your budget and your projected time frame at the MINIMUM." "Oh har har har, I thought you'd say something practical, I already have everything planned out to a T, I hope to be done in three months" "We'll see" Months or years later when I see the dudes who started their project cars I ask what happened, most after a few years gave up and sold it, one guy finished his ride but put in FIVE TIMES more than he wanted, from 6 to 30K, the rest never even started and just keep their rides rusting in their garage.

No, all I know is when I see surfers or skateboarders, who ride in what I could say is the most "natural" position a body occupies on a board, I've never seen someone's rear leg tucked and twisted further inward than their front leg. Ouch. Or when people slide on a slippery floor. Or a quick look at the Vitruvian Man; natural body mechanics give us a built splay that should be adapted into binding setup. For the same reason I can also say people who ride parallel angles are weird. And those who ride goofy. And guys who ride on skwals: psychos. Oh yea, that guy with that hat, he's different from me, also weird. You too Beckmann. In addition I cant imagine it being easy to tilt the board on edge and pressure it hard enough to make a hockey stop with such a setup.

I still cant fathom how some people can ride with a higher angle on the rear foot, pigeon-toed or whatever... please dont take any offense, it just seems so alien and unnatural to me.

Thank you both for the help. I played around with canting once and just didnt feel it and use just toe and heel lift or sometimes ride flat, but maybe thats the ticket for these uber narrow boards. Just hope I have time to fiddle with the setup :)

I tried two Virus boards recently with 15? and 17cm waists, I didn't have any time to really to tinker with my binding setup, just set the angles so there would be no boot out with 5 degs on splay and used the same lift/cant like always: 3 degs of toe lift up front and 3 degs of heel lift in the back. After a fun runs I got accustomed to the width of the board but my rear leg just felt weird, like it wanted to pull out of my hip, I had the boot pressing hard on the sides of my shins and my knee felt like it couldnt move up or down. I might have an opportunity to try a few more narrow boards but want to get this dialed in right, are there are secrets with binding setup? Just spectulating, but it felt like I should use 6 deg of heel lift in the rear or more and actually have a ton more splay, cept the only problem is my rear angle was in the high 70s, so I'd have to go up to 80 something plus to to make that work. Help :)

I really have no idea, like I said, finding a box that is compatible with your car and rail system can be very difficult. Most boxes can be shifted forward/backward by about 10cm, and it also depends on how tall your roof rack/rails are. With your Outback it might not limit you to manufacturer by rather by entire box size.

EC'ing must begin with the board travelling perpendicularly to the fall line.

There are numerous box manufacturers in Europe that sell for 1/2 of what Thule or Yakima go for, but of course you take a hit in your "cool-meter" by not having a Thule/Yakima sticker on your box :) One thing I cant stress enough is make sure your rails and box are compatible, there are numerous different systems, rails, studs - all using different sized screws or clamps. I have a Kamei thats 230cm long and its a life saver, my only regret is that I should have bought a bigger one (similar with flat screen TVs). What nils has, the Thule 820 would be perfect, enough space for boards, boots and whatever else is wet, keep all the dry stuff inside. You still have to use board bags to protect your boards since they do move around a bit.

I used some threaded bolts, I think 5mm, then cut off the heads and hammered everything em in. However, after a few years, the bolts slowly push themselves out about 5mm, so every 2-3 days of riding I got to hammer them back in. But if you can push them out/in by hand, then they are too loose IMO.

This is more about binding bias than choosing binding angles...

Seems obvious but... When centering your boots on bindings, how to you actually find the center of the boot? Some boots have an arrow as a reference, but none of my boots do. I always roughly measured from one end of the boot to the other, divided by 2 and voila. However I just heard someone tell me that finding the middle of a boot is a bit more complicated and should take into account how the liners sit in the shell, i.e., find the center by using your liners and mark the spot, put em back in, and then see where you foot is centered in the boot. To me it sounds almost the same, anyone care to comment?

Has anyone seen or heard anything about using two different bindings on one board? Or even something more simple, like different TD2/3 elastomers for their front and rear foot? I am not talking about using regulars in the front and stepins on the back, I think everybody including me does that. How about something like F2 Titaniums on the front foot and a TD3 on the rear? Just asking as I swore I saw a guy today with a Burton Race plate on the front and the old Nideckers on the rear...

Sure, shipping would be the same though ($66). Its a killer, I know. Strange no one wants these boots, these are probably the only pair of brand new ones in the entire world and damn fine boots at that. A league above Deeluxes in terms of quality IMHO.

That's your averaged sized ding. I've got millions of them. Want some more? Three options: 1. Ignore it. 2. Sand it down so its smooth. 3. Full repair: epoxy the bastard, then sand smooth, reapply epoxy, sand again... and if you're crazy, plastic filler, sand, add touch up paint, which in your case won't match the wood finish

Bump to the top

Me too.. I value aesthetics as well as taking care of my equipment. If you got a used or new car wouldnt you mind someone bumping, scratching, dinging it? I for sure do. Though I have to say most of these ideas are bound to get you not only arrested but sued to kingdom come. But since we're in crazy land, I'd be more interested in finding out what legal recourse you can pursue if someone dings your snowboard. File a police report? Could this be considered destruction of private property? How could you prove it?

I think Mr.E was aiming at this as well, but doesn't finding the "best fitting boot" have more to do with the liner than the shell?

Oh hell yea its worth a shot! And I think its arriving at a time when hardboot carving is becoming more and more popular, so all the better.

Quite honestly, I find this insane. You want to start publishing a niche magazine in print in this day and age? Dont take me wrong, I seriously impressed with the commitment, but I dont see this surviving unless it has a major backing from the race community.

I know about the Thors, for me theyre a bit too expensive (Im hunting for something in the $30 range), got outbid on two ebay auctions so far. Hopefully your link will direct others to their great gloves.

Oh man I forgot to include a lot of info. But thank you pius for offering, I updated my post

Edit: Closed! Thank you everyone, got some gloves for $20, but cant afford the tongues now :) Oh well.

Still available.