barryj Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 Alright.....I'm about to pull the $400 trigger on a 2017 pair and have some questions for you guys running them I wear street shoe size 11.5 but ride modo 28.5 in Track 700's comfortably Do I need to downsize the Burtons for a performance fit like in hardboots? Any other suggestions or concerns with Driver X ownership?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 Burtons tend to have a very short sole length. If you're spending this kind of cash I would try them on at first and see what feels best. FWIW I wear a 10.5 street shoe and have always used a size 10 Burton. The Flows that I have have the hybrid strap and the combination bugs the hell out of me because my toes keep on hitting the toe cap which doesn't feel good. I think that with the Fusion straps this wouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted November 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 Thanks Erazz I'm on the way to try a few pairs on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 I hear they pack out a bit, best to get a snug fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 ^++ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted November 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 The sales dude said my shoe size measured 11.5. I went with size 10 and no heel lift.....in their footbeds They also aid the liners are moldable....you guys done that?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 Size 10 seems accurate. I'm using US11.5-12 in street shoes. Went with US11 for DriverX. Can probably go with 10.5, but i'm unsure and I got a nice deal on US11. I buy my hardboots with molding in mind. But I buy softboot without molding in mind. Mean boots should be tight, but rideable without molding. After they break in - you should be fine. It's possible to mold liner if you feel extra pressure on your foot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted November 30, 2016 Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 14 minutes ago, barryj said: ... They also aid the liners are moldable....you guys done that?? Heck yeah! If you read online they say that they will eventually mold themselves to your foot. After 10 days of riding my first pair I gave up and went to a shop. Night and day difference. Just make sure you use toe caps and top spacers to make sure you don't get pressure points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryj Posted November 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2016 Got it! - "Use toe caps and top spacers" .......... will do Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mig Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 (edited) On 2016-11-30 at 4:29 PM, TLN said: I buy my hardboots with molding in mind. But I buy softboot without molding in mind. Mean boots should be tight, but rideable without molding. After they break in - you should be fine. It's possible to mold liner if you feel extra pressure on your foot. Ok, this is something that I have never understood since I started lurking on here many many years ago. This is not directed at you at all TLN. Your post just made me think of it (the part about not molding your liners). This forum has been a lot more open minded towards softboot riders and equipment in the last couple of years. But that equipment has often been looked at as inferior equipment with bad fit and response and etc... Softboots and bindings have changed a LOT in the last 10 years. And in addition, if most hardbooters who are riding or giving a try at softboots would spend as much time and money to modify and fit their sofboots (and bindings) as they do their hardboots, I am pretty sure a lot of that prejudice would disappear. I ride Driver X boots since the first year Burton came out with them on the market. But I pretty much never rode them stock. Always molded the liners, added J-bars, plastic tongues, heel lifters/wedges, foam padding, velcro, or powerstraps where and when I needed them. My last pair is the 2014 model (not all years are equal in stiffness). Never used the stock liner. Put in and remolded my trusted Scarpa powerwrap style liner with a J-bar on the outside of my ankles, and added a custom powerstrap. No heel lift, no pressure points, no frozen toes. Just total comfort, and the response and fit I am looking for. Edited December 2, 2016 by Mig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Well, I get what you're saying, but I'm not trying to make my softboots as stiff as hardboots. Same for riding. 1. You can carve well on softboots, but carving on a hardboots feels like cheating after that. I'm not trying to make my softboots fit like hardboots. 2. I got one pair of softboots, and that's what I will use for freeride/splitboarding/etc. I don't want then fit as tight as hardboots, I'd like to stay warm. Hardboots: I can unclip em after several runs, and won't ride 8 hours a day(Uhm, thanks). While 10 hours(and more) is possible in softboots. 3. Liners for hardboots come un-molded, so you have to mold em. If you can ride non-molded, boots are too big. Softboots always come pre-molded. I got malamutes before, bought 2016 Driver X last year. There're no plastic tongues from 2016. But I've added J-bars(get them free from B). Cannot comment how they ride, since I was riding hardboots last winter. (I've sold my softboots bindings last year. Bought new pairs this summer). I *might* mold em, if it fits non-comfy, but it feels good for carpet-riding. I won't be adding any extra velcros or straps(Might give it a try though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxlanaudiere Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 On 12/2/2016 at 1:20 PM, TLN said: . Liners for hardboots come un-molded, so you have to mold em. If you can ride non-molded, boots are too big. Softboots always come pre-molded. Always come pre-molded ? where did you get that from ? None of my last 3 softboot's intuition were pre-molded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 I suspect they mold them once in the factory so the inside is shaped like some theoretical proto-human's foot, and the outside is shaped like the inside of the boot that it fits in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 ^This Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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