General edge tuning q's and tool q's

[SingleWhiteLine]

I've recently started tuning my own edges and I have a few questions from any of you more experienced than I.

1) My new coiler was delivered with a 0 base and 90 edge. I've ridden it that way for all of January and February to see if I liked it before making a change. I do like the 0 base but I don't know how to tune for a zero base angle. The most shallow angled base guide I could find is a 0.5 degree. Does anybody have tips on where to find a zero base angle guide?

2) The file I've been using to change edge angles is a very fine almost finish grade file that you might use just before using a diamond stone. It takes a long time to make an edge change or to remove heavy gouges from the edges. Can anybody recommend a courser file to make bigger changes? I'm no metal work guru but I'm assuming just about any file I can get from home depot will work and it doesn't need to be ski/snowboard specific?

3) What base and edge bevels do you all use for general carving? I'm thinking of moving to a 0.5 base (0 if I can find a guide) and a 1 edge and then maybe going up to a 2 edge if I think I need to.

cheers for the input.

SWL

[teach]

I'm an amateur here, but have a few things to say:

1) you can't really tune for a 0 degree base edge. It's level with the base by definition, so you can't take material off just the base edge without either taking it off the whole base or making it no longer level.

if you want 0 degree base you need a base grind, then just polish and leave base edges alone. In fact, leave base edges alone period, except to smooth out burrs and nicks.

2) the files you get from Home Depot tend to wear out quickly. The ski-tools places (racewax, tognar, etc) have better files in several coarseness grades, for $8 - $20 or so (carbide for a lot more).

Don't try to remove heavy gouges from edges. You lose too much edge that way. Just remove the case-hardened parts with a stone, then again with a stone, polish so it doesn't dig in or drag.

3) Here on the East Coast a lot of people seem to use 3 degree side edge, or at least 2. That does get chewed up quickly if you have only a small base bevel and rocks in the snow like we do. But it's all over the map with some swearing by 0/0. It seems like a common approach is to start at 0.5 degree base and as the base edges get chewed up, slightly increase the bevel to get fresh edge material until you can't stand it, then get a base grind and start over. You could do the same with side edges.

[ti_knee]

1) You want to try a .75 or 1.0 base bevel. That will reduce some grabbiness particularly on the flats. I would recommend a shop for this unless you want to invest in something like a Beast or SVST I find the SVST worth the price! The black plastic jobbies aren't good.

2) You really need a proper file from a ski shop. These will cost about $20 and are diamond cut. The HD files will chew the crap out of your edges. The good ones will make a nice even sound and will cut really nice shavings. Can't describe nice any better! The reason you think you need coarse is because of lack of sharpness. Go really easy with the real file. Use a sharpie after every few light passes so you can see what's being taken off.

1 base is common with ski racers. There is no 0 angle... that's a base grind. 2 side would be pretty common although I haven't been carving that long. I stuck with 1 side for a year and will be trying 2 soon. I ride out west so it's usually pretty soft snow. I'd check what racers and other HBs use in your area. A good ski tuning shop is really a great place to start looking for advice and gear.

[digger jr]

Make sure you use a sidewall planer which will remove sidewall material so when you file you will only be cutting on the steel edge. Files don't like cutting through sidewalls and you will have to work way to hard to remove much edge. Should be a fairly light pull with the file. Read through the Tognar site, they have great instructionals. Agree with teach that a good file is a must and be sure to diamond stone the rock dings before you run the file down the edge and your file will last a long time. I do 1* base and 2* side.

Edited March 2, 2013 by digger jr

[Hans]

I use 0.5 base (SL) 1.0 (GS) and 2.0 edge. Works like a razor with tooltonic for the edge. The base I do with a diamond stone a few times (very light pressure) with normal base side file guide.

Edited March 2, 2013 by Hans

[pokkis]

I use same angles for base as Hans, and naturally with Tooltonic, and for sides due i'm lazy bastrard i then use 97/3 degrees.

[SingleWhiteLine]

Thanks for the tips. All good ones. I started working on my used board first until I got the technique down, now I feel pretty confident working on my base and side edges on my new board.

What about base structure? Is there a way to put structure on your base by hand or is that soemthing people just do when they need a base grind in a shop?

[Mike T]

I do 1 base, 3 side. 0 base drives me nuts when riding on mellow to moderate pitches w/ grippy snow. I like grippy edges for early morning spring frozen cord.

As far as structure goes, I tried using a riller bar as described on the Tognar website, and never ha good results. I bet it works better on softer bases but as all my Coilers had a nice hard sintered base... I get the structure by taking it in for a grind.

I used to do my own edge bevels, but Race Place here in Bend, OR does such nice work that I pay them now

[digger jr]

Ski Visions base flattener with med ruby stone. A good workout, but I really like it .You end up with a linear structure, which is usually just fine in Utah, and is great after you do any ptex repairs to smooth everything out, not a bad true bar either. Also you can sand with a piece of aluminum tubing + silicon oxide? sand paper ( sandpaper from Tognar). Major base flattening is still a stone grind,but I haven't had to do one yet.

[Hans]

Standard base structures: handbrush (nylon, horse hair, steel). Professional structures only by machinery, for example with RED CREEK special structure roto brushes (they are from metal).

Do it yourself: Ray's Way Base Flattening Tool

Edited March 3, 2013 by Hans