Pat Donnelly

http://www.ytgloves.com/products.asp?productId=264&categoryId=40&subCategoryId=0&subCategory2Id=0

So I applied a small piece of duct tape over the bolt head, machined recessed area on the toe-plate of my rear binding a few weeks ago and it has worked to eliminate snow / ice build up in the immediate area. If you experience problems engaging your rear foot, the first thought is snow on your heel, sometimes it is? Most times the issue is a nipple of ice forming over the toe plate bolts (both bolts) and it can be a challenge to remove and prevent re-occurence.

Treat your edges like a fine knife. Once the edge angle is defined you should be able to maintain the sharpness by honing and polishing (maintenance). I have my boards ground, which should establish a flat base and set your edge angles; for me, it's 0.5 degrees on the base and 2 degrees on the edges. Next, the boards are hot-boxed at the same shop. From there I will use the Wax Wizzard on the base and POLISH the edges. I do not tinker with the base metal. For the sides, I use a 2 degree guide and spring clamp to hold the files and employ a series of 4 diamond files of ascending courseness followed lastly with an Arkansas whetstone. http://www.tognar.com/deburr_tips_edge_polish_repais_ski_snowboard.html

Posting a video would certainly help others to critique and may help you see what you are doing versus what you may think you are doing. Video analisys of my riding helped me a lot. Equal edge weighting? Some have mentioned "feeding the dollar bill" or the "figure 8" progression weight transition (longitudinal) over the boards center from turn to turn. Maybe this will help http://snowboarding.transworld.net/photos/backcountry/the-core-four/

Quote: <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by Pat Donnelly Buggs - I had the 179 4WD, perhaps the 169 is a bit short for you? </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> I was thinking the same thing, but I believe if Im a solid rider I should be able to rock on just about any length quality board Buggs - I am 6 ft & weigh 210 lbs. I was relating back to our Rossi World Cup boards 170, 184 & 190. The 170 never felt stable by comparison, kind of squirrely as compared to the 184. I have had a couple of 179 4WD's and they are a fun board.

The outcome can depend upon the type of footbed you have under the toe portion; flexible or firm. I have both and I found the flexible was curling up in the toe area and cramping the fit. With the rigid version I seem to have a bit more wiggle room and comfort.

Mondo size 27 2nd strap / cable lenght = 8"

On my 09 700's and with the toe in the 2nd notch, the first three positions on the 2nd or arch buckle do not engage. But then I try not to crank them as tight as possible, just sufficiently snug.

You may want to remove the straps from both the left and right boots to compare the strap lengths.

Have you turned the buckle to tighten the micro adjustment? Turn it clockwise to tighten.

You might want to remove the anchor screw to lift the red cover to see if the cable is routed around the round anchor. The cable takes a little effort to get it in position.

5th season and still holding strong. No shoe goo or goop. But I am on my 2nd pair of liners with these gloves; purchased separately. http://www.thundercloudmarketing.com/FreePage22.htm

Buggs - I had the 179 4WD, perhaps the 169 is a bit short for you?

Read http://snowboarding.transworld.net/photos/backcountry/the-core-four/ Buy "SportLegs" http://www.sportlegs.com/about/welcome.asp Find a local hardbooter for some on hill tips to get you going.

Getcha a bottle of http://www.sportlegs.com/about/welcome.asp Needs to be taken before the burn sets in. Generally, one hour prior to activety. Can be a multiple carving day trip saver!!

http://community.freeskier.com/videos/video.php?video_id=2084

check your foot bed, is it large enough and firm in the area where you notice the loss of feeling? I molded my new liners with the rigid footbeds and using Intuition's toe boxes. This combo helped my fit, no doubt.

http://www.yyzcanuck.com/E_tech_article06.htm My complaint on the SF series was snow had entry points when the boot was flexed; near the ankle joints and near the front of the boot at the tongue hinge point. This lead to colder feet and a bit of extra moisture or dampness in the liner. At one point I placed duct tape over the tongue hinge to block the snow. I do ave not experienced this with two pairs of AF seriers. To your original question . . . equal sized boots, "fit" was the same between the two styles. Biggest change in "fit" for me was change in footbeds. The footbed base my Raichle's was soft or flexible in the toe area. Found this curled and made a compressed fit within the boot. This year I am using my ski-boot footbed which has a firm or rigid base in the toe area and allows for a bit of wiggle room with toes and more comfort.

or find someone who has a set or size you need http://www.toolvice.com/screw-extractors.html

Should not be an issue if using a T handle wrench http://www.wihatools.com/300seri/334serie.htm

Here's a link to photos from the article http://www.skinet.com/skiing/resorts/2009/12/paoli-peaks-indiana

If you can get duct tape to adhere to the heel or toe pads of your boots then it just might work to repel the snow. Another thought is to fill in the bolt heads and the machined areas on the TD toe plates with silicon caulk OR duct tape over the toe plate of the binding.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nNhOH4Y0bI

Mike Doyle and Joey Cabell photos by Larry Castruita.

Evolved from softies? http://www.apexsportsgroup.com/index.htm