terekhov Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 thanx, bosco! did any spring contact took place when flexing the boot max forward? can you post the photo of boot max flexed forward - to look at how spring placed in that stage. seems that I will need some pant protection coz I think they will be chewed in and out by spring in action Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arnaud Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 here is my system, totaly integrated in the boot shape. Nothing over pass behind the boot. No risk to damage pant, no risk to touch the snow on backside turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linus Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 I need to get a pair of BTS... :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 resurrecting this thread to get some ideas goin. I got my BTS and I think they're a little more bulky/heavy than necessary and am considering trying to machine some for Head boots. This is not intended as an insult/attack/dis on what Fin/Bob/anyone else have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 have fun with those if I had to choose a bomber product that I would not want to live without it would be the BTS yup, I said it, the BTS is a bigger deal to me than the TD2! I do like TD2s don't get me wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhD Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Does anyone know if there's a good reason not to invert the moving upper part (attached to the boot cuff) so the attachment point is below it instead of above? Seems like this would reduce the angular travel of the spring strut, which bears on the back of the cuff on my boots in the neutral position and will be tilted further forward as the boot flexes forward. It also appears that the neutral position could be a bit more forward-leaning this way. I haven't drilled holes yet. Gotta pick up some bolts first so the gratification can be nearly instant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Hmm, Assuming you are talking about simply turning the 'Upper Case' upside down, that's a very interesting thought. I'm also anxious to hear any feedback from the Engineers here. I love the BTS, but don't like how it pivots from one point (the top) which puts an angle on the Upper Case under certain conditions, which in turn creates interferance with the Main Shaft and the Springs rub the Upper Case. I would only have to guess it would still act the same with the pivot point on the bottom but rock in the opposite direction ?? You may be on to something though, I'm going to have to 'mock it up' to try, when I get a chance. Let us know what you come up with ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhD Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 I put one together with the upper body or "car" upside down and mounted it on my boot. The strut rocks away from the boot rather dramatically since the car pivots so much. I notice (after mounting it per the instructions - taking my life into my own hands) that the car rocks quite a bit that way as well. The strut doesn't swing out when flexing forward, but the car pivots a lot on it's mounting pin and the strut swings noticeably when leaning back. THere's a lot of slop between the car bore and the strut, which may be needed to keep the sliding joint from binding. Seems like a decent slide bushing would be a better approach. Or fix the car to the boot at two points and add a pivoting bearing in the car for the strut to slide through so it won't bind. Some of the motions and constraints seem kind of un-engineered. It does make the boot feel better in my garage! The "garage" version looks better from this perspective, but I'm not too keen on the attachment of the car to the thin wall of the boot cuff with screws tapped into the aluminum "L" car. Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawndoggy Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 I put one together with the upper body or "car" upside down and mounted it on my boot. Dennis would love to see some photos of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jishaq Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 Pins were made from 3/16" stainless bolts cut to length. The top one is longer. Hey guys, I'm getting ready to do this to my Stratos Pros. Curious what holds the fabricated 3/16" pins in place? Is the pressure exerted by the holes enough? If so, they must be a PITA to get in! Thanks, -Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 Hey guys,I'm getting ready to do this to my Stratos Pros. Curious what holds the fabricated 3/16" pins in place? Is the pressure exerted by the holes enough? If so, they must be a PITA to get in! Thanks, -Jeff Not really, a hammer does the job. Just make sure when drilling with a 5mm bit to kinda move the drill inside the plastic to open it up a bit. I wouldnt use a 6mm bit btw, you want that pin really snug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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