Pow

I did notice phiokka's other models looked much cheaper than the the one i have, especially the one with the cant/lift disk. the model i have seems to be fine, but ill be keeping my eye on it from now on.

my last post wasnt very clear, sorry... yyz, what made you think the bindings weren't very solid? sloppy manufacturing? weak parts? were there problems with the plastic toe clip? the metal bails? the baseplate? toe blocks? heel blocks? hardware (all of which i replaced over the summer)? was there a specific model that had issues? were they very appearent or subtle problems? and finally can you give me a specific example? I really want to make sure now that I wont wind up hurting myself next time i hit the snow and that i wont be dissapointed halfway through the season if my bindings fail me. I still can't find any problems, but i want to know what I might be dealing with in the future. I will be purchasing TD2s for my alpine board, but im leaving the phiokka on the longboard unless i find that they wont hold.

of course they dont seem to be in any sort of distress, but im concerned now. Is there some sort of internal problem? spontanious failures? what exactly is wrong with the Ph46-6?

mine are still in great shape... what exactly happened to the bindings you describe? perhaps they were a different model? I wanna know if i should be tossing these for safety reasons!

sorry for the late response... here they are. http://www.phiokka.com/hard_3.html pogo sells some, im not sure who else does but theyre a very solid binding.

dont forget the Phiokkas... stiff alu binding, good on-the-board feel, simple design and adjustment devices.

where are you located?

as soon as youre done stroking it while chanting "my precious", make sure post some pictures of your shiney new gear:biggthump

unfortunately my choice is: 1) buy all the boards on my mind at the moment and be poor the rest of my life 2) go to college and be financially secure the rest of my life, buying whatever boards i feel like whenever i feel like it. sadly the testing's going to have to wait... ive already pushed the limit of my minimum wage budget on my current snowboard gear. The idea of getting a well paying job appeals more than getting a few new and last boards... i am only 17 so i dont have the resources other carvers have.

i was in absolute shock when i walked into a nearby ski shop and actually saw with my own eyes numerous new one piece suits for sale:eek: I practically died i was laughing so hard. but the one that really got me was this hilarious reversable one piece... on one side it was booring black, but the other side was heavy fur... it looked just like a yeti costume! If it wasnt $300 I would have brought it home to wear on halloween for the rest of my life:D

Gleb, you know better:nono: snowboards kick skiis' asses when it comes to powder.

perhaps if i ever get rich i can do some testing myself then:rolleyes:

^unless its a ruler:lol: those boots are like riding with casts on. the driver x is much more compact, with more freerider goodies:biggthump

Alpine snowboards have changed a bit while you were out, freecarve boards are more versitile than their race oriented predecessors. if you want a great carving board for hard surfaces, donek, prior, coiler, madd, pogo, and virus all make great quality freecarving boards. they'll all do customs too if you want. If you're looking for uber strength, i suggest pogos. but others will soon suggest more gear for other reasons as well. the length you'll be looking for (considering you want a turnier board for slower conditions) is between 160 and 175. most boards have a few lenghts in that range. If you want even more versatility, then the prior 4WD is considered a great board for carving everywhere, but so is the donek axxess. Numerous bx boards might be good too, such as the madd bx, the f2 eliminator, and pogo snowboards makes 3 bx models. bindings: I like standard bindings, i have more confidence in them than the stepin system and theyre still faster to get on than any softboot binding ive used, including flows. TD2s are the best freecarving binding, thanks to the suspension system. boots: suzukas are the medium boot provided by deeluxe. great shells, comfterble flex for freecarving, but plastic buckles. deeluxe just came out with two new boots with metal buckles which you may also consider, one beeing a stiffer (race-ish) boot and one beeing a softer (freeride-ish) boot. there's my input, good luck and welcome back:biggthump

catek freeride pros.

collapsable touring skiis... like these? http://zigzagtour.de/index2.htm sorry, its all in german

130 lbs? i'd recon the FP to be too stiff for somebody 130 lbs, especially for a beginner.

Of course he'd enjoy a pogo... great boards by great people:biggthump i just didnt want to suggest such an expensive board to somebody looking for a first "real board". It sounds to me like he is using an aggressive forward type riding style, and the Madd 158 is designed just for that riding style, and its a short turny board, so it made sense to me. The pogos are very effective with this riding style as well, though. and the striped ptex/ wood topsheet/ sharkbite tail screams alpine:cool:

i would also like to know... its a neat shape, and id like to know how it compares

from what youve posted it sounds to me like you might be in the market for a Madd 158, but youd have to hear from somebody with more experience to be sure.

no i havnt been caught in drag, fortunately:o but a girl i knew did have me dress up to watch that movie once

sure, but it'll still be a few weeks before we can actually start riding... waiting to ride sucks:angryfire

great job:biggthump i'll be interested to see the 07 gear guide. I love seeing all the new gear almost as much as i enjoy riding it:p

Derf must be refering to the furnaces... the winds are way too fragile to talk like that:smashfrea but they are great boots while they last:biggthump

every board loses camber, but pogo snowboards hold thiers much better than others.