Pat Donnelly Posted December 5, 2015 Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) Much neater job than I did as I drilled one of my boots from the inside out and broke a few drill bits during the process. You should be able to use a center punch or small drift pin with a hammer and knock them out. Drive them out from the outside in. Edited December 5, 2015 by Pat Donnelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted December 5, 2015 Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 Looks so easy! If using plated screws, you might want to put something on the threads to prevent rust, Teflon tape, anti-sieze, loc-tite. Will make it easier next time you need to remove, like when a cable breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted December 5, 2015 Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 Your new heels will centre the screws where they need to be once you have driven out the old t-nuts . Even if you still want new boots your repair job is still sound as far as I can see from your pictures. New t-nuts and it will look better than the before pictures. Post a new picture with the new t-nuts and everyone will be wondering what the fuss was all about. Be sure to retighten after a few runs or put the boots in the freezer overnight and then retighten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted December 5, 2015 Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) You're fine Andy, punch those t nuts out, get new ones, reassemble and ride. Periodically during the day, check for your heels for movement and pull the liners at the end of the day and check the t nuts and see if they are pulling through, more then likely they will be fine. If they are pulling through, you would have seen that in your periodic safety checks. To play off of Beckmans chain repair, this failure will often be more effusive than explosive On a more important note, anyone riding intecs should be pulling their liners post ride to let the boots dry out and help prevent rust from forming, though I very rarely do this. I should heed my own advice, though I do check them every now and again This is especially important now that the T-nuts are a critical part of the boot/binding/board interface Edited December 5, 2015 by big mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longboarder09 Posted December 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 What tools do you recommend for punching out the T nuts? I tried using a hammer and rubber mallet and a metal rod to drive the T nut out, but it doesn't seem to budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted December 5, 2015 Report Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) I have used a hammer, a big nailset and patience. The most important part is that you are not dissipating any of the hammer energy in shell deformation or movement, supporting the boot side of the heel with a pipe or a 2x2 board will assure this. Just make sure your support is not on top off the fastener you are removing. Judging from the amount rust in you pic, it may take some severious whacks to get the nuts out. Don't be afraid to put some energy into it, and lose the rubber mallet What tools do you recommend for punching out the T nuts? I tried using a hammer and rubber mallet and a metal rod to drive the T nut out, but it doesn't seem to budge. Edited December 5, 2015 by big mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdahbonz Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Thread rebirth...anyone know what size t nuts are used for this job? Was doing some boot maintenance and noticed a slight gap in fintecs on my track 7's. Used pb blaster on the screws couple spritzes waiting for some penetration. Started to try gradual torque and snapped 3/4 on one heel and 2/4 on the other. Worst time of year to happen but after examining the screws, better than out on the mountain. Also discovered frayed cable that was about to go. Just looking for right drill bit dimension for replacing cleanly with new tnuts and hardware. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) 5mm t-nut. Fintec heel uses a 5mm x 20 mm screw. Original plastic heel used a screw with 5mm threads but the shoulder of the screw was 6 mm. They won't work on the Fintec heel. Start with a 1/8 bit this makes sure the hole is centered then move up to a 3/16. Once the head falls off just punch them out of the boot. Careful not to generate any heat. The plastic will melt faster than you realize. Edited February 3, 2016 by lowrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) M5 T-nuts for Intec heels http://www.alpinecarving.com/parts.html M5 / 20 mm bolts: standard for Intec http://www.mcmaster.com/#92290A242 Edited February 3, 2016 by Pat Donnelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powdahbonz Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 You're the man, Pat. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Donnelly Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Gotta give credit and thanks to Scott Firestone http://www.alpinecarving.com/parts.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerwoman Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Advice is always dangerous- but- there are enough well-experienced replies that it appears an ounce of prevention is called for. Salt water from the walkways around the lodge, as well as sweat from inside the boots makes short work of cheap zinc-plated hardware. Anti-seize/ moly paste/ assembly lube are all names for the same indescribably messy goop that we use very sparingly on motorcycle parts during assembly; it makes things much easier later on. Taking the soles apart and lubing them, and installing stainless hardware if you can get it when you buy your boots is probably the best idea, then take them apart and replace the hardware once a year. I actually used to do this. Using the right-size screwdriver also helps. Next time you're at the auto parts store, pick up a little tube of fine valve grinding compound and keep it in your toolbox- dip the tip of the screwdriver/allen wrench in the grinding compound and you'll be amazed at how well it will grip rusted, partly stripped fasteners- one of the best tips from an old mechanic I ever got. Then don't put them back in. And please, please, please, always remember that WD-40 isn't lubricant!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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