fin

scooter6942, I have a Prior Splitboard 172 that is in prime shape. I am selling her for $400. Let me know if you are interested. Comes with all hardware and skins. Fin ____________________________ Update: this splitboard is sold.

OK, took the time to research more of my options on this new forum package. I have changed the settings so that when someone votes in a poll it does NOT put that threadat the top. This should even the threads out more. I agree, the poll-orgy going on right now is a bit out of hand. However, with the new setting and the "newness" factor wearing off, I think this will calm down a bit. We'll keep an eye on it and see. Splitting up the forum is not something I am looking to do soon. Once this Poll-O-Rama calms down we should be fine. Split forums only starts to work with REALLY large numbers and we are only at 200+ members right now. When the day comes we may look into it but we are fine right now. Tommy D: so your a performance Subaru fan? Right on, I myself am in the middle of a Subi project. E-mail me and I'll give you the details. Whats your ride?

Hello north east will, The biggest issue you have right now is you are just starting to get into carving (congrats!) and you have no "history" to base your choices on. So no matter what, there will be some adjustments and tweaking until you find what works best for you. Also, do not forget you have a stack of other adjustments to work with as well; ie. stance width, stance angles, set-back, boot forward lean, etc. So picking the binding parts is just one of many parts of the equation. Regardless, we should try and get you as close as possible right out of the gun. To be honest our two biggest set-ups are 3/3 and 3/6 so I would say either of these will work great for you. And for the E-ring I would go medium (Purple) to give you a little bit more absorption during the "get comfortable" stages of carving. Then as things get "faster" you might want to try the Reds. Hope this helps and ask more questions if needed.

Ha, you noticed that! :D Yes, the TD2 does have a bottle opener built into it. However, this option is only found on the Standard model as it is located in the Toe Clip. We are working very hard on making this an option for the SI, with hours and hours of testing so stay tuned :D

Sorry cliffh, it has been so rapid fire here with questions I blew past yours. Sorry. O-Fish-ely, the new stiffer spring will not work on TD1 bindings. This is mainly due to the fact that the spring wire stock is thicker and cause two issues with the TD1 Lugs: 1 - the hole in the lugs is too small for the new spring 2 - the new spring is also "wider" and will not fit in the Lug counter bore for the spring. However, we are working on a couple of ideas on a work around for these issues so stay in touch with us and we'll keep you informed. To be honest if we did make a "kit" it would not be until December or later. We are just so slammed with finishing off productions.

Nice Poll Topic! I do have a stack of boards but I always seem to end up in the high 170,s to low 180's. My saying is this: You can make a big board carve small But you cannot make a small board carve big Given, it takes huge effort to make a big board make a tight turn, but it can be done. However, it is tough to make a small board have a larger side cut and do a GS turn.

This one has been a pain in the butt. The new area (as Jack described above) is something I have wanted to do for years. However, most names we come up with do sound like dating services for desperate male carvers :D Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated.

Ed, Jack is correct, frankly that is comparing two different parts that are used in two different ways. So it would not tell you much to try and compare the two parts. Also, another large difference is that our E-ring is made from a special Eurathane made just for this function. The Catek ring (and I could be completely wrong, someone please correct me if I am) uses a rubber based material. These materials are simular in feel but worlds apart in function.

Yep, we have battled with this one before. Chop up the site into various areas or just keep it one large "conversation"? To be honest, I do not think we have enough traffic to need other areas. Nothing worse than 15 forums topics with three posts in each. Looks bad. However, if the day comes (might be sooner than we think!) and this forum starts going super nuts (ie. hundreds of posts an hour) then we would most likely add sections.

Good news: we have a "Second Board Kit" available for the TD2. However, we plan to add this item in the next few days so stay with us on that. It will include: 2 E-rings (or your choice), 2 Cant disks (of your choice), 2 Center Disks (3 or 4 hole), and all the mounting hardware. Coming soon...

C5 Golfer, Yep, no problem. Here is a larger version of what is in the instructions. Gives you a view of both the Standard and the SI. They both use the same lower assembly. You are correct, Bob and I have struggled with ways to show how the suspension system works and we are still working on concepts that we hope to add to the website soon. We will also be adding a PDF version of the entire instructions to the website soon. Take a look at this and let us know if you have any questions. P.S. Bob uses SolidWorks and I use Inventor (as this was done in), so you can see why I beat him to the punch :p

Mike, Right on bringing moe women into the sport. Goodness nows we need them. I always find they take to it very quick and really do well. For the TD2 I would say go with the Yellow (soft) E-rings for starters as they will give you a great amount of absorbtion (smoth ride) but still allow for good old hard-boot edge control. Then, later on, as she gets more aggressive on the deck she might want to try the mediums. The point is I would start with Yellow as it will "ease" the issues with first starting on hardboots. Hope this helps,

Ha, Never occured to me :D So is "Senior Member" better?

Baka, We have actually made a very cool modifcation to the way the new Lug Spring now sits inside the Sole Block. It still does the same job of keeping the bail (be it standard heel bail or SI front bail) from falling down on the board. However, its also creates tension being moved inward (or toward the Base Plate) on the TD2. So now you end up with a bail that wants to stand straight up. Coupled with the 30% stronger spring it is very effective. Yahoo, snowing right now at 6:50 am in Colorado as I write this!

The purpose of the thread is to give everyone a place to ask questions, concerns, and comments about the new TD2 snowboard plate binding we just released. Rather than ask and answer the same questions over and over, we are going to try and keep it all here. So ask away, and myself (Fin) or Bob Jenney or the other super-brains that hang out here will take care of your questions. TD2 Step-In TD2 Standard * Please try to use this thread just for asking questions on the TD2, thank you.

OK, thought I would start a new thread with this amazing picture taken of Adam Smith (US Team) just days before he won the indoor slalom in LANDGRAAF, Netherlands. Crazy air time Remember, your attached pictures cannot be more than 100k and 600 x 800 pixels in size. So optimize!

OK, well for one, I am interested in trying the "polling" function on the new forum. And two, I have always wondered what the real percent is of Regular to Goofy riders? So place your vote and lets find out..... Oh, and with the right diet I am pretty much regular.