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Ha, just a time out for Mr. Gruumer until we figure out what is going on. Shred, what is the deal? If you want to get to 2000 posts, just let me know and I'll make it happen. just stop the madness!

You should be fine. You also have a back-up plan. You can just reverse the toe block on the bindings and it will go down VERY small. Bottom, they will work with your boots.

yooperbuy, Give me the sole length of the boot and I should be able to let you know. Should be on the side of the boot near the heel.

Sean is correct, our tooling to make these is pretty set in stone. The hardware is what really dictates how wide the system is. You can cut the carbonfiber plate itself down (shorter or narrower in the waist) but the side bosses on ours makes it hard to narrow it down there. If you had a mill you could probably take 3-5mm off the side bosses but it would be close and not sure what it would do the forces on the mounting screws for those. Don't forget, you can buy what we call the "DIY Kit": http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/DIY-Plate-Kit_p_202.html and see if you can adapt to make work with your own custom plate top.

I have to agree with most here, a plate for off trail riding does not seem to work as one expects. I did give it a try once and was not impressed. The extra weight and height became an issue when I was trying to run through the trees. You have to remember a plate works best at the higher speeds, and generally, in back-country it is not a speed thing, but more about maneuverability. One would think the "suspension" would help off trail, but the types of hits you see off trails tend to be low frequency, or slow impacts. Your legs can generally act as the suspension then. On groomed where the speeds are much higher the impacts and changes in snow terrain tend to come at you in fast, sharp hits. Much too fast for your legs to react. The plate does great for this. For now I ride off trail "naked"....no plate that is.

Post it baby!

No idea why in this case? Will keep an eye on though. Posted this from my PC as well. Oh, and I just used my super-duper accurate Mititoyo calipers and my plate is actually 18.399945cm. So pretty much WAY thinner than Sean's plate. Not that it is a big deal....

nekdut, The BP is 18.4cm wide at the pivots. I say this as it does taper down in the middle. So if you have a 18cm waist board it probably is at or over 18.4cm wide as you move away from the center. I did design it to work down to 18cm wide boards. FYI: the UPM mount lower are 19cm wide though. But I have seen them on a 18cm waist board and it still worked fine (because of the side cut difference).

Kyle, Welcome! I would look at the 325 or the 700. Actually, they are about the same as far as stiffness as they are both designed for performance carving. Not until you go to the 225 or Free69 do they start to soften up. Also, you can always add the BTS later on and soften up any boot and tune it more to your liking. As druidfluid alluded too, get the size right! Do NOT go from your Nike shoe size. I repeat, do not. Measure your foot as we describe here: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/Sizing_boots.pdf and call/e-mail us if you have any questions. 95% of our boot issues are people going too big.

funerg, We do sell the Kessler Cross at our BX website here: www.bomberbx.com Any questions let us know.

Famous for his Smooth-Dougall turns at the SES every year, now he is making a living as a magazine model. This guy is everywhere!

OK, thanks to Jack we have the newest version of forum software and he added the Tapatalk function. I just went online and registered the forum (Bomber Carving Community). Works like a champ! Have to admit, was not sold on it but works great from my Asus Tablet. Really neat way to look at the forums. Please try it and let me know if not working properly.

For the record, we only went to 2nd base......then he promised me pie. I just can't say no. And mighty big words for a guy with the worst landscaping I have ever seen. And how about a porch so you can shout at the kids riding their bikes on your lawn (or mud I suppose). Congrats on the house! Now come out and ride with us.

This tends to come up now and then from a member who is convinced this happens. And when asked for details there are none. Corey is right Unicorn Poop, we do not arbitrarily delete threads we just don’t like. To do that would undermine the integrity of this forum and start a trend that no one wants. I always need to remind people that user always have the option to delete/modify their own response and the big one is the user who starts the thread can delete the entire thread. So a lot of time when big pissing matches go down, the thread starter takes the nuclear option, and just deletes the whole thing. That is not us doing it, even though some believe it is. Interestingly enough, I actually appreciate the opportunity to explain or defend the products we make. Just deleting it does not give me that opportunity. For example, the topic brought up here about TD binding breaking metals boards. The story on that was when metal first came out (Kessler), they ran the metal right on the top of the board with nothing else on it. These boards ran great, but where breaking left and right. I remember seeing racers at world-cup event with 2-3 back-up boards as there where fairly sure their metal top board would break and they would need a back-up right away. Initially, some board manufacturers chose to blame our binding. But as time went on and these same boards failed with ALL brands of binding, the real issue came to light. That being aluminum is VERY susceptible to point loads and these metal top boards just could not take the point load from any binding digging into it. The board manufacturers reacted, put a final layer over the metal (a top sheet), problem solved. The TD2/3 was designed with input from many board manufactures to make sure they agreed it would be a very board friendly binding. And that is what we have today. Comapedrosa: my take on a few of your questions. - The Kessler has UPM inserts, do the TD3 SW fit that? The binding itself will only fit on a 4 hole pattern. The UPM pattern is for mounting the plate. Henry is correct, the Kessler 169 we sell also has both 4 hole and UPM. We have two here and they are this way. And Henry is also correct in that the 168 is a great size for all around riding in your neck of the woods. We would sell more 170+ here in the Rockies. But of course, boards from Donek, Coiler, Prior, etc. are also fantastic rides as well. - Do the UPZs fit well into the TD3s? (have always had some play in the front in my F2 Race Ti) No issues at all with fitting. Many, many years ago when they were called UPS, they had a sole block that was not to ISO standards and it did not fit too well in our binding. That was over 10 years ago and not the case now. - Should i get a plate (thinking that i prefer the more direct contact/feel; and usually have plenty of speed - but would be VERY interested in your thoughts!) I really like free riding with a plate. Necessary? Nope. I would honestly say try your setup with-out a plate and go from there. We’ll also be out at ECES this year and will have a bunch of plates you can try on your set-up as well. If you do go for a Boiler Plate I would go with either 4mm or 4mm Lite. Perfect for your weight and height.

Had a chat with an old friend recently and we both agreed, it is time to come back to BOL land. So I wanted to have some fun with this and welcome back CMC. Whether you love or hate him makes no difference, he is still an amazing carver with a life’s worth of knowledge in the carving world. And he promised to be nice as pie :D Welcome back CMC.

First, huge thank you for the order. We appreciate it. We are not a big company and every sale impacts us is a good way. You only need to be concerned on the Long Plate version for regular (toe clip) bindings. All the SI models (both SI and SW SI) work up to M31 snowboard boots. So you are good to go.

You guys are obviously a hazard. Pfttt, I don't see one full 360 deg "loop". Are you guys even trying? Corey? Steve?

Rob, Actually you do not need them to be the same hardness pads (under the heel vs toe). All that happens is you get a average of the two. We have actually been doing this with the standard SW for years now with no issues. One of our distributors actually orders all their bindings this way. We have come to call it a "hybrid" set-up. However, the purest in me always sets up the heel as blue and the toe as yellow as the heel is where the force begins and then you travel to the toe. So the toe should be softer than the heel to not induce a weird twist in the boot. But in reality, probably not even a noticeable difference. So if you feel you need a set-up between medium and soft, a Hybrid setup gives you this.

Correct, the Dynafit toe pieces are an extra and not needed to get started. Yes, our split binding works with current Voile plates. Does add some weight but best we can do for now. Would like to work on own system eventually but that will be a major project that will deserve a lot of time.

Cail, I have been using hardboots on split for almost 10 years now and love it. However, I was using a old set of 322 Raichle boots most of that time. Last season I made the jump to a set of Dynafit Mountain 5 boots and fell in love again. As Raven mentioned, some of these all AT boots are so light it is spooky to walk and ride in them. It feels like you have nothing on your feet. But going up hill or scrambling a rock field is excellent in these things. I would suggest AT boots for split now. And as mentioned here, our friends at Spark R&D have a great adapter for Dyna-fit tow pieces. Keep in mind you do not need these but some feel it helps on uphill. I just use our split binding for both up and down.

icebiker, All advice here is good and solid and I agree with most. Here is my general input on selecting these items when you buy the Bomber Bindings. E-rings: Red - VERY hard, that is why we made them "brick" red. We do not sell many of these but we do have them as some people really want the stiffest interface they can create. Blue - Excellent combination of absorption and edge control. When in doubt, start with Blue. Yellow - lots of absorption and the most movement. Smooth ride but give up some bite on the edge. E-Pads: These are more weight dependent. If you run yellows and you are a heavy guy (say over 180lbs) you can really push them to their limits. So at your weight I would go blues. Correction: as mentioned in a post here the SW binding do NOT come with both sets of E-pads. You need to pick which ones you want at purchase. Also note: the SW SI have a fixed e-pad under the heel. It cannot be removed or changed. We change the front E-pads to create the set-up you want.

Lowrider, Good question: I actually rode with one SW SI for half a season while testing. However, I rode it in back and a standard SI in front. I do agree with some of the concepts here that your front foot is the pillar you stand on and the rear moves around. Or the front foot is the power and the rear is the control. Now this is WAY over simplifying but I do believe this to be the case. So having a more movable front versus rear would be opposite of this description. There is a small difference in height as well for all the series of TD3 bindings. Not a lot though and I have mixed and matched and could not really feel the difference.

Hey guys, the "uppers only" option is coming soon. Hope to have that option up this week. Any other questions just let us know.

Ha, because that footage belongs to the people! Set it free!!!

yooper boy, Legitimate question. The answer is "ask us". The spirit behind the rule of "no new gear" is to not allow dealers or individuals to use the classifieds to sell their stock. Especially gear that we sell here at Bomber. However, a "new" board that is 15 years old, does not fall under this and is OK. Now if you have some new liners from a new boot, just write me a quick e-mail on what you plan to do and we'll most likely OK as long as we don't sell it here at Bomber. When in doubt, ask.