newcarver

PRICE IS NOW $275 SHIPPED IN LOWER 48!

Had an interested party that said they would buy them. It's been almost a week and I'm not sure what their intentions are at this time. If someone is interested in buying either or both boards, please let me know. jenintmk3 @ yahoo.com (remove spaces)

I use a Head PX10 binding. Has adjustable stiffness on the highbacks and a very thin heelcup. Another benefit is that the high back angle adjusts with the heelcup as 1 entity. No gap between your highback and the heelcup. Straps are made with cables covered in neopren. Very comfortable. You can also change the angles for mounting without removing the mounting screws. Only drawback is that the back foot is limited to 20 degrees max forward angle. You can find these for around $200 on e-bay. For boots I love my Deeluxe Crest boots. Has a plastic tongue plate and fully moldable liners which can be locked into the back of the boot shell. These are the most comfortable softboots I've ever had and are pretty stiff. I don't think they make them anymore.

Anybody know off hand which bindings will work with a Raichle size 30 shell? Have a friend wanting to try hardbooting. Got him set up with boots and board. Seems the bindings won't expand enough. They are the older SnowPros.

Just for the record, I carve on both hardboot setups and softies. Here is a picture of me a few weeks ago on my Durpaz with 33 and 20 deg angles. smallcarve.bmp

You made a great choice with going full custom. Sean will build you what will work for you're riding style. I was wrong about the width. It would be relative to your foot size. I was going on my own expierence with board widths but I have a 26.5 foot.

I'll still stand by my statements above. I didn't say it would be imposible but more difficult. As far as EC, tell me the specs of all the boards specifically designed to do such. Is there a reason they are all very similar? Probably a little easier to carve with softies on a wider board and low angles. I still say it would be more difficult with low angles and a duck stance. Anything can be carved fairly easily in optimum condition. Try doing it with a less than ideal setup on boilerplate or groomed sloped in the +25 deg range. Its all very relative to the situation, but there are some things that have pretty much been proven to be better than others in a lot of circumstances. If someone is really trying to lay down nice carves then there is a way to setup your equipment to make this easier instead of harder.

Was running 33 20. Unfortunately the bindings I use only let the rear foot got to 20. I run a 26.5M boot and have a tiny bit of toe drag. The bindings have a real thin heelcup.

We have had very little snow and then had warm temps for a while. It is sketchy on almost every run at some point. There are a few good runs where they made a ton of man made snow in the early season. Only problem is they are on boring blue runs for the most part. All the good stuff is very thin. We need about 2-3' to get stuff covered up again. We have pretty much lost the base for most of the mountain. I've noticed that runs that are usually groomed have been skipped over due to the thin cover.

How much base do you need to bring out your good stick? We have been lacking in snowfall this year. Seems like every time I ride I'm hitting a rock somewhere. I got an Oxygen Apex for such occasions, but want to ride some of my nicer boards but don't want to tear up the bases. Have already taken a core shot to one of my favorite boards. We just got 6" but don't think this will add adequate coverage to be safe.

About the only picture I have carving. It just happens to be with softies on a powder board. Taken on part of the run that was used for Dec WC PGS course in Telluride.

Sale pending. Will update any status changes.

1st time I tried hardbooting I ran somewhere around 50 F and 45 R. It was very painful and felt totally akward. I backed the angles off a bunch even though it would overhang. I couldn't really get the board up high enough on edge to matter in the begining anyway. Still ran around 40 F and 30 R on a wider freecarve board. Got comfortable with that and would just crank the angles up a little bit each time I would go ride. Now comfortable running 58-50 angles on hardboots and started running 30+ F and 20 on softies. Best to do it in steps so you can adjust to it. With the duck stance, you will probably not be able to carve on your heel side very well.

You could carve with a wider board. It would just make it more difficult. Same goes with bindings/stance settings. You're weight distribution would be all weird with the low angle duck stance. The Swoard boards are made for EC type carving. This is a unique style that requires lower boot angles and a wider board. They still run angles in the 40's-30's though. I to used to surf and skate. I used to ride duck stance too. Now, even with soft boots, I can't run angles less than about 28 and 15+ on both feet. I can carve though and still ride everything from backcountry powder to steep mogels. I used to even do 50-50s on handrail in the park with these angles. Forgot to mention that carving generally uses more of your lateral force from your foot than a fore aft movement. You kind of use leverage off your boot sides. This is why the hardboot works for carving and softboot carving is done with a very stiff boot/interface.

Going with a board that wide and trying to carve is an exercise in futility. It would be so slow edge to edge. You are going to have to compromise some. Carving with a duck stance will also inhibit you. Try using something around +25-30 front and 15-20 rear to start with. You should be able to get comfortable with that. If you are riding the big stance widths that most softerbooter are now days, lower that some too. Should make a big difference.

I will be out of town for a few days after today. Won't have internet access after tomorrow morning. Will be back home sometime Sunday. I will answer e-mail in the order they are recieved. Thanks for your patients.

WhooHooo! Have a 3800 on its way! Can't wait to be riding a replica of my old friend. Will be riden with it to. Thanks Allee

Thanks Tex. Forgot about the Coda and Tinkler boards. Yes, Bomber has a good selection of boards, AllBoardSports, Exotic, and Hardbooter. Have bought boards from Bola and RJ at Exotic. Both easy to deal with. Same goes with Bomber. Haven't got a board from them but bought bindings and boot parts from them in the past. Donek is easy to work with and he will build you a custom based on what you are looking for. Sean knows his stuff.

Make sure you are not "booting out" on your heelside.

Seems most boards for carving are in the 170+ range. Most have titanal alloy in the top sheet, variable sidecut radius, and decambered nose/tail. Basically makes boards easier to ride I believe and have better overall performance. Smooths out the ride and has better edge hold. Probably takes confidence level up a notch. Will find out soon as I bought a metal Coiler. Yes, there are only a few producers of carving gear now days. Only 1 board maker in the US Donek. 2 in Canada. A lot more to choose from in Europe. For a complete new setup, you're talking about $1500-2000 for boot, bindings, and board. You can find a lot of newer gear for sale for a lot less though. This is where I would start. Most any bindings in good shape will work, no matter how old. Lots of older boards are still plenty good. I just picked up an Oxygen Apex 165 with Blax bindings that I'm riding as a rock board. It is from the late 90's. Is still plenty of fun. Most any of the newer style hardboots will work great. Raichle, Head, Oxygen, UPZ etc. Any boot that is newer than the old vibram soled ones should be good.

SOLD! It is a SL board. I believe it is a 2008 model. Has titanal butterflys. Very fun snappy board. Stance will only go out to about 20" if you are centered in the outer inserts. I think this is 21cm wide. Has a 10M sidecut. Not sure about the EE but looks to be around 140 cm. Board is pretty damp and holds a great edge. Nice for tight turns on busy slopes. Base is a 9 with only very minor scratchs. Edges are nice and sharp. The topsheet has some scuffing from bindings, but otherwise is very good. Will sell for $250 shipped in lower 48. Won't budge on the price. If I don't sell I will still ride it. Don't really need this board but like it alot. Will take paypal on either one. If you are coming to Telluride anytime soon I can take some off for shipping. E-mail me at jenintmk3 @ yahoo.com (remove spaces). Thanks for looking

Selling my almost new SG Speed 178. It is an 09 model I believe. Just bought it and have only riden it 2 days. Fun board. A little on the stiff side for my weight/abilities. Buying a metal Coiler so this has to go so my wife doesn't kill me! Base is a 9.5 out of 10 Very light scratches. Will send with fresh coat of wax. Edges are perfect. Topsheet is almost perfect. There is a very small area that has very fine crack marks. See pic. Specs are 149 running length, 19.4 cm waist, 13.3M sidecut, and 50cm reference stance. Bindings are not included. Asking $425 shipped in the lower 48.

Want to get inline for the AM! I'll PM you.

It is the person uphill responsability to know what is in front of them. If you are going over a blind knoll, you should check your speed and make sure it is clear. If I ever jump off of a cat walk crossing a run, I will usually have a spotter or slow down to make sure it is open. I never go over a blind spot full bore without knowing it is clear. And yes, no one should stop under a blind spot either.

Hope the worked out for you. They are pretty nice if your foot will fit. Just a tad too tight for me. Glad someone else could make use of them.