snowboardfast Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 I am thinking about running inward cant on rear foot to make me get forward more . My front leg is getting tired more than the rear. I am running outward cant on the rear boot with both bindings flat. I am very bow legged. I noticed that all of the Pureboarding riders run the 7 degree cant on the rear foot . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Toe lift on the front foot resolved my tired front leg. Note that if using UPZ boots, even with a 6-degree toe lift, your front foot is still tilted 3.5 degrees towards the nose. With a flat setup your foot is tilted about 9.5 degrees towards the nose. Reference: http://forums.bomberonline.com/index.php?/topic/41870-upz-boots/&page=4#comment-432939 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted January 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Yes I have decided to stay with my upz boots after riding my Deluxe yester day. I was riding with 3 on the forward lean on the front boot which is less than upz and leg still getting tired. I did try 4 and not foward enough so I must be getting forward more which is a good thing. I used to ride 4 all the time a while ago. working on getting more active with my front leg to start turns harder . I would not know how to put in toe lift at 6 degrees on a Burton or nidecker binding? I might be able to do this on my phiokia binding? the deluxe boots are hard on the top of my foot and the upz fits my foot better. so if I would go 6 degree on the rear I would be at 15 dergrees heel lift in the rear? I will see what I can do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelc Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 40 minutes ago, snowboardfast said: I noticed that all of the Pureboarding riders run the 7 degree cant on the rear foot . Obviously part of the pureboarding thing is that everyone is fitted with identical legs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 1 hour ago, snowboardfast said: I would not know how to put in toe lift at 6 degrees on a Burton or nidecker binding? That Burton 7-degree cant would probably work nicely! Can it be rotated to a bit to get less canting and more pure toe lift? Sorry, I don't know how they attach. Running a 6-degree toe lift in the front is pretty much regarded as crazy by anyone that I've spoken with, but it feels right to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 My philosophy for my setup is that I want to get comfortable just standing there in my living room first. Then I experiment a bit after listening to what hurts on my body during/after a day of riding. If I want more weight on the nose than I can comfortably do, then I shift both bindings forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted January 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 I know several riders that run 6 degree toe lift . Also I noticed on my torino Olympic tape that 1 of the racers was running a lot of toe lift on a Burton binding. I might have to try this again? I will have to make a shim to go under the binding out of plastic cutting board. I suppose I could buy the Burton 7 degree cant for the race plates. I did not try moving bindings forward yet? I have never been able to load up the nose of a board which is why I was wondering if the Pureboarding riders run the cant in the rear to make it eaiser to do this as you can still get back if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teach Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) Success depends on a lot of things, like what your current angles are. But if your front leg is getting tired, why load it up more? (Rhetorical question) Check out Beckmann's sequence for setting up bindings at beckmannag.com under "hardboot snowboarding" for a thorough approach. Nothing wrong with 6 degree toe lift. It depends a lot on boots (not only UPZ) and their size. Intec heel compatibility makes huge ramp, probably more with smaller sizes, par for the course. 6 degree toe lift on binding reduces that a little, as Corey (and Beckmann elsewhere) points out. How to accomodate bowlegeddness probably depends on finer details of anatomy. Is it a hip joint issue? Knee issue? Ankle issue? Lower leg curve? Upper leg curve? Foot? What works with other footwear? Edited January 31, 2017 by teach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 As much some riders, as they get slammed by I'd say go get a pair of Catek plates. They are adjustable in a very fluid sense in both lift and canting. Then, at least, you can readily tinker with the various angles until you find that 'sweet spot' that works for You. Since most everything else on the market depends on 'fixed' chunks/blocks and widgets to achieve variation in canting, and then toe/heel lifts, it's an awkward bit of alchemy to stack the parts 'just so'... You may be at it for years with the other bindings. But, with Cateks, you'd probably find the 'right' stance within a day or two, depending on your methodology, and whether you've someone (someone who understands how stuff works) to ride with you and give you feedback. 9 hours ago, corey_dyck said: My philosophy for my setup is that I want to get comfortable just standing there in my living room first. Then I experiment a bit after listening to what hurts on my body during/after a day of riding. If I want more weight on the nose than I can comfortably do, then I shift both bindings forward. In and of what Corey posted here, I'll (again) add that doing the 'carpet ride' on your set-up at home should also include a full-length mirror, and a pair of short ski-poles (to keep you balanced when tipping up on edge). If you can see and feel what's happening, you can then make a better guess at what needs to be adjusted. Of course, seeing yourself in motion, on the hill, has that benefit, so get yourself on video, and watch it carefully for incorrect timing and/or body position. A fellow full-cert instructor and friend of mine also is bowlegged, but more-so along his lead leg. His stance in hardboots features a slight toe lift (probably 2* or 3*), and and outward cant of 2*. On his rear binding, he uses 5* of heel lift, and a 1* outward cant, and runs a fairly wide 21" stance even with 58* angle up front and 55* at the rear ; He uses Cateks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelc Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 I will second the Beckmann recomendation. As Beckmann has said carpet carving is one step, but if you are straight lining on a very gentle slope, or typically a cat track in a relaxed state and the board is running straight, then you have attained nirvana. If you have to have muscle tension in order to run straight then you have to consider hard where the pressure is on your boot cuffs, ankles and feet, and what changes you might have to make to reach "neutrality" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracan Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 (edited) Quote That Burton 7-degree cant would probably work nicely! Can it be rotated to a bit to get less canting and more pure toe lift? Sorry, I don't know how they attach. Unfortunately, they cannot be rotated. The Burton wedge is mounted at a given, non-adjustable angle. Only the binding itself can be rotated on top of the wedge. This is my main beef with the Burton/Ibex/Speed bindings: no way to achieve toe lift, unless you manufacture the parts yourself. Edited January 31, 2017 by Aracan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 6 hours ago, Aracan said: Unfortunately, they cannot be rotated. The Burton wedge is mounted at a given, non-adjustable angle. Only the binding itself can be rotated on top of the wedge. This is my main beef with the Burton/Ibex/Speed bindings: no way to achieve toe lift, unless you manufacture the parts yourself. It's pretty easy to make small shims to go under Burton toe/heel blocks. There is also the unicant disc, which you can rotate in any direction and adjust the angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 My front leg is hurting during heelside turns on my calf and right above the calf behind the knee. I think part of it is more stretching is needed which I am doing and something with set up in the boot or binding. I am working to get lower and tilt the board up higher in the turn. I will be riding tomorrow and might make a change or 2 to the set up to see if it will help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 35 minutes ago, snowboardfast said: My front leg is hurting during heelside turns on my calf and right above the calf behind the knee. I think part of it is more stretching is needed which I am doing and something with set up in the boot or binding. I am working to get lower and tilt the board up higher in the turn. I will be riding tomorrow and might make a change or 2 to the set up to see if it will help? So, adjust away from pain, your front foot needs lift in the toes to raise them, or, just adjust the adjustment on your boots to flex more upright, I'd adjust the bindings and fine tune with the boots. But the more forward your front boot the more heelside turn you have, I prefer a great heelside, trees hurt. If you lean the rear foot more forward it will alleviate the pain from the front foot, somewhat, (the legs are connected), catecks are oh so good at dialing in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted February 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) So here is what I did and it worked. I stood in my current setup on the carpet and noticed that my front leg was going backwards behind the boot shell if I wanted to push on the shell for heelside so I adjusted the front boot for way more foward lean. i also noticed that my knee was off center to the right so I put in outward cant in my front boot which lined it up better. i also am running outward cant in rear boot as I am very bow legged. I also added more foward lean to the rear boot and used the gray toungue to make it stiffer. All of this made me get foward more and took the stress off the back of the front leg. it felt real good today on the hill and I was carving better. I don't think I need inward cant since i am very bow legged? the gray toungues keep my feet more comfortable as they don't collaspe when I tighten the buckles down. Since I am running way more foward lean I don't need to try to flex the boots foward as much because I am already in the right place. I can crank the buckles down more which really works well on the front foot which helps to keep my leg in the right place and provides more power when needed. I had a great day today and will continue to give this new setup a try. i think i improved my turns a lot by doing this. I am riding the Virus upz boots which suposedly have a stiffer race cuff than the other upz although they do make a boot that is stiffer than mine as well. Edited February 2, 2017 by snowboardfast add more info 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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