FTA2R Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Hi All, I've had 2 pairs of Burton Race plates for maybe 10 or so years? I don't know how old they were when I purchased them or how many times they were used. I've only used them a handful of times. Previously I would have never considered replacing old equipment as long as it was working ok (they are), but I'm a bit older now and am OK with spending a few bucks to have more peace of mind. What is the thinking about this? Would it be a wise or unnecessary expenditure to buy a new pair of IBEX (or whatever the ones that are molded on the Burtons are called)? Have there been any known cases of bail bindings releasing? Also, what is the recommendation for an entry level pair of step ins. ***I am a lighter rider*** (+/- 150 lbs) - so I don't think I need the Bomber bindings. thanks, Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
workshop7 Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 I have had two failures with the sole block on Burton plate bindings in my time. In both instances, I was lucky not to get injured. After the second time (2006) I stopped using them all together. I do like those bindings and trusted them. However, after my experience with them, and given the age of yours, I recommend getting something new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibrussell Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 For your peace of mind you could replace the front bails. If you find them buy two sets so you can change out in five years. I'm 190# and push hard and have only cracked three of plastic levers in the last 20 years ( two of them needed to or I would have been hurt). I still use a couple sets that I've done nothing to. keep checking levers and bases(never seen them crack but heard of some cracking) for any signs of cracks. ib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted June 21, 2016 Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Given the image you present with your avatar my only comment would be " How lucky do you feel " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTA2R Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 workshop7: sole block of the actual binding? meaning just the part you step on? I'm not sure I'm following..... ibrussel: this would require just buying new (Burton race) bindings altogether, right? lowrider: that's funny. i was able to remove that pic but not able to upload a new pic...perhaps a known issue / bug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
workshop7 Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 The metal block that holds the bail down to the main plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Sorry to see you pic removed it always brought back to mind his many great lines. I guess in this politically correct world the image was probably too tender for our protected lives. Good luck with your decision on bindings. I would vote for metal. (Bomber) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) Also, what is the recommendation for an entry level pair of step ins. ***I am a lighter rider*** (+/- 150 lbs) - so I don't think I need the Bomber bindings. If you don't want to use Bomber, look into F2. The F2 Intec RS should work for you, or if you want a little stronger/stiffer look into the F2 Intec Titanium or Titanflex. Blue Tomato has some pretty good prices right now. Edited June 22, 2016 by Neil Gendzwill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibrussell Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 You can find the front bails off and on. Ibex or nos. Put an ad in wanted and ask if anyone know where. ib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowboardfast Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 (edited) You can buy toe and heel bails for your bindings off this site from the Bomber store. I ride a couple of older pairs of Burton race plate on my all mountain boards only. I ride phiokia bindings on my 2 metal race boards as the bindings are all metal construction and have 6 mm bails instead of 5 mm bails. I am also riding a plate on the race boards and want a stronger binding for that. The new Ibex bails are heat treated to flex better and be stronger. it is recomended to replace the Ibex bails after 50 days of riding to be safe. I weigh 185 and have not broken the burton bindings. Since you are lighter than me you will be putting less strain on the bindings. I also have a pair of bindings on each board for 2 reasons- I don't like having to take bindings on and off all the time and the bindings will last longer because I am putting less wear and tear on each binding. if you want to keep riding your burtons inspect them regularly to see how they are wearing. I do this with all of my bindings. Edited June 23, 2016 by snowboardfast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRAZZ Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Plastic degrades over time. Sun exposure and mechanical stresses accelerate this process. This is the reason you have date stamps on plastic parts (see image below. Plastic does not necessarily get weaker. It gets brittle. This means that it can fail in new and exciting ways. My personal preference is no more than 5 years for "mission critical" parts. Do people still use older boots and bindings? Sure. Is it a good idea? Last I checked, emergency room visits are far more expensive than new bindings. My $0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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