philfell

Most older equipment didn't have as much sidecut as newer boards, this is probably why his old pig rode a straight line better.

To make a very long answer short... all of the above mentioned. Different manufactures use differ sidecut geomatry. The ones that don't use a circle take an average and use that number as their "radius".

You are absoutly correct. If your angles get too steep for your board you are losing a ton of leverage. Also if your angles are too steep in general you lose balance. It's a give and take with balance, power, and preferance when talking about binding angles.

I've seen broken parts from every binding on the market. If you put a material through enough stress cycles it will eventually fail. Check all binding parts often!!!!, even if you think your bindings are unbreakable.

I jsut got back from the race to the cup at crystal, mt. I would like to add on to what Fin stated above. This was the best stop this year, the mountain was really excited to have us there and they did an exceptional job accomadating us. They truely went above and beyond what was expected from them. Please put this mountain on your list of carver friendly place to your vaction list.

Most guyes are going toward the phiokka bindings in the last few seasons. In my opinion these are the beast bindings currently offered for raceing. Check out http://www.phiokka.com/.

How do they come up with traditional bail providing more lateral stiffness?? The way an intec heel attaches with the binding is as direct of an interface that has been put into production yet. Sorry, for some reason when I was skimming through this thread I read stiffness, instead of 'softness'. This is correct, disregard what I've said above.

Check what Mirror said above. Some raichles fit better in Burton bindings if you remove the plastic screw completely.

personally i feel 8 is a little ambitious since the lifts don't open until 9. my vote goes for 8:30, i need all the sleep i can get these days.

The td 2's have a larger central mounting disk and this greatly reduces the stress on a boards inserts and core. As far as the td 1's go, in my opinion it's a gamble on any production board if you ride at a high level.

Good luck finding bindings for it. The board you have sounds like it was made before the 4x4 insert pattern was the standard. When this board was made most companies had their own insert pattern, if I remember correctly Morrow used their own pattern. This means that you'll need to track down a pair of morrow bindings that are pre-1993. My advise is to use this board as a wall decoration. If you really want to use this set-up you might be able to take it to an experienced shop person and they might be able to put in some t-nuts or heli coils and then you can use your clickers.

I didn't know that Jean Nerva posted here!

Here's my take. If you can find a f2 in a year 2000 and older that's in good condition grab it without a second thought. If the f2 is 2001 or newer go with a new Donek. The older F2's are the best boards I've ever ridden, but the newer ones have gone down hill (no pun intended), on the other hand Doneks are getting better every year.

Try to get in touch with Donald Nyberg, he has a really good program in Tahoe.

If Skully for some reason isn't available when you come, a friend of mine teaches at Park City. His name is Gregg McCormick, he's level 3 certified and has a great understanding of hardbooting, he is also pretty good at it as well. Phil was the person you met at Brighton name Mike Reilly? I'm really sorry if it was because he isn't the head trainer for their ski school, nor is he a level 3, he has only done one race, and has never ridden with the U.S. Team. He tried to get a job teaching at P.C. and told them he is already on the Olympic team for 2006. We did some checking on his credentials they are made up, sorry if got caught by him.

If the shell is cracking it's probably time for a new pair of boots. As far a life span of a boot, from my own experience it seems to vary. I ride in the Fires and go through multiple pairs a season, I've had some that have lasted eight-to-ten weeks while other have broken within five days on the hill. Some times you get a peach, other times you get a lemon.

Yeah most wind and fire boots will fit an intec heel the only ones that won't are the super small sizes (23.5 and under). As far as the heel peice goes it comes with the binding itself, so if you get a F2 binding you will have a F2 heel.....

rest and ice. Have you had this problem in the past with these boots or is it something new? Have you recently changed your set-up (stance, bindings, board, etc.)? Have you changed your riding style/technique recently? Are you riding more aggressively than before? Any of the above can affect the pressure on your shins. Sometimes your liner breaks down enough that you'll get a pressure point right where the top of the plastic on the outer shell ends. You also might have your boots too tight, or too loose. Start thinking back to when it first started and try to troubleshoot it from there.

I grew up near Bristol!!! I no longer live there, I do know a few hardbooters that still can be seen at another ski area near by called Swain.

Yeah we got the race off. Over-all it went really well. We started the G.S. five minutes behind schedule and the Slalom went off right on time. The turn out was smaller than I hoped for but in line with what I expected. The fastest male and female both came from the Park City Snowboard Team, Abby would have place 3rd overall in the Slalom, had she registared as a guy.

How do they hurt my case for riding in line with the bindings??? His hips ARE in line with his bindings in both pics! As for the second part of your post, I'll be out to Okemo next week with three of my athletes.

Both of the klug pic are great examples of riding in line with the binding angles. The toe side one his hips are in line with the bindings, his shoulders are somewhat more forward. I suspect that they are more forward because he just blew off the panel, he moved his front are up and forward so it didn't have a chance to get caught in the panel and cause him to spin out. If he was truely trying to ride square to his nose his front arm would be more open and would apear to be further to the left of the frame.

Leather Smartwool spring gloves, unless it's real cold (for Utah standards thats under 20 f). Then I have a pair of Burton gloves that do the job. Keep you hands off the snow and you don't have to worry about fixing your gloves.

When riding in a natrual position (body in line with you binding angles) you use your hips more to drive the board and create the board edge angle instead of the knees. To angulate you almost do a sit up in order to keep from leaning into the turn and position your rear hand over your rear boot toe. I've attached a pic of Jeff Greenwood doing a heelside, I think you can see what I'm describing in the pic. greenwood.bmp

Jack, I'm not saying right or worng, it's more like better or worse. There are people out there who claim that you can carve as well in soft boots as you can in hard boots, again I shake my head or chuckle inside. Granted you can carve great in soft boots, but in my opinion hard boots are better. Yes you can carve squaring up to the nose of the board, but riding in line with the bindings in my opnion is better.