1xsculler Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 On a 20.5 board I have no sole out with my size 28 (291/312mm) UPZs at 50/50 but up where the heels bulge out I have considerable heel out when checking with a square. To have no bulging heel out I'd probably have to be 60/60. I am not doing nor trying to do extreme carving so is the bulging heel or the sole heel what I should be paying attention to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 (edited) Let's start here. While a pure 90* doesn't have to be obtained... I think ~85* should be obtained, only ever so slight overhang. This can be slightly tricky with UPZs as you typically have to push the heel bail block almost as far forward as it can go. If you are using bindings with little to no riser 60/60 sounds about right. I used TD3 SWs on a Bomber plate and was able to move down to ~57/~54 on a 20cm wide 185 Donek REV (I aimed for 85*, ever so slight overhang.). Edited March 27, 2017 by lonbordin words-n-stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pokkis Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 How much gap, or no gap, is very personal. I'm riding on 90 degrees or more due on softer snow otherwise is braking or making grip to loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drschwartz Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 What bindings are you using? Something flat, or TD's? Elevating the boot minimizes the problem and also helps with edge pressure as long as your boots are stiff enough and leg strength good enough. I ride narrower boards with 45-50 degree angle for racing. If you are on purely flat bindings, a rider like the gecko plates from Apex might help a lot. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 You need to really shift your toe/heel blocks towards the toe-side with UPZ boots. With my 28 UPZ, I have the Bomber Sidewinder Step-In heel block as far forward as it goes for the front foot. It blocks access to one of the 4x4 mounting screws. The toe block is in the middle set of holes and what I'd consider a 'normal' position. With that, I still have my toes offset inside the toe edge of the board when I have the binding rotated far enough to keep the upper calf buckles above the heel edge. The rear foot is easier to center with the way the sidecut flares the board. One thing you didn't mention: Are you booting out now? If not, don't stress over it. I'd still offset the blocks towards the toe side to get equal leverage and overhang for each edge. The Fuego test pictured above is awesome, just keep the gap the same to the board on either side, or get fancy with some specific angles to the ground if you feel up to that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 1 hour ago, corey_dyck said: With my 28 UPZ, I have the Bomber Sidewinder Step-In heel block as far forward as it goes for the front foot. It blocks access to one of the 4x4 mounting screws. This is the most annoying thing with UPZs and TD3s and like you inferred there probably needs to be an even further forward set of holes for the heel block to screw into which would be even more annoying. Ah well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 There's nowhere left to go! I spoke with Fin a few years ago about moving the Intec ears forward, but that would negatively affect the really long boots. Plus, it would drive a new die ($$$) so that's unlikely. Fin suggested I buy some real boots. I told him his dog was ugly. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 3 hours ago, 1xsculler said: I am not doing nor trying to do extreme carving so is the bulging heel or the sole heel what I should be paying attention to? Well, the real question is;; How far up on edge do you ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 (edited) mis-take post. Edited March 27, 2017 by erazz Wrong post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 6 hours ago, corey_dyck said: There's nowhere left to go! I spoke with Fin a few years ago about moving the Intec ears forward, but that would negatively affect the really long boots. Plus, it would drive a new die ($$$) so that's unlikely. Fin suggested I buy some real boots. I told him his dog was ugly. I recently moved to UPZ RC-10's with TD3 step-ins. Love the fit on those boots (so I think Deeluxes wouldn't fit me as well), and step-in bindings are so much nicer that dealing with toe bails, but I'm size mp26, and even at my current angles of 50/47 I can't get the toes of the UPZ's to the edge of the board (while the heels overhang the heel side edge), and that's with an 18.5 waist. I was wondering about the feasibility of a different/alternate set of Fintec heel pieces on the TD3's with the ears offset forward as an "aftermarket purchase" but I guess it's already been mooted then rejected. Bummer. Haven't tried the non-stepin / toe bail version in the TD3's, does this issue exist with the toe bail version as well? Would switching to the toe bail TD3 allow me to center a mp26 UPZ between the edges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 It occurred to me that I may have hijacked this thread. If anyone feels that way, PM me and I'll move my questions over to a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 With the standard bindings, you can flip the blocks around so you can go really small. You lose the nice hard stops that hold the bail up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jburk Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Can the heel block be moved farther forward than the step-in heel piece, so that the boot can be shifted more towards the toe edge? On the front foot I'm at the end of the forward adjustment range for the step-in heel and still fairly biased towards the heel edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonbordin Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 54 minutes ago, jburk said: Can the heel block be moved farther forward than the step-in heel piece, so that the boot can be shifted more towards the toe edge? On the front foot I'm at the end of the forward adjustment range for the step-in heel and still fairly biased towards the heel edge. For boot sole length 260 and under, (for Raichle/Deeluxe and Head boots, this is a 22) you will need to follow these instructions- Instructions-> https://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/TD3FittingtoSmallBoots.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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