xxguitarist

clear/transparent kryptos are pretty slow (same for gravity krypto-types) the old classics, especially the blue 80/85mm are very popular for euro style DH, because they drift beautifuly. seismic/3dm, abec11/pink/retro, (some)s9, tunnel, and some other brands make good quality wheels

what gecko said, plus that the gumballs chatter more in a slide than the flys. no real reason to go past the 83mm size though, unless its purely to roll over everything- they're as big as you need for a practical top speed increase. another wheel i've ridden for you to consider is the sector 9 GOS(76mm), its a great wheel with a little more drift than a gumball, for crusing and such, its a little cheaper with zero performance loss. {edit} as gecko says below, 81mm bombhills is also from the quality 'thane.

More toestops.. for deep concave, 1/8'' baltic birch will do you well. if you want to press drops, go for the 1/16'' maple.

toe stop. common for pumping and slalom decks, keeps your foot from sliding forwards durring hard riding.

browse away: http://uri.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2045508&l=8b627&id=14310970

what are you considering "agressive curves", then?by the way tony.. 2 plys of your board are in the bag, and the wheelwell layers are cut & ready to add tomorrow.

drop decks? if so, you're better off with a wood mold, pressing with pressure generated from tightening bolts, or a hydraulic ram.

dont bother with their wood, unless you need to be pressing agressive curves. 1/16'' maple is a good bit more expensive than 1/8'' baltic birch plywood. just make sure you get BALTIC birch, the other stuff isnt all hardwood. comes in 5x5 foot sheets, you can also get 1/4'' thickness if you only will be pressing very mild curves. titebond III is the general top choice for this work, even though its a little expensive. its a lot of fun, and a great way to save some money while getting to try out all kinds of new boards:biggthump if you need more info, i've had a bit of practice with these presses & can probably help you out.

roarokit vaccum bags are great, i've built at least six boards in mine already. quick and cheap to try out a new concave/camber/rocker/kick/etc combination, too.

downhill style bushing & truck setup, on a carving board, interesting. did you get the flex a bit stiff for your weight too?

gravity makes good solid basic boards. they're nothing fancy, but they've got a great practical lineup, and at good prices.

biltins are temporarily out of stock pretty much everywhere. RocknRons ballistech bearings are coming out now, and his old bearings are great too. other than that, good budget choices are the bones reds and minilogos, if you want to spend somewhat more, theres the classic bones swiss, in several flavors:biggthump

i've ridden several vanguards of varius flexes, and they're nice boards. they need soft bushings to be at their best though (khiro blue or softer) im not a big fan of them personally, because they have a symetric flex (in the middle) whereas i prefer a flex 2/3 of the way back or so (like pintails generate) i build my personal boards to have that flex regardless of shape. anyway, theyre very popular boards, and have great construction. i enjoy them, but i'd enjoy more if i could pick the design, it just doesnt quite match my style.

again, i'm with gecko. the GOS & bombhills wheels are a major step up. the topshelfs arent bad either. They make some good decks- some of the bamboo ones, and the trylam. all but their top of the line completes tend to be pretty sucky, and they make a lot of different decks with no significant difference in purpouse. anyway, they get new people into the sport, so its not all bad.

if you want a dedicated pumping board, look for something moderately wide at the nose, probably tapering towards the tail. a bennett is a great front pumping truck, tracker rts or similar is good for the rear. randals will work too, but i dont like 'em as well for pumping. carver CX trucks are probably the top choice, they're supposed to pump effortlessly, i just havent ridden them. londgoardlarry, chicago longboards, and roe slalom all make dedicated pumping boards, as well.

agreed. sidewinders are an interesting concept, but you're better off with other trucks. gullwings in general arent much good now that they're owned by sector 9, but some of their old stuff wasnt bad.

trackers lean more before a significant turn, they respond slower, indys are quicker to respond but may not be as "carvy" for some people.. bent pivots make a nice rear truck though. i'll only put them in the front if they're a bennett vector, that truck turns quicker/sharper than an indy btw, gecko, the wood came in, so i ought to be able to get working down my list of boards that have been ordered- i'll get on yours as soon as i can, working around exams.

76mm gummies i think you meant to type:) how flexy do you want, and what length?

small to large: -gravity bruce logan 30'',wedged Tracker RTS/X, Seismic hotspots split duro green(83a)/blue(77a), biltins bearings, stock hourglass bushings -35'' custom LDP, Wedged Bennett vector & RTS, Seismic hotspots 80a(white), Revenge bearings, red/orange khiro barrel bushings, bones hardcore soft bushing, tracker yellow stimulator bushing. -Sector 9 Trylam, RII 150s, 70mm lemon zigzags or 95a 65mm rainskate tsunami, bones reds, assorted stim bushings -Landyachtz Drop Wedge, Holeys, 85mm 79a Seismic Speedvents or 76mm 78a flywheels, biltins bearings, dropped a little extra -41'' custom topmount speedboard, Force C7s, 77mm abec11 Strikers 78a, bones reds bearings, stock/khiro/bones bushings -64'' custom boardwalking/ land-windsurfing board, original S10s, 81a Abec11 gumballs, bones reds. :o stop looking at me like that, i'm not addicted. bailing at 15 or so does suck, but its a lot better than 25+.. at that speed you hit and just slideeee along until eventually you start to slow down, usually wind up with some scattered roadrash through jeans & outside of the padded areas

you dont like 'em? anyway, i've got a set but heres some info for those of you not on silverfish. flywheels, especially in the larger sizes are mainly DH wheels. this size and duro combination is amazing for speedcarving, as well as downhill on the shorter or shallower runs. they ride a little harder than a 78a gumball, because theres a larger core. they'll break loose nicely, dont chatter as much as some. i've run my set on a landyachtz drop wedge, and it was a great setup.. i just recently switched them over to the seismic 85mm 79a speedvents, because some of my hills were better matched to a larger wheel. short version: great wheel, drifts nice, underappreciated size for this wheel, get 'em

just come on over to silverfish i've been there longer than here, same username.

i've talked to the owner of the company, they're based in CT.. They've got a couple areospace engineers working with them on their composite constructions, which impressed me.. very friendly guys, email them if you're interested.. they responded quickly to me with some info, previews, etc.

hmmm.. its near my girls condo.. maybe i'd better stay with her ;)

one for sale in the sell thread now $300.. the guy posted at the bottom of the original thread, so it will appear sold till you read the last post!

thats similar to how i usually set mine. chest height at the trees, 25 foot span, and the center stretches to quite near the ground under a slight bounce. one word of caution.. if you're falling off of it, "pick a side" ie: dont straddle the nylon webbing, its a high tension elastic band with the normal height being chest height... good way to kill a chill afternoon, and wind up lying on the ground in pain