lamby

You can demo Phantom gear at these upcoming events: Feb. 18th to 20th - Gore Range Sports - Silverthorne, CO Feb. 25th to 27th - Bluebird BackCountry - Kremmling, CO March 4th to 6th - Wasatch Touring - Salt Lake City, UT March 11th to 13th - Teton Splitfest - Jackson, WY April 1st to 3rd - Front Range Splitfest - Winter Park, CO April 14th to 17th - Silverton Splitfest - Silverton, CO You can email Phantom for more info at: info@phantomsnow.com Phantom also puts out an email newsletter that I find entertaining and educational.

Re-looking at them, Phantom Tech Toes appear to be very similar to Spark R&D Tech Toes. Like the Dynafit toe clamps, they have long locking levers at the front of the toe pieces.

I'm using the Phantom Tech Toes, which I believe are a modified design that is very similar to the Dynafit Toe clamps. I am having the same issue with them when I set up my front binding. I was wondering what else might be available - something that didn't have such a long locking lever in front. The option you show looks just like the ticket. How are the Voile STS Touring Toes working for you?

I also once asked Phantom if they might be interested in developing a system that would allow steeper angles. At the time (a few years ago) they said they didn't feel that there would be much of a market for them. I think they mentioned that the cost of tooling up to make them would be too high for expected return. I think there would be a limited market for Phantom Adjustable 3 in 1 Cleats (the ones for solid boards) that allowed for steeper angles than 30 degrees. Would tooling up to make them be justified for a company like Phantom? - lots of variables and considerations that someone from the outside looking in may not be able to fathom. But, if they were available, I think some people would buy them - so that they could run Phantom Plate bindings on their solid boards. Personally, I will continue to ride F2 and Carve Company plate bindings on my solid boards. They are light and work good. My splitboard is setup with Phantom bindings. All of their cleats (3 kinds available) allow max angles of 30 degrees. I was nervous that I would not adjust well to a splitboard setup, as I normally ride steeper angles than what splitboard setups can accommodate. It has been an adjustment, getting used to riding shallower angles. I normally ride with angles of around 55-60 front 45-50 rear. Lower angles was a learning curve, but not huge and things are feeling better and better the more I ride the set-up. BTW, my boots for my splitboard setup are Atomic Hawx 130. I added Phantom Link Levers (green/medium springs to them). My splitboard is a Jones Solution 161. I've been in the backcountry on it just a couple times. Also, I've been riding my split at the resort to get more used to it. It's going great. Getting more used to slacker angles and the new boots and other system parts. Setting up the splitboard, I found that if you want to run the steepest availalble angles (30 degrees front and rear) you may find that you need to set the board up with a stance that is wider than you want (or that you are used to). And you may also find that the placement of your stance on the board, front to rear, is also impacted if you want to run steeper angles. Not sure if that makes sense, but some of the other system parts, that must go on a split setup, may limit where you place your bindings. As I was setting up my bindings on my splitboard I found that going with the steepest available angles (30 degrees) on my setup would mean that my stance would be wider than I preferred, and that my stance location was impacted by system parts and binding angle choices. This is because there are toe pieces (for ski mode - uphill travel) installed right behind the front binding, and heal risers installed right in front of the splitboard's rear binding. In the end, I went with a front binding angle that is less than 30 degrees in order to accommodate not having the front binding's rear-bail make contact with one of the ski toe-pieces. I could have stayed with a 30 degree binding angle, and just moved the front binding forward more - into the next set of inserts, but this would have put me into a position on the board that was too nose heavy. On the rear binding, I went with an angle that is slightly less than the front, and I moved it back quite a ways. If I had it tight in - moved forward toward the toe risers - it was a stance of around 19 or 20 inches wide (about what I have often used). But when riding the board I was too far forward. So I moved the rear binding back and opened up my stance quite a bit. I like how it rides - I like my stance location as it is set up now. Wider stance than I am used to, but feels fine and good. Regarding Phantom quality and level of service. I'm very impressed with the quality of the bindings and other Phantom products I bought to set up my split. Customer service has been top-notch with my emails answered promptly. I had some adjustment questions and other inquiries before and after my purchases and I always got the help I needed. They will get on the phone with you, make a video of how to adjust a part of the system you need help with, or do what ever it takes to take care of any issues you may have. They are awesome.

Good advice. It makes sense that taking up archery would be the perfect approach. I'm on a program called Crossover Symmetry and one of the exercises is called "Archer." I'm pleased with how things are going. I'm building strength and stability and getting out with a brace that limits range of motion in the event of a fall.

Good luck Alpinegirl. Wow, how things can change on a dime. Hope your healing continues.

ibrussell is spot on - Carve Company bails are the same. They are the same as the Burton bails, which Burton no longer sells. You can get them at Pure Boarding https://www.carversparadise.com/de_DE/products-list/kategorie/zubehor-snowboard-boots-bindung-ersatzteile/speed-cc BTW, with continued use, all binding bails will fatigue and break, even the heftier ones. I've broken bails on Trench Diggers, so I started replacing bails on those too (when I was riding them, back in the day)

I'm old and in the way now, but I have many hours on Ultra Prime 162. A forgiving board with what I find to be a delicious sidecut radius of 11ish. Hang on to it and compare it to whatever new technology goodness you decide on. Bindings. I have friends who swear by their step-in set ups. I've good things about them, but I like my standard "flip" the toe bail closed systems. I ride Carve Company (Burton Race plate style). I also change out the bails on them every two years of hard use. I break the bails on them if I push the number of days on them. They flexible bindings and light weight. I like them, but not realiable if you are buying used. Buy new bails if you are going to keep using your current race plates ( better yet, if you want a forgiving, softer plate binding consider F2 Carve RS = bails are thicker than the bails on Burton Race Plate/Carve Company http://i-carve.com/f2_carve_rs I have ridden Trench Digger Ones and Threes, for many years. They were more durable than Burton Race plates, but they also stiffened up the boards, or seemed to do so. I liked them though, especially on bigger, stiffer, longer sidecut radius boards. I don't ride those stiffer longer boards anymore though. Maybe again someday - one can hope (if physical therapy pays off on injured shoulder). Putting Trench Diggers on a board made it feel like the board was responding to very little input from the foot/ankle/leg/... If I was buying Trench Diggers I would definitely get sidewinders. I also ride F2 Race Titanium bindings. Stiffer than F2 Carve RS. Very fine and durable binding. Adjusting F2s for boot sizing is super easy. Sorry for the ramble, but excited that you found this great forum. Welcome welcome fellow booter!!!

Thanks for asking about this 1xsculler. I didn't know about SG Performance Bindings, and I'm glad to know of their availability.

Nitro Squash - very popular with many locals here.

https://www.carversparadise.com/en_US/products-list/category/tools-snowboard-binding-boots-spare-parts/speed-cc Joerg got right back to me when I emailed him with an inquiry. They have replacement bails in stock at the above link.

Thanks for the photos and input Algunderfoot. Your info that braces tend to pull things in, and that it becomes painful is really good to know. Your strap (sounds like kibber used a similar device during rehab) being a limiter, without being restrictive or trying to pull shoulder in makes sense. \Thanks for your good advice and for relating your long road back KD. It is good to know that while some have a very long and difficult recoveries, that it can be "fixed." I've been wondering about such things. Thanks for giving me some good help vibes all!

So interesting to me - what's the perfect powder board, or what's great about different powder boards. I ride resort powder (plate bindings and hard boots) and I like Burton Malolos. I have a 158 and a 162. My wife has a 156 and likes it a lot. I also have a burton fish 160 that is fun too, but not as forgiving on the groomers as the Malolo. Would love to try some other powder boards and shapes. Local shop has some beauty's that would be cool to demo.

Thanks Ace.

Does anyone know of a supplier/source for Carve Company binding replacement bails?

Thanks Corey, That simple strap system sounds like the type of thing that might be useful for my situation. I found this brace online - it might help me with support and limiting range of motion: https://www.dme-direct.com/breg-curtis-shoulder-cuff-full-rom-brace

I dislocated my shoulder last winter and I've re-injured it again a couple times this season. I'm thinking that a shoulder brace that adds some support and some limiting of the range of my arm movement might help. I've been trying to back off and to not drag my hand on toe turns at all. Original injury was on a toe turn and going fast - hand touched man-made snow and stuck in - arm wrenched back on overhead causing dislocation that required trip to hospital. I recovered w/o surgery. This year I fell on a toe turn and re-dislocated it, but I was able to pop it back in w/o trouble. Not too painful. Maybe not a complete dislocation? Other times this year, steep terrain and powder and throwing my arm up to compensate for a mistake and sharp pain in shoulder (didn't dislocate it then, but sharp pain let me know I was pushing it). Today, in powder, I touched snow briefly to help with a mistake and it dislocated in what appeared to be a minor fashion, popping back in quickly with a roll of the shoulder. Ugh. Does anyone use a brace that helps provide support to dislocated shoulder while helping to limit movements that might lead to dislocation? Thanks in advance for any ideas or input. Best, Lamby

I just got a pair of Atomic Hawx 130 AT boots for my splitboard setup. I added the Phoenix lever link spring system to them. I also ski and I think the Hawx will be a good boot for skiing. Not hard charging alpine boots, but much more downhill capable than some of the very light weight AT boots out there. If I use them for skiing I will likely want to re-install the original Atomic levers on them. I'd enjoy renting/demoing a pair of AT skis to give the boots a try for skiing. For snowboarding at the resort (not riding my split) I use Deluxee 700s with BTS blue springs. On days when I ride narrower boards I run steeper angles, so the longer length sole length of the Atomix Hawx would not work for me on those types of snowboards. The AT ski boots will be fine for when I'm riding wider all-mountain or powder boards, but I will likely continue to use my 700s for riding powder, as I really like them for that. And I don't see myself changing my binding sizing around to accommodate the Hawx. Hawx are nice and light and all, but I'm very satisfied with 700s for lift-accessed and such riding. I'm a size 10 foot and wear size 27 boots. My Deluxee 700 soles are 289 millimeters long. My Atomic Hawx soles are 312 mm long.

Skidding is a big part of my riding. I'm not obsessed with carving a pencil thin line for every bit of every run. I'm dumping speed when I need or want to. I use a skid, when that makes sense, or if it seems like doing so will add to the fun I'm having. I'm with Corey: Many years ago, when I was an apprentice carpenter, a journeyman carpenter friend gave me some sage advice. He said, "Don't strive for perfection. It's unattainable. Instead, strive for the illusion of perfection." My snowboarding is far from perfect, and far from even an illusion of perfection. But I think a good deal of the joy I find in alpine snowboarding is in concentrating on finding fun ways to slide around on the mountain. At times it's trying to hold carved turns one after the other. At other times it's about sliding and slashing speed, then a carve or two, then start a carve, then slide into a skid, or vice-versa. on and on having fun and not concerning myself with always trying to carve every bit of every turn. The type of riding where every turn is carved perfectly is awesome. More power to those who want to pursue that exclusively.

Great point QQ. I have a pretty typically shaped feet I think. The first toe (after big toe) is the longest. And yes, the tip of that longest toe, especially left foot, (I'm regular footed) takes a lot of the impacts and stresses. In particular the tip of that left, longest toe seems to develop a lot of callus just below the front of the nail - at its tip. After showering I will often spend a bit of time with a callus rasp to remove some of that build up, before it gets excessive. Outside of big toe (left foot) and front footpad (interior-side in particular) gets a lot of callus. Extreme rear area of heel on left foot gets a lot of callus build up, but that may be left-over from summer work boots. Not sure, but it is always built up with callus. Right foot does much less work, and is much less impacted/in need of maintenance or added protection. I had never thought about the adding a tiny amount of hard bootfitters-foam in front of other, shorter toes, to help distribute the load. Thanks a lot for the input!

If only I had... bigger balls ...this moment would be perfect

Thanks Corey and RoroSnow. Pointing me toward liner modifications makes good sense. I'm probably overdue for new liners too.

Hi all, Does anyone have any recommendations for the padding of toes. I presently utilize gel toe-protector caps - on my big toes, and my next biggest toes of both feet. My toes are doing fine so far this season, and I think using the caps has helped, but wondering if there is a better product out there than the gel products I'm using. They work, but it seems like they are trapping moisture, and they get cold. In the past I've used Second Skin products with success in areas that were getting too much pressure, or for things like bad shin-bang. Maybe there is something like that, in a toe-protector-cap or other product that I should try out. I use something very similar to this product: a brand of gel toe-protector caps Thanks in advance for any ideas. Best, Lamby

I just went to Prior's website and I see that they are having a boxing day sale with 20% off custom builds. (Not sure how long the sale will last.) If you are in the U.S. the exchange rate from Canadian dollars to US dollars is also favorable. https://www.priorsnow.com/collections/custom-snowboards/Mens

Hi Daniel, Welcome welcome!!! You will not regret getting into hardboots and carving. Booters are a friendly crowd, so keep asking questions and seeking out advice. I got into it quite a while ago. I was riding soft gear and cranking my bindings down hard to try and reduce heal lift while learning to carve a bit. There was one shop in town that was renting alpine snowboard gear - , Ski Tek. That was sweet, being able to try out hard boots/plate bindings, before committing to purchasing gear. My wife and I rented gear and headed to Soldier Mountain for a day-trip. My first run was pretty sketchy, but the place was empty and I could hardly go wrong with the mellow runs at Soldier. After a while I was hooking it up and getting a feel for riding hard boots. By mid-day I was hooked and new I would be looking to purchase my own gear. You can learn a lot on your own, but getting some good on-the-hill instruction can be a big help. I live somewhere where we happen to have a local ripper who is an instructor at the local resort. My wife and I took some lessons from Jerry Hadam at Sun Valley. The resort used to host "local's clinics," and Jerry was one of the snowboard instructors. We took advantage of a couple of those clinics. Getting instruction from Jerry helped us so much. Jerry still teaches here, so if you ever get the chance take a lesson from him/carvedog. I don't know of any areas where you can rent alpine snowboard gear. In Whistler you can get in touch with Prior to demo alpine snowboards that they manufacture, but you would need to supply your own boots (and bindings, I believe). You might want to start by searching for, and purchasing some used boots. One this site, in the forums, check out the classifieds. You could post on WTB for used equipment that you are looking to purchase. I would also suggest performing searches on eBay for gear. Search "keywords" might include words such as: alpine, carving, racing. I would suggest that you purchase a new set of alpine bindings, as it is critical that you utilize bindings that you know are not likely to break on you. Bindings break when they are worn out. Bomber, F2, Carve Company all make good bindings. Boards- used gear on eBay or great deals on this site's classified forum. I love riding in hard boots, and I bet you will too.